Speedwagon

Are both fans supposed to turn on when the A/C is turned on? Or is the secondary fan switched by temp with the A/C on?

Well it drove home to Denver from Boulder ok, so I think everything is fine. Except the radiator, which I knew was a problem before. Replacing it today.

With my Brat. There was a Suburban in the inside traffic lane of US36 going to Boulder today. Quite a dangerous spot to be, on a 6 lane limited access highway, with no inside shoulder. I stopped to find out what the problem was. And she thought it was out of gas. So of course I asked her what the gas guage was at, to which she replied it didn't work... I see. Anyways, got out the tow rope, hooked up to the land whale, and pulled it up a hill and over to the exit, then into the gas station. Found out that I REALLY need to replace my radiator, as I was pegged at the top for a bit(I was too worried about the traffic to notice this at first). Decided it was a bad idea to shut off the car while it was pegged, knowing it could cool itself by running. Then went and bought a new radiator for it. But I'll be damned if a 2,500lb Subaru can't pull a 6,000lb land whale.

Turbo engines ceased in 94, with the 1st gen body style for the US. 2nd gens did not come with a turbo.

The SPL you would need to break the glass, would exceed what your ears would be good with.

It is unlikely it was just a random engine. Whoever did the swap, would have picked a certain engine. Either an EJ22, or EJ25.

That's what I was thinking, wanted to be sure. If I'm careful with removal, will I need to add any oil to the system after doing so? Or will the JY compressor have all the oil it needs?

Fixable, or replace the compressor?

98 Legacy GT: Haven't used the A/C in a few years, since it stopped working on its own from a slow leak. So I fixed all the o-rings in the system. Pulled vacuum on it today, and it was holding. I then got R134a to charge the system with, a 19oz can(since the system specifies 19-23oz). Got it charged up, and it works... but the compressor is squealing now. The compressor seems to be sticking when the clutch engages on it now. I can visually see the compressor having issues, and I verified the belt is tight. When I rotate the compressor by hand, it moves, but not completely freely. Does this mean my compressor is toast, and I need to replace it? Or are there other things to check?

I'll check that out. Also, forgot to mention above: There are times when the CEL will flash for a few seconds, and other times when it keeps on flashing for 30ish seconds. And nothing I do seems to change it when it is flashing that long(accel, decel, steady). I don't recall ever feeling any misfires when it is doing this.

The PCV valve is new(only a few months old). I don't recall exactly when I replaced the plugs and wires, but they aren't that old, and I didn't go cheap on them. NGK wires, and NGK plugs. I forget exactly what plugs are in there though.

1998 Legacy GT, that came with the 2.5, but currently has a turbo 2.0 block(JDM 91 EJ20, no turbo, factory 2.5 NA manifold, wiring, etc). The problem stayed with the car, after I swapped the block, so I know it's not block related. When the ambient temp is cool, the car is usually fine. But once it gets warm out, like it is now, I get misfires when the car is hot, after I turn it off and let it sit for a short period of time. I have also gotten flashing CELs, more so when it is warm/hot ambient temp. I recently got a job delivering pizza, which has made the problem that much more noticeable(a lot of on/off with the engine fully warmed up). So I have to get this fixed. The coilpack tests within specs (~0.7 primaries, ~14k secondaries). Crank, cam, and knock sensors have been swapped out with junkyard ones, with no change in behavior. I have gotten codes for all 4 cylinder misfires, but no other codes present. The last one had freeze frame data of 177F temp, 87% load. It usually doesn't throw a code at idle when I fire it up, but it runs incredibly rough. I can often feel 1 or 2 cylinders not firing properly. If I rev the engine, they will start firing correctly, and then be fine the rest of the time the engine is running. I cleaned the IAC today, and put a new gasket on. Didn't change anything. I have also verified the timing belt position several times. Last summer, during 90+ ambient temps, there was at least one time the car would NOT start after sitting about 30 minutes. It fired a few times, but wouldn't turn over. After I let it sit for another hour or so, it finally started up, but ran really rough at first. This was on the 2.5 block.

Unless it's a California car, it doesn't have an ECU. All Brats had carbs. And if it has factory jump seats, it's 85 or older, so no ECU.

It depends on if it's factory original. My Brat was 1.75 at the cat, but the mid pipe was 2. It would be best to go out and measure before you order.

Updated the first post with the parts I bought. I haven't had any leaks since I did this.

If you are looking because yours is leaking, I would suggest just rebuilding it. It's fairly simple. I did a thread not too long ago on it, I just need to add part numbers for what I got in the thread.

You can order it through a dealership. It's a bit over $100 I think.

Do it when it's hot. If it is factory rubber, it might just break apart when you try to get it out. And for the gen2, there are only 2 seals left in the states for the dual sliding rear window. So be careful. You want the rubber to be as soft and pliable as possible to save it.

So as it turns out, I got a little bit of wheel rub when I accelerate, or take a turn, with a loaded bed. I had my bike in the back yesterday(~450lbs) to move it back home from the shop. With that much weight, the axles went to right around horizontal, after de-clocking the torsion bar. Rides pretty nice though, and it doesn't squat like it's a 500hp muscle car every time I go anymore.

You can rebuild it. It's just a couple of o-rings. I started a thread about how to do it a short while back.

So I got some rear struts off an 89 wagon, and put them on the Brat today. Ran out of time though, so I didn't have a change to unclock the torsion bar yet.

I'm thinking of remaking the trans crossmember, and using some Energy suspension poly universal bushings in the process. The trans is dropped 3" right now. Anyone done similar before? Seems like in the process, I can bring the trans up a little bit if it works well enough.

According to rockauto, it's not very clear if the EJ axle boots are the same as the EA82 axle boots(they throw the Loyale in on some of the Legacy parts). I have 2 EJ boots sitting around, and a busted boot on an EA82 axle. Does anyone know if they are compatible boots?

Got a good price on a new coil pack and knock sensor from the junkyard today. So far, it seems to be running better. But it might, again, be too early to tell. The old knock sensor was a bit rusty. Hopefully I won't be chasing this gremlin anymore.

The other week, when it got really cold, I found out I forgot to verify my coolant/water mixture. The car froze up a bit. So I dumped the coolant, and replaced it with a better mixture. Since then though, I've had a leak right by the water pump. Presenting itself as a drip. I figured there was a good chance that the gasket area around the pump was shot, so I just pulled it all apart and resealed it. As soon as I got coolant back into the engine, it started dripping again, before I even turned the vehicle on. I can see now, since everything was dry, that it is not coming from the gasket surface of the water pump, but is dripping from the bottom most part of the pump. This is a 1991 JDM EJ20G turbo engine. Is the water pump bad, or is there something else to verify? It has less than 100k miles on the engine, but it is also the original water pump(as far as I know) from 91.