Speedwagon

I will check that out, thanks. When the garage clears up shortly, I'm going to take the whole intake piping from my 98 2.5 and put it on this 2.2, see if that helps. As well as checking that shielding.

I swapped in another MAF, and the code persists. The wiring looks a bit sketchy from previous owners. I did get it to finally rev up though. After a bit of idling, a few starts, and playing with the MAF wires on the swapped unit, I got a full rev out of it. So progress is being made. I do still need to check for vacuum leaks. It's got a nasty exhaust leak that is filling up my garage, so that is airing out for a bit.

Changed the fuel filter. The output side had no noticeable pressure. The input side had some pressure(I attempted to start the car after disconnecting the pump to depressurize). Changing the filter allowed the car to start. Runs like crap, but it starts and idles now. This allows it to throw codes that I can trace down. What's that, a MAF code? You don't say...

Starting fluid got it to kick and start. Misfiring though, can't give it any throttle. I wish I knew where my damn spark tester was, it makes testing for spark much easier. And unfortunately, the 2.5 coil is different from the 2.2. Found the spark tester. Both sides of the coil are sparking. I think I'll replace the fuel filter, and see if that helps(since I'll be needing the fuel filter at some point anyways). It idled for a bit on the starting fluid, but opening the throttle killed it. Which is usually a fuel issue.

Ok, silly me. Manual doesn't specify that the adjustable valves are on later EJ22. 95s appear to be HLA. So moving on... Going to put it back together, and check for spark next. I'll try some carb cleaner after that(I can hear the fuel pump kick in, though I haven't verified pressure). Compression was 100-120 on all cylinders (but that's a cold compression check). No codes stored. The battery was dead for awhile when I got it. Timing belt looks good. Both cams line up, and the crankshaft pulley I assume is lined up, but I haven't taken the pulley off to verify. And I'm not sure what's up with the 4 holes in the pulley. (I'm more used to an EJ25D/EJ20G. Can I swap sensors on this 95 EJ22 with known good ones from my 98 EJ25D? Are they compatible?

I recently bought a 95 legacy as a donor car for my Brat. It doesn't currently run though. Cranks, does, but won't turn over. Spark plugs are OK, though they were dirty. Cleaned them off, checked gap. Plug wires are all within spec. Coil tested OK. A little high on resistance, but it was 35F when I tested it. Got 18K instead of 12.5K. Timing marks seem lined up. Fuel pump kicks on, though I haven't checked pressure. Cold compression test showed about 100-120 on all cylinders. Going to check valve clearance next. Any other suggestions? The battery was completely dead when I got it, no codes stored.

Thanks

Going through the wiring for this engine swap(1991 model year). Several wires go to a "check connector" as referenced by the manual. Is this connector ever used? It's a 22 pin black connector.

Got it fixed. Running much better now... like the ECU actually has control over the IAC! Thanks.

Yes. I just traced it to a break in the MIDDLE of the harness on the engine. Odd place for a break to occur, but the wire in the middle is definitely broken.

My 87 Brat with EA81-SPFI has been giving me an intermittent code 24. But when I would test it, I would get all the right readings. Finally this morning when testing, I move the harness enough so that it gave me a bad 12V reading. So now I know that the white grounding wire is bad. But it seem to be a shielded wire. Is it critical that it be shielded? Or can I replace the wire with a regular wire? The black/white 12V feed seems to be fine.

How much room is there in that 35 ohms? I just tested my 98 Legacy vacuum control valve(which, BTW, Subaru moved to the strut tower), and it tests at 43 ohms. Is that too much to replace an old SPFI control? edit: The initial answer is yes, a 90s EJ vacuum control valve works. It turned the ECS light off in the Brat right away when I hooked it up. I'll report back after a few days of driving around.

The vin is not on the sticker, and you can order them based on vin from the dealer. So my plan works, as long as I find a vehicle. And yes, federal regulations require the newer of the engine or vehicle emissions requirements. So it's not really a problem, it's the law. But as long as I can meet the numbers on the rollers, actual equipment, to me, is irrelevant. Also, using the 25d manifold won't work, because the injector size is not large enough for the turbo.

I have a 98 2.5, that has the EGR. But I have a JDM EJ20 turbo to put in the car, which does not have an EGR. The emissions place only checks the sticker under the hood, so if I were to order a new sticker, based on the VIN from a non-EGR 98, they wouldn't care then, and I'd still pass the roller test.

Which configuration of car and engine did not come with an EGR valve?

The brat is used offroad(as well as on the street, but the Legacy's duty is strictly street so). It has the dual range 5 speed in it, on toyota style 15" wheels running 205/70/15.

I have a '98 Legacy GT with 257k on the original 2.5. This engine is nearing it's end, and will be coming out before too long for an EJ20 turbo swap. I am then left with a 2.5 in need of a rebuild to be useful. I have an 87 Brat with the stock EA81, fitted with SPFI currently. Given this information, would you rebuild the 2.5 for the Brat? Rebuild the 2.5 and put 2.2 heads on it? Get an entirely new 2.2 or 1.8 from a donor car for the Brat? As stated, the 2.5 needs a rebuild to be usable, since it is burning oil on acceleration now(I get a nice smokescreen when I hit it). Lots of misfire codes being thrown currently too, as well as the crank moves fore/aft a bit.

Found my code 51 problem. The black/red wire came off and want connected anymore.

I'm hoping to find someone with a gen2 Legacy manual trans to swap the driveshaft with me for a short bit, so I can isolate this vibration. Anyone in Northern Colorado (Denver, FoCo area) that can help me out?

I'm hoping to find someone to swap with as a test. So far no luck.

Did you check the fuse? If it is somehow out of adjustment, moving the lever back and forth should trigger the lights.

$75 for the whole car? I may have to swing up there and take a look. If it's worth it, and I can park them down here, I'd part them out.

The stock ones are spot welded in. The shop I took it to was able to do it.

That is the first thing I check on aSubaru that stalls after starting now. Got me more than once.

No signs of torque bind. I haven't inspected the front. I'll poke around up there