nipper

Did you swap a turbo with a turbo? No vacum modulator, its is computer controlled tranny, unless you shift it manually. Try shifting it manually to make sure it is mechanically OK. Does the engine rev out in every gear or is it just the 1-2 Shift. Check all your wiring and harnesses. nipper

You need to add a servo or solenoid to the drivers door. i had the hatchback and used to tell people i had a power door lock, not locks. I've added solenoids before its not that hard to do. nipper

So the mobile 1 blinker fluid i just bought isnt necassary? hehehe nipper

I would be very suspsious of this. IF (and i mean if) they were truly replaced by the last shop they should be good for another 120K miles. It sounds like this car may not have had an easy life. Thats a lot to go wrong in less then 100K. Usually the oil leaks start between the 1 and 2 timing belt change. I would do the axles and unless you have clouds of smoke or obvious oil leaks or loss i would let the leaks go. To tell if it is a leak clean the engine then check it again after a few days.If all those seals were rplaced, then only cam seals and belt should be needed, nipper

my civic blew it at 149,950 miles ... loved that car too, that was before i discovered subarus. That was a 79 civic, so they never really fixed the issue. My best freind had a civic with 130K on the cartold him about it, so he bought a new car (a sooby) nipper

Do corvairs count? nipper

A knock light isn't going to help you with anything unless you can adjust your timing on the fly. Your best with a boost gauge and a exhaust temp gauge. As far as mounting them; i am on a list for a HD mounted in the car, which has a remote mounted face plate. People have done wonderful things using bondo to make mounts, it looks and works like clay, is easy to shape, and easy to work. i have been looking for a pod for a legacy for ages but no matter what list i go on no one has used one, or can recomend one. nipper

I wouldnt jump to conclusions. Brakes get hot, that is how they work. The convert mechanical energy to heat from friction. Brakes can get extreemly hot, In automotive terms, heat to make steam is a low temperiture. A single stop can make brakes that hot from speed. Only way to tell is to get the wheels off and have the brakes inspected. You should learn how to do your brakes yourself. There are times that a shop would sell you a caliper then take the time to replace/clean the sliders. nipper

If it is not going away after the engine warms up, take it back to the dealer before the warrenty runs out and have them fix it. The fix is replacing the two driver's side pistons. You need to stand your ground or they will tell you its normal. nipper

Jack up the wheel and try to shake it. There should be no play, if there is any play, its a wheel bearing. The sound you describe sure sounds like a wheel bearing. nipper

BAD BAD BAD ! If you have a steel rule (not wood) run the rule along the surface and see how much damage you have done. If i was you il'd take your heads to a machine shop and have the surfaces checked. Depending upon how deep a gauge you put in the head, you may have ruined the machined surface. Best case scenario is that they may have to mill a few mills off the head to even it out, worse case scenario is you need to replace the head. It sounds like it may be saveable. Those surfaces need to be as smooth as class, and dead flat. NEVER use anything aggresive on a machined surface to clean it. nipper

Are you talking air movement or air temperiture. The newer refridgerant used in new cars is alot weaker then older cars and takes longer to cool down a car. this is a commone complaint. Also if you close the outer dash vents you will got a lot more air movement out of the center vents. nipper

ive been beating the drums saying that overheating can cause a HG failure, as well as a HG causing over heating. also been stressing that regular antifreeze changes are just as important. i just never thought of a slipping belt against the waterpump as being the catalyst for destruction. Learn something new everyday. nipper

Do you have a button someplace that locks the center diff? Otherwise where did you get that info. Audis and other cars with full time AWD can manually lock the center differential with the push of a button. nipper

link tells me 401 not found. Otherwise i would jump back in the discussion. nipper

thats what i was wondering nipper

which problem, the tensioner? i dont know without looking at the parts book to see if an older P/N was superseeded by a newer P/N. nipper

sure quote me instead of the original poster . i stand by what i said, last sooby engine i took fully apart had hydraulic lifters. nipper

Well if the shudder was not there before the change of the PS pump, i would start looking there. Did you replace the hoses too? nipper

Is this an aprils fools joke? heheh if you read the "do not use" it gets kind of scary. nipper

The threads are weaker then the bolts, so there is no need to replace head bolts. in a iron block with iron heads you replace the bolts, since the bolts do stretch and yeild a bit.In a aluminum engines this is not a worry. nipper

it really depends where they the cam lobes are positioned, and how many valves are opening and closing. Murphies law is no matter what you try, they will move at some point. nipper

When in doubt, everything goes back to where it came from. Unless your replacing the lifters, i would put them back in there happy homes. Same goes with all the other parts, except the cyl head bolts. i usually get new lifters if the engine has a lot of mileage on it, so i cant answer you there. i would strongly suggest NOT cleaning them. Use the pattern in the manual (Haynes) for re torqing the bolts. This is a critical step and has to be done as stated. You do the cam seals, main front and rear seals. re seal the oil pump. Replace the water pump and the timing belt tensioner. Of course the timing belt gets replaced. Rule of thumb is if its buried and prone to wear, you replace it while the engine is out. Use new radiator hoses and do an oil change (oil gets damaged from over heating too) The surfaces for the HG have to be so clean they are almost sterile. Hope that helps. nipper

Actually a challange for my wallet. The 2nd dr visit wnet really well. A lot more work was done then i was told (eek). i am terrified to twist after the first failed surgery..... sooooo off to the mechanic. i did check the coolant system, no air bubbles and full(yay), no burning oil (yay again) but i smell burnt antifreeze on the outsdie of the car (boo) nipper