nipper

Check all the vaccum lines, and vacum canister under the hood (looks like a small black ball i think). What has happaned is that for some reason you lost vacum or control button function. The system is vacum operated.The defrost mode is the default mode for saftey reasons. nipper

ABS does not work on ice if all 4 tires lock up. Nothing works on ice except studed snow tires. This is something that is stated over and over by car manufacturers and when ever abs is tested. Only thing that works on ice is studed snow tires. ABS allows the driver to stop the car more safley, not in a shorter distance. ABS also requires at least one tire to be spinning to tell the ABS computer thats omehting is wrong. If all four wheels lock up (ice) the abs computer thinks the car has reached a full stop and therefor does not have anything to do. The trade off made with abs for being able to keep the car under control is a longer braking distance. All this is assumed as long as one out of four four tires maintain traction, or keeps rotating. You still have to brake sooner, drive slower, and be more aware of your surroundings then on dry roads. nipper .

dont go to the dealer, but yes the front one is more expensive then the back one. There is another subby parts supplier that people swear by here, im sure someone will chime in. nipper

Welcome If your putting AF in the car use the premix. The AF smell, check all the easy stuff first. Usually the 2.5L blows a headgasket internally. My 97 OBW does the same thing your does, i just keep an eye on it, as its so minor i cant seem to find the source, and just keep a close eye on the temp gauge. nipper

OK you got me with that one.. Anyone? nipper

WELL what was it share nipper

See not all dealers are evil nipper

First question is it an auto or a manual nipper

The sensor can fail because its old. Nothing lasts for ever, and anything living under the hood is in a very harsh enviorment. You got almost 8 years out of the sensor, thats not bad. Again my pet peave, how many miles are on this car. i have no idea what you mean by one time use. All the sensors under the hood are constantly monitoring its asigned task. The knock senosor heres engine ping before we hear it, and tells the ECU to adjust the ignition timing. AN out of balance wheel can not cause the sensor to fail. The sensor is acoustic in nature. The engine is isolated by rubber mounts and really has far more vibrations and noises going on under the hood than an out of balance tire can produce. Knock sensors survive collision, pot holes, slamming of doors and the hood, a out of balance tire is nothing. nipper

i hope i dont start a war over this My 97 OBW (2.5L auto 182K) needs rear brakes and rotors. im not up to driving yet, so i have time. i thik by the end of Feb i will be driving again. i am looking for recomendations for the rear brakes as far as parts. The fronts are fine at this time. Normally i would upgrade all 4 at once, or the fronts first. I still wont be allowed to work on the car till summer (back surgery), so my mechanic will be doing it. Any suggestions? nipper

The only thing i can think of is an out of balance torque converter, not enough to notice, but enough to stress the flexplate. Something is not mounted parallel to the flex plate. i dont think its the flex plates fault, i think its the transmission or the transmision installers fault. You may have to bite the bullit and take it to another shop and let them diagnose it. nipper

You need to get your mechanic to check the radiator for exhaust gasses, preferably after its running hot. Overheating with no obvious cause and affect or pattern, unfortunitly, is one of those dreaded signs of a HG staring to go. nipper

Its from subaru. Its an official Subaru product used to (hopefully) prevent/stop external head gasket leaks. Its like chicken soup, it can't hurt, but 2.2s are fairly bullit proof as long as they are maintaned. nipper

ok with the car off, if its the yoke it will feel the same as the car on. If you got the last yoke from a junky, then i would suspect it. If you can bite the bullit, find out how much a new one is. The sterring yoke from a junky is like buying used brake pads. Now originally you said it did it when it was cold Which is it. Also if it is the yoke temperiture should have no affect on it, and if it did, it would be when it was cold. another thing if the yoke is visable, have a freind watch the yoke as you turn the wheel, When you feel it bind, mark the yoke with chaulk. Now the wheel should bind at the same place everytime you see that chaulk mark on the yoke. If its the rack it will be constant all the way through the turning of the wheel. nipper

i should have explained a bit better, i meant the speed sensors in the cars that dont use a speedo cable. nipper

You need to pull the tranny to replae the gear? Out of curiosty are we talking about the drive gear (in the tranny) or the driven gear (drives the spedo cable). Out of curiosity would the sme be true for a failed speed sensor? (just trying to learn here ) nipper

Really? i was wondering when that would start happening. Do you have the state DMV doing the inspections? i know that states that have private inspection stations they only made them get the single axle dynos nipper

even better that he will work with you. Hold on to this guy (if he does good work) nipper

ive never had JUST a timing belt replaced. Last time it was on my 98 legacy Timing belt the adjuster thingy water pump oil pump reseal cam seals Main seal and needed a gear ( i forget which) it wa$ about 750 becau$e two of the part$ were dealer item$. Usually when you get a timing belt done, you do the waterpump too at the very least, then if you have the money you do the seals, because they will leak sometime in the next 80-100K miles (depending upon your service interval). nipper

Dont you guys have emissions inspection in Ct? how can a shop in todays age of emissions NOT have a emissions sniffer? If they do inspections they have to have one, as subarus are exmept from the dyno emissions (i think everywhere AWD vehicals are exmpt) so they have to have a tail pipe sniffer (thats what you use if you dont have a hand held sniffer). Either they were pulling your leg and didnt want your business, or are truly a stealership. Even non inspection shops have sniffers nipper

actually thats a good price. if he does good work keep this guy nipper

NO that is usually held in with a clamp and one bolt. Remove those, use a little elbow grease, and it should come out. I havent seen the Subaru ones, but thats how it usually works. Also get a new spedo cable and housing (housing may be pricey so snag it from a junky). i suspect your cabel may have had something to do with the failure. nipper

Part of the problem is gum/dirt in the clutch pack and DUty C valve.. When you flush the transmission fluid, the new fluid takes seems to dissolve the gum and cure the problem. Its a 100.00 fix versues a possibly unecassary 1000.00 repair. If you dont beleive me, do a search on torque bind and look how many people had it go away with a tranny flush. Tranny fluid changes are amoung the least changed fluids in the car (followed by differnential fluid and brake fluid). nipper

Even fater you buy this car (if you do) the first thing i would do is bite the bullit and change all the fluids including the tranny fluid. This way you have a baseline for everything. Biggest cause of Torque Bind is dirty is a gumed up tranny with old tranny fluid. nipper

Sure NOW you tell us .... nipper