nipper

ok i wasnt sure by the description ... but yes. nipper

Well at least we know the mechanics of the transmission are in good shape ( no slipping, al the gears work). For some reason it sounds like in in auto mode its shiftng 1-3-4. Since he can get 2 manually, we know 2 works. if the upshifts feel like they are happening where they are supposed to happen, we can rule out a failed govenor. i'm begining to lean towards a TCU is bad, but i dont want to say so and have him get one and be wrong, unless he can get a cheap one from a junk yard. The only other thing i can think of is a failed 2nd gear solenoid in the transmission. The manual over ride switch, im going to guess, disables the TCU puter, or disconnnects it from the tranny, and allows the manual linkage to do its work. The manual shifting is purely mechanical and does not rely on electrics. The more i think about it, the more im thinking a failed solenoid. Anyone else? nipper

Being a long time member of SAE, i have to agree with them. Every manufacturer has thier own guidelines, as there are some engines out there (rotory) that purpously burn oil. GM has a redicoulously lhigh level of consumption that is acceptable. At one point anything more then one quart per tank of gas was considered excessive. A Short block the case and cylinders, crankshaft, connecting rods are reused, as they dont wear. Keep in mind they are thouroughly inspected and tested. Surfaces are re-procesed. With Subarus, i dont know if pistons are re used or replaced. The standard is to reuse the pistons after inspection. Subaru may replace the pistons with newer ones designed to reduce piston slap. Depending upon how old the car is, if there are enough cores around, it can be either a subaru factory rebuild, or a new short block. Either one is ideal. You have the right to ask what your getting. One person on this list got burned because the dealer rebuilt the engine, and he did not realize it. Make sure someplace on the paperwork it says that it is a subaru supllied engine if you or anyone else goes that route. Replacing the piston rings should correct the problem. They SHOULD be inspecting the cylinder walls, and hone them if its needed. They should be measureing they cylinders and the pistons to make sure they are within spec. The rings should be inserted in the cylinders and the gap of the rings measured to make sure its a proper fit. I may have skiped something since its been years since i rebuilt an engine, but that is what is involved in a ring job. nipper

it took me 2 weeks to completly burn off the power steering fluid that spilled from shanging the pump and hoses, so dont feel bad. nipper

Huh? That doesnt make sense with the original complaint, thet two trannies had torque bind in a row. That would only cause a noise, not an operational failure. Also if it was hitting it, since the driveshaft is always turning, you would have the noise all the time nipper

i use the haynes manual. ive been wathing ebay for a factory manual but they are rare. nipper

My OBW if the conditions are right, will go to 3/4 (which is still normal range) but usually is rock steady at 1/2, and in the bitter cold, it struggles to get that high. nipper

*nipper gets the glue* It should be a sticky, and Torque Bind nipper

There are two temperiture sensors. One is for the gauge, one is for the computer. Let the car idle long enough to warm up and see if the problem goes away. nipper

They can be wierd, and it doesnt take much power to run the radio, and lights can be deceving. Check the electrical system. if that is good check for spark and fuel. Also check all your cables and motormounts. If the turn is related to it, a cable that was eaten away may have finally given up. nipper

Just for giggles, talk to the dealer. There is some sort of extented warrenty on some years for head gaskets up to 100K miles. it couldnt hurt. look at this .. i realize its a year newer but may still apply http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50753 nipper

There are several reasons for not doing this, and none of them have to do with tranmission damage. You wont hurt the auto tranny by doing this. On a manual there is a chance that you may not be able to get the car back in gear. If you do do this, you loose the benefit of engine braking on steep hills, and can over work the brakes. Not only that, if the hill is steep enough, you would be amazed as to how quickly the car can pick up speed. Also there are two ways to avoid an accident, use the big pedla or use the little pedal. If you have to make an evasive manuver that envolves the little pedal, you may act by instinct and forget the car is in neutral, and precous time is lost. Beleive it or not, in most states it is illegal to coast in neutral (impossible to enforce unless they scrape you out of the car and see it in neutral). nipper

First thing i would suggest is a full tune up and go from there. Plugs Wires Air Fuel filters, PVC valve nipper

ok here is a wild shot in the dark... check the knock sensor. Physical inspect it, if there is any damage replace it. The only thing i can think of is a timing issue, and the knock sensor, which has given lots of troubles in the past, can do all sorts of wonderful things to the timing. nipper

Fix the spedo as i dont know if it ties into any of these problems. For now drive with the FWD fuse in to stop from causing further damage untill the tires are squared away, then do a tranny flush with the fuse out. Tranny flush may help the acceleration issue too. Cat converter would be the reverse problem. You would loose power as rpms went up, until the car wouldnt pick up speed anymore. Fix the spedo. Try shifting the car manually and see if there is a differnce. ALso these cars were not known for being all that quick off the line, so it may be normal, i dont know, i cant tell without driving the car. nipper

those 4 extra cylinders tend to help make a differnce too. nipper

What year is your car again? then maybe i have some ideas nipper

It is also possible that the alloy wheel is pourus. That happens on occasion, and i dont know if there is any way to fix that aside from replacing the wheel. Just something else to watch out for. nipper

hehe so you got the one used suabru where all the lights work. Does the engine clatter go away after 5-10 minutes max. Subaurs are known for piston slap, and i am wondering if that is what your hearing. Odd that the car died with just one plug removed. Well at least you know you have a very healthy coil . If you want to try it again, if you have another wire laying around and an old plug, you can put the plug to ground and minimize the exciitement. Granted you dont need the plug to do it, but it does make life easier. an FYI usually subarus are very picky about what plugs and wires they like, but since yours seems happy, i'ld let it go. If later on you have some sort of miss issue, thats the first place i would look. nipper

Its nice to see a GOOD dealer story for a change. nipper

That means that all the Recalls on the car have been rectified. nipper

Torque bind: Install the FWD fuse and see if it goes away. If it does it tells you the duty C solenoid coil is good. Check the tires and make sure all 4 match and have the same tire pressure. Flush the tranny fluid then drive in circles a few times. This will circulate the new fluid and losen up any gum. If this doesnt clear it up, then the clutch pack/bearings/Duty C Valve has been damaged and needs to be replaced. The drive gear for the spedo in most transmissions are easy to replace. Just follow the cable and the removal of the gear should be obvious, as it is usually a bolt or two. Have you tried manually shifting the car to see if the car is actually starting in third? When you rev the car in neutral does it freely rev up or lag. Is there a brake dragging? I'm thinkng maybe you have a cloged cat converter, or a collapsed exhaust system that is restricting exhaust flow. If the car runs well otherwise, this is where i would look. Depeneding upon how much your neighbors like you, a quick (and very noisey) test is to disconnect the exhaust system and see if it makes a differnce. I think anything else would have triped some codes in the puter. nipper

Also make sure the drain for the HVAC box is clear. That will cause the same thing. You can see a hose under the passenger side of the car, thats the drain. nipper

Again people think computers will give them all the answers when they forget the basics. DO you have 12 volts at the battery. Will the car start with a jump start. Will the car keep running when you remove the jumper cable or die? When the altenator goes bad, all sorts of freaky things can happen on the dash. Check your starting system. The computer could have picked up that code because there wasnt enough juice to make that sensor operate. You may have been on the verge of stalling out due to lack of electrical power. nipper

Welcome to the world of subaru Heatsheilds are popular problems but easy to fix. I dont know if you discovered the switch on top of the steering column yet. It turns on the parking lights and ONLY the parking lights. There is no indication it has been flipped from inside the car. Oil seal leaks are typical, and im betting that this car never had a timing belt change. If you keep this engine, or swap it, your still going to have to change timing belts, seals, water pump, since you dont know the history on either one. Good news on the antifreeze. Timing is not a problem, as Subarus if they are off one tooth they wont run. Have you done an oil change yet? That may clear up the noise your hearing. Does the noise match engine rpm, or go away with an increase in rpm. Pull the plug wire for that cylinder and see if it goes away. Normally its the pass side cylinder closest to the firewall that will spin a bearing, so i doubt thats the problem, but good to double check. ANOther way to laod up the engine is put it in drive with the parking brake on. Where exaclty are you palcing the stethescope. i do wish to congratulate you for you honesty and dilligance in making sure that you dont screw the next person you sell the car too. A rare trait these days. nipper