nipper

i think the trick is to buy it here, then drive it like a vacation, then import it. Another trick is to buy a 1yo sooby and it then is a used car. This is done all the time via the factory purchase plans for BMW, mercedes, saab and volvo. The trick there is that you drive the made for US car over there and put miles on it, then the factory ships it here, and it comes over as a used car. You save a bunch of money by doing this (i hear). Here is an idea, write subaru and ask them . Worst that will happen is that they say no. Also look at this site: http://www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/importation/menu.htm http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/mj/import.htm your not the first one to do it nipper

This is a problem with jiffy lubes and such. The go by the auto mfg for the OE set of tires when they service a car. if a car is over 4 years old odds are they dont have the original tires on them. Every year as tire technology gets better, it seems tire pressures change. Many times iive driven out of a jiffy with 4 flat tires, to go back and tell them to read the tire not the door jamb. Always go by the tire nipper

hehehe you remebered actually they were playing games with my body in ways i wont describe so i just stoped them. Figured the back pain was more managable then the other issues nipper

You can also try a junkyard nipper

thanks maybe i misunderstood nipper

so you need to get the rest of the guts to make it work nipper

you dont bleed it. Under your car on the passenger side floorwell should be a hose hanging out. You can either blow compressed air up the hose, or use a clothes hanger or something to go up the hose and clear it. Be careful with the coat hanger. You wont puncture anything, just dont force it. The hvac box is passenger side behind the glove box i do beleive, and runs under the center of the dash. nipper

water pump is under the timing belts towards the senter of the engine drivers side. Your heat problem doesnt make sense to me, i have to think about it. nipper

Technically no you cant. What you CAN do (and this is a common fix) is take the drive shaft to a driveshaft shop (thats what i did). for 120.00 4 years ago they replaces the universal joints with ones (i think a ford ranger) that fit perfectly. It worked ofr a very long time. Otherwise you will have a heart attack when subaru tells you the price. nipper

a striped or broken axle is a possability, as i have had iit happen to me too, just it didnt make any noise, and the post specifically sites a noise, though its worth a check. nipper

are your radiator cooling fans on all the time? nipper

Out in wyoming, Utah, Colorado Idaho Nevada to name a few. http://www.summitdaily.com/article/20050812/NOTES/50812008 Oddly the article points out subarus specifically Thats where the starter of the thread is from. 85 octane is still available in some states. At high elevation 85 octane is the same as 87. The country isnt flat you know. nipper

The timing belt is in a very clean protected area. The printing can look as good as the belt was installed 90,000 miles ago. Thats not an indication. Make sure all the fluids are toped off. remove the covers and run the car, see if you find the noise under the covers (if its there) nipper

dont do it again, if it didnt fix it the first time it wont again. No filter to change in the tranny. What happens if you manually shift the car? nipper

no play is normal; zero none nada zip nil:clap: nipper

Just replace them, as you cant re-create a brake system in your garage to reproduce the conditions the hoses are under. nipper

Did they say oil pump or are you assuming they meant oil pump. Has anyone checked the tranny fluid level? There is a pump in the tranny, right behind the torque converter, If this pump dies your dead in the water. Torque converters do go but its rare. Either way the tranny needs work. Find a GOOD tranny or mechnaic shop that is wiling to diagnose the problem and just not tell you you need a new tranny. It sounds like your tranny is fixable if its either the pump or Torque converter. This is the only reason aside from loss of fluid where the tranny just dies. nipper

Ok your going to test the power brake booster. i was going to post this farther upbut saw you already replaced the master cylinder. The two can mimic each other, so you usually rule out the booster first. With the car off pump the brakes 10-15 times to exhause all the vacume. Put your foot on the brake pedal, then start the car. The pedal should go towards the floor. Repeat this test a few times. Inspect the rear calipers, you can have a stuck caliper causing the heating by draging the pads. Also the brakes are not split front rear. They are dignol as they have been in most cars for the last 15 years. Left fr/right r and right frt/left r are connected to each other. Another thing to look at is to replace the flex brakes lines. They can fail internally and you would never know it. nipper

cool, thats getting saved nipper

are you talking about a headlight or a fog light? nipper

You need a locksmith for this. let him diagnose it first as a key problem, and also let him make a key. SUbaru dealers arent all that great key makers, and have as much training as a home depot key maker. ALso a locksmith will kepp trying to make the key untill he gets it right, where subaru will sell you an gnition lock. What is this steering wheel unlock thing you speak of. nipper

Man this thread is full of alot of odd information Where does your theory come from. The calibartion you have correct, as i used to do pump calibration. The inspecions are attempted to be done in warm weather to rule out fuel density issues since lab conditions are 68 degrees F when the pumps are tested at the manufacturer. the calibration is done three times to rule out human error. What they are testing is not so much the pump itself, as that gallon is fixed. What they are testing is the flow meterwhich actually reports the amounts of gallons pumped to the display that you read. The flowmeters when they were mechanical were tough to dicker with (you had to change gear ratios), so they were checking for wear. Now with the electronic flow meters, its real easy to play with the numbers and not pump a full gallon. This is where its important to know your car. You sort of know at 2/3 empty the car takes about x gallons. it doesnt matter if one gallon or 1000 gallons is the sample size, its always the same test The test can be started at gallon on the counter so therefore every gallon is the same. there is no diffenrce between startting at 26,007, 26,010, 26,015 gallons on the counter. it all comes out the same. Acording to your theory, you are royally screwed if you get an oil drop of 250 gallons of home heating fuel, since its the same style pump, and the same people calibrate it. nipper

You've got to be kidding. First off wyoming is a beutiful state and i would love to live there if i could find work. i am tired of living in a suburb of NYC. i have spent many miles out in WY, and the #1 reason for poor gas milage out there is the avg speed is about 90. i know in my sooby, once i cross the 72mph line, my mpg start to drop drastically. at 65 i used to get 32-34 in my 2.2 legacy, at 80 i would get 25, and 100 i would get about 18. Obviously you have never tried to go shopping for food in WY, where depending upon where you live, can take a tank of gas to get to the store and back. WHen i spent a fall out there (and fall is about 2 weeks, i was there from sept-dec) i was using 2-3 tanks a week due to where i was living at the time. i didnt complain because its a blast to drive out there where tripple digits are not unusual. When i would ride out there on the bike from NY in the summer i would drop from 42mpg to 28 at 110 mph in wyoming. The place where i would piss thourgh gas was indiana and nebraska, with really bad gas. i havent had my outback on the highway since i bought it for any good long run, so i have no idea what that gets. nipper

grrrrrr next out comes the rolled up newspaper. Ok have you flushed the tranny?

Alchol is a solvent, a mild one. Gasoline is a far stronger solvent. Alchol evaporates very quickly compared to gasoline, gasoline is the much more detremental solvent to motor oil. 10% is considered a safe amount that will promote no early wear, and the rubber and plastic parts can deal with it. anything as high as 12% or better starts doing damage. OE recomends nothing higher then 10% without modifications. ANy none gasoline fuel is going to promote faster wear on engines and fuel systems not purely designed for that fuel. THere was for a while LP gas powered ford rangers for the phone company out west. at 60K they would all need new cylinder heads, and then they would be converted back to gasoline. The phone company was expecting 120k out of the vehicals. i worked for an autoparts manufacturer and we would test the fuel system parts at 15% and the plastic ones would melt, where at 10% they were fine. nipper