the sucker king

Thanks for the advice, Here's what worked for me and It's simple enough, I put a punch on the base plate from under the car. Once the base plate came loose, the pump came out without much fuss, And I think the pump can be salvaged. The reason the pump needed to be replaced is because it was leaking badly between the body of the pump and the plate. the two pieces are held together by two screws, which had worked quite loose. It looks like I can replace a couple o-rings and put it back together. For a replacement pump, I tried to remove the pumps from two other engines I have and they both had the same issue. I have one more to try tomorrow and if that one is the same, I will have to just try to refurbish one and go with it. Oh boy..... Since this would seem to be an issue with the ea71 pump, would it be a good idea to use a little locktight on the screws that join the pump to the plate? Unfortunately ea81 pumps won't fit a ea71.

I didn't notice anything other than what was on my other cylinder heads.

all four bolts are out. Anyone got a trick?

That is a 32/36 dgev and it should be stamped at the base of the carb. For the most part, you should cap the loose ends. Your picture is kind of small, I can't really see what you are pointing out.It looks like you have the timing advance hooked up, It doesn't look live you have the pcv and valve cover/air cleaner hoses rigged up. Go to post #27 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95483 and rig them like the diagram McBrat drew up. If you post a bigger pic I could be more helpful.

I can wiggle it, but it won't come out. It is wiggling between the base plate and main body of the pump. If the base plate stays on how do I get that unstuck? Any tips? It's a 77 ea71, engine is in the car. P.S. HTKYSA says tap it each side with a mallet. Done that.

her ya go. This is from September 80 FSM

Actually I forgot, There is one other uber-hidden bolt. Look on the #1/#3 side of the block. In between the cylinders and just below them: see the recessed bolt? betcha that's it.

Make sure you have removed the bolt that held the oil pump feeder tube on the bottom of the crankcase. It joins the two halves. The case can be tuff to separate even once all bolts are out.

Thanks for that one. What diameter hose did you use for the middle piece to join the two sides?

I have one here and did what you asked, there is a little knock knock (sort of a double noise) twice every rotation. I would use it.

The 1980 models don't have that pump under the car.

yes, just one filter. What body style is your car, I'll send you a scan of the entire fuel system.

There is just the one by the pump. I'll confirm that in the factory service manual, but I've had 3 1980 subies and I only know of the one.

the scan from FSM that I posted was from 1980. I just checked a manual from 1978 and it shows air being pumped out of both valve covers, however there is no pcv valve on that diagram, both sides go to air cleaner. Another possibility? If air injection valve is stuck open, could that be another source of air going into the crankcase? The air injection is routed into the exhaust ports of the heads, but could wide open valve be introducing more air than heads can pump out, and the excess ends up in the crankcase? What about EGR valve, it is capped from weber conversion. Do I need to look into this? I have run other rigs this way with no consequence. Could the carb itself be to blame? That is, is the weber pushing more than engine can handle? Do I need to look at jetting? If some of these suggestions seem off the wall, I am just looking at where else there is air flowing into the engine. Maybe it would help if I snapped a photo of the setup and posted it? I suppose I still have lots of investigation to do, eventually with the help I am getting here, we will solve this. On a brighter note, the frustration I am having with this car has gotton me to work in earnest on another car, work I have put off for far too long.

No not 100% sure, but taking hose off of pvc valve, Valve is sucking and air is pushed out of hose prtty good. I have that stock F fitting on there, will clean it all out tomorrow. What else could this be. two engines now have had this problom with common manifold and exhaust. going crazy over this. As far as testing the system intact, I should be able to pop the air cleaner and stick my finger over the fitting to the 1&3 hose in the air cleaner box, and it should be functioning, correct?

just occured to me, If Oil cap is not sealing air tight, Is that drawing in air That would otherwise be drawn into 1&3 valve cover? just a thought. Still, if that were the case, It would also aleveate pressure in the case. So frustrating, I want to huck the car in the river.

To get the full page size, I just scanned it at 100%, uploaded it to photobucket and used the img tag. I don't quite understand what you are saying, but the bottom line is I have abnormal pressure building up in the crankcase, and the air does not seem to be moving as this chart from the FSM says is should. I think the two are related. If you are saying that it will only flow like this if everything is hooked up, at the very least I should be able to pop the air cleaner and put my thumb over the hole to the 1 & 3 side and it should be sucking, right? This I haven't t done, but will. Read the text over the picture as well, it will back up what I've been saying.

Sounds like this has already been hammered home, but for what it's worth, I have done two clutch jobs by dropping the tranny, once for ea81, and once on a gen one ea71. Both times big pain in the rump roast. Even if you don't "have to " do things like remove sway bar and exhaust, You will wish you did. I have done clutches since by pulling engine. much easier. But this is redundant redundant.

Today I ran the car with the exhaust unbolted from the heads (it is a one pisce custom exhaust), and the same thing, blowing OUT both valve covers at idle and any other RPM. So I rule out the exhaust being clogged or too restrictive. Here is the FSM page: Can anyone with a good running stock ea71 or ea81 pop the hose off of their passenger side valve cover while the car is idling and report here if it is taking air in or out of the engine? For that matter I would be interested with both valve cover hoses pulled, are they doing what they should. I thought about this. Is it possible that the rotation of crank and cam direct the airflow from the right to the left side of the engine? I bet it is. .............

Yes that is true. it reflects what should happen with everything hooked up stock. I don't know about the mod you speak of, the breather from the air filter to the pcv side is supposed to eliminate oil into the manifold as mentioned in my first post. Still, with the pcv side hooked up, both sides blow at idle. So it is not working right and the fact is, there is pressure inside the case. I am also familiar with these engines, I've torn down a few. Didn't meen to be snippy, I'm just trying to fix a problem. I will explore the exhaust possibility tomorrow, and I'm wondering if that is the case, what roll did it play in the engine I blew up? should have mentioned, this is an ea71.

It is not normal, and there is something to worry about as the pressure in the crankcase at speed is blowing oil out all over the place. At partial throttle, air should be taken IN on the passenger side valve cover. Only at full throttle should it be going out. That's according to the factory service manual. So try again. Now your talkin'. I didn't think of that. the old intake and all bolt ons etc were swapped over from old engine. I was thinking that, and clogged exhaust was not on my mind. It is an exhaust that was done up front to back at a local shop. All just custom bent pipe. Would it be fair to say if the exhaust is too restrictive, I should be able to unbolt it at the heads, run the car and the engine should behave normally (as far as air flow from valve covers)?

Hoses are clear. With both hoses removed from valve covers, both valve covers are blowing air. Why would that be?

Valve covers are clean, I will double check that the hose is not plugged. suppose it would be drivers side plugged if so. Hose is stock, I believe. Gonna go check it now.

go here: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/haynes/haynes-weber.html If that is not what you need PM me and I can scan step by step instructions, But I think that is what you will find by following the link. Good luck.

please help me figure this out. I seemed to have pressure building up in the crankcase of the engine that I just replaced, and again with the new engine that I replaced it with. The PCV valve seems to be working fine. The car has a weber on it and the PCV system is set up a little differently than stock. It was suggested that I need to set it up just as stock for it to work right, and I certainly am willing to change it, but I don't see why it's going to help in this situation. I just read the FSM crankcase emission controll system page and I understand the system. I have the passenger side valve cover hooked up to the air cleaner. I have the drivers side valve cover running into the PCV. To make it same as stock, I SHOULD have a line running from the air cleaner to a T above the PCV. At part throttle the passenger side valve cover SHOULD be taking air INTO the engine. Instead it is spitting air OUT. The other side is also spitting air out as it should be. Passenger side is supposed to only spit air out at open throttle when there is more blow-by gas. Both side putting air out indicates pressure, If it was all blow-by, I wouldn't think the car would run as good as it does. When driven at speed, the pressure is blowing oil out front and rear seals, which are both brand new. As far as the missing hose from the air cleaner to drivers side hose, according to FSM, That is only to releave pressure so you won't suck oil into the PCV when you take a hard right turn, So I don't see how that would help this problem.