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Everything posted by nipper
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In a nut shell it is said that if you overtorque the bolt, you will damage it and it has to be replaced. In an aluminum engine you with a substantial bolt being threaded into an aluminum block, it is very hard to overtorque the bolt and damage it. What you WILL do is strip the threads in the block and damage the headgasket. I know working as an inspector/rebuilder for a defense contractor (man i have a busy resume) if there was any signs of torque twist on the bolt it was scraped. I would never reuse any bolt no matter the application that "took a twist". In some applications, that is one of the reasons for using a washer, the second being to evenly distribute the load on the bolt head. In a HG application, you do it in steps to compress the HG in a controlled manner, and to avoid warping the head. If someone could give me the size and grade of the bolt, i can give you the max torque that bolt should be apllied (assuming steel threads). Subaru reuses the head bolts. I thought from previous posts this was settled sheesh nipper
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Unfortunitly you need to know the old owners original address the car was registered too to access this. When i bought my car used the original owners had moved three times. The original addy was on the titel, but i didnt realize that untill i mailed in the title. Thats the one fault with the site, buy a used sooby and do0nt have all the original info you cant log in to get the cars history. If somone knows a way around this please share nipper
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Oil
nipper replied to hockeylvr93's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
No such thing as too many oil changes. With dino change when you feel comfortable, but with synthetic i would go about 7500. Also the other purpose of an oil change is (or was before jiffy lubes) was to give a quick inspection to the underside of the car. One should peek under teh car at least once between oil changes (with longer intervals) and make sure everything is how and where it should be. (damn thats an evil grin) nipper -
Yes they are both open, but the front axle runs at a faster speed then the rear axle because the front wheels have the abaility to steer the car. This is what can overheat the viscous coupling (in a manual) and cause torque bind or total failure, if its a mismatch or a constantly differnt axle speed differnce. The fluid will never get to cool down. In an automatic since there is no viscous coupling, it can be more forgiving. nipper nipper
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You could get around the mistake of leaving the the car in the AWD On mode by using a latching relay. This method when releasing the switch or shutting the car off, the relay would unlatch. Another possability is to modify the switch so that it doesnt operate as on/off and only as a momentary switch (this too would work with a latching relay, press once for on, then once for off). This would require you to latch the relay again manually on startup. Since you have a visual indicator, you dont need to know what position the switch is in to tell if the AWD is fully engaged or not. nipper
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No more then 1/4 inch diffenrce in circumfrence between tires (which is not a lot). You can have a new tire shaved to match the others, but with just one year on the tire i dont think there would be much differnce. If its a major size differnce you can burn up the 4wd. the automatics seem a little more tolerant of tire differnces (in the same tire faimily) then the manuals. The manuals once the damage is done its done. The automatics will give you lots of warning that things are not right. nipper
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Could they have replaced the front pump? reverse requires a higher line pressure then the forward gears to engage the band. Low line pressure will make you loose reverse. Does the car shift normally otherwise? If you found somone to just replace the pump you found a great shop. Most will just sell you a tranny at that point. nipper
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i've owned two corvairs, im without one right now. i have owned a bug with an autostick, and as soon as i can do things again (in the fall) im getting another vair, only this time a 4 speed and rag top. i have no idea how they could be called economy cars in thier hayday with that two speed automatic, talk about poor gas mileage. nipper
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Reverse gear is a straight cut, non synchro gear. It whines and its noticable. I cant imagine it grinding and not poping out of gear. They may ocassionally whine when shifting into reverse from a forward gear if you dont give a little time for things to stop spinning, and may ocasionally clunk into gear. Does this describre anything you are hearing? nipper