nipper

did somone sell you a bridge too. if not i have a nice one with a river view i have never ever heard of flushing PS fluid on a PS system. GM doesnt have the best racks in the world, so they were just trying to blame it on you instead of the car. You should go well over 100K miles in a sooby before having an issues. Usually its just a leaking "O" ring. nipper

Timing belt procedures should be since it can be confusing nipper

doesnt anyone use the search ? sheesh, yesterday there was a gabby post on this too. You cant over ride it, as its built into the ECU, short of disconnecting the two VSS sensors..... but then you will have a bunch of other things being upset. It's built into the chip, and i havent seenanyone make a chip for soobys nipper

well now you know who IS NOT going to fix your car. nipper

Looking at this, all saftey equipment must work. Saftey equipmnet is what holds the car together, aids in stability, visability, and control. Rear wiper is visability, as some cars have windowsthat a bear to see through. The factory thought it was necassary as a saftey item. Tinted windows are a saftey item, but not in the way you think. Police hate tinted windows, hence why its on the fail list. They cant see how manyt passengers are in the car or where thier hands are if the tint is too dark. Technically the headlight/tail light covers are illegal, but i've yet to see anyone fail on them. It has always shocked me how sometimes on this list that people would argue with me how driving on a bald tire is safe. State inspections don't always guarentee the car is safe. IN NY the brake inspection is only required to pull one front wheel. not all four. A car is a peice of heavy equipment, and can easily be lethal at as little as 15mph to a pedestrian. State inspections are even more important now that cars are getting very high mileage intervals between oil changes. When an oil change was 3000 miles, in theory the car got a mini inspection every time it whne on the lift. Now with jiffy lubes, and long intervals a car can go a very long time without being looked at. nipper

This can be one of two things. you can adjust the latch mechanisim, or you may have a broken spring on one or both of the hatch strikers (if you have them.. like the wagons do) You can find out easily by taking off the inside trim panel and make sure nothing is moving when the hatch is slamed, but it sounds like to me it may just need an adjustment. nipper

This is a typical mode of a sensor failure. When the engine (sensor) is cold, the guts of the sensor make electrical contact. As the car warms up, the poor connection "opens" and the car dies. There arent that many sensors that will stop the car dead in its tracks. Next time it does it, check to see if you have spark. No spark its the camshaft sensor, if you have spark look at the crankshaft sensor. Also a bad collant temp sensor will stop the car cold too. If you have the haynes manual, and an analog gauge, you can test the snesors when the car stalls. i would run the car in the driveway untill it dies. The reason there arent many of these things in junk yards is that they run til they die, or they get totaled. i have a hard time finding them in junkyards too here in NY. nipper

Do you still have the old sensor? put it back in the car for a tank and confirm that you are still getting 25mpg. That means at least three tanks of gas to get a good reading. Have you reset the puter? nipper

would be nice to know what you have so we can help you ...like model year dirvetrain .. the little details.... nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55670 Sounds like you have a bad Viscous Coupling ..... nipper

you killed your VC and the clicking sounds like your center diff is very very unhappy. The way the VC works (simplified) there are alternating plates inside the VC with holes in them (front-rear-front-rear). They are in a visous fluid that gets thicker as it gets hotter. The plates spinning at differnt speeds cause the holes to shear the fluid, which in turn causes heat, then a you have a mechanical connection. Since this never really occurs at the extreem for more then a few minutes, all is happy. By running on a flat it was at the extreem for more then a few minutes, and it over heated. Now its fused together. nipper

From what i read on the ebay site, even they tell you that you have to modify the mounting brackets for the JDM fogs. Drop the seller an email and if its who i think it is they may be able to tell you.... but i know you need to do some metal work, its not a bolt on. nipper

Many many threads here on Gas Mileage. Search for them you may get more insight. nipper

Yes it does but is much more rare on manual trannies. Unfortunitly once it does rear its ugly head on a manual tranny, once you confirm the tires are all ok, its usually too late. No fluid to flush, no solenoid to replace, it's all sealed. And torque bind becomes much more rare on 1997 1/2 and newer years. It was a mid year change that they redesinged (damn cant spell today)the valve seat. It seems the probelm runs as a design fault from 1995-1997 1/2. It can happen on any year as parts wear, and tires get mismatched, or not changing the tranny fluid. nipper

The sensors on the wheels are wheel speed sensors, not VSS sensors. The automatics have two VS Sensors (for the awd computer) one for the front axle speed, and one for the rear. The manual tranny has one, and thats the one you need. nipper

hehe try a 1988 GL hatchback with a crosswind. Those skinny tires and the suspension gemoetry made that a handful on a good cross wind. Unfortunitly due to the suspension geometry on the subaru and the boxy design of any station wagon, your going to get pushed around. If it is a truly windy day, crack the windows on the downwind side of the car. The car doesnt get blown as much as it gets pulled by the lower pressure on the opposite side of the car. By cracking those windows, you reduce the pressure differential, hence you reduce the pull on the car. This works better on some cars then others. nipper

Mt 1998 Legacy was hit while parked. What i thought was a 150.00 repair was actually 1500.00. If the insurance company has a "prefered" body shop, take it to them (of course check them out with the BBB first). The prefered shop here was well known, and they handled the estimate, all the paperwork, and not one thin dime came out of my pocket. The body shop even arranged for and paid the rental. Now if you want to talk about the nightmare im going through with Travelers, when the same car got rear ended the following july and totaled the following July .... It really all depends upon the insurance company and the who is at fault weather its a easy ride or you have to call out the hounds. nipper

Torque bind is not just an automatic issue. It is less frequent with the manuals, but it does happen. The problem is when it happens on the manual, they is no tranny flush or failed duty c soleniod to repair. Its more common on the automatics only because it seems like not many people change the tranny fluid regularly (which happens on a lot of cars). The biggest cause is miss matched tires or under infalted tires. Once it starts to rear its ugly head there is nothing that can be done (if the tires all match) aside from replacing the viscous coupling and/or the center differnetial. The viscous coupling is not servicable. Out of all the torque bind threads here i can only recall less then 10 that had that issue. nipper

Have you tried a better brand of regular gas to see if it goes away? nipper

i disagree with the mechanic that worked on the car. It sounds like (no matter how well intentioned) that he was throwing parts at the car. If you have an eroded waterpump it would run hot/over heat all the time. When the car overheats, do you have any heat? Check to make sure the radiator is full. Make sure the cooling system is bled of all air. Those are two of the minor causes. The HG on that car usually has an external leak not an internal one (but does happen). With the radiator cap off look for bubbles while the car is running. If no bubbles have the radiator checked for exhaust gasses. nipper

i really dont think there is anything in the subaru engine besides the timing belt and water pump that i would say needs to be genuine subaru parts. You would be surprised at how many of those parts are Genuine Subaru parts without being subaru parts. Car Mfg dont always make their own bearings, cams, pistons etc. They are made by suppliers, and usually your buying parts from the same suppliers without the markup. Ask them who they are gfetting thier parts from for the kit. Then we can tell you if the kit is good or not. Also it has a warrenty, so thats reasuring. Also check the local BBB. nipper

care to share the details with me The only thing i would suggest is if your car is more then 5 years old you may want to replace the pump to restore full pressure. nipper

He says rarely it doesnt come on, which tends to make me beleive the solenoid is having issues. What i would do is find the connector(s) for the duty c solenoid, disconect them, inspect the wires (espescially at the tranny) reconnect them. Just disconnecting and re connecting is usually enough to clean them up and see if the problem goes away. If it came on after hitting a bump, ild be suspect of a bad connection. Here is a question, does it do it when you start the car cold, hot, or every start. nipper

it's may be on that pdf, but its 84927J, the license plate bracket (holds the lights) is the pic i got from SubaruGenuineParts.com i imagine need the handle, springs and hardware that are on your pdf. nipper

i think you may have a duty C solenoid failure. Thats what its starting to sound like. If you didnt have the flashing light i would say flush the tranny. The flashing light needs to be investigated. If its a duty C failure it can chew up your tranny, and nothing you can do about it untill the duty c solenoid is fixed. i am assuming all your tires match, have the same wear, and same inflation..