the sucker king

hey if anybody is actually cutting a tree, please do it legally and get a permit through the usfs. there are several cutting areas. we use the red feathers one, i don't know about the more southern places, but it's easy enough to find out. that's all. have fun!

also if your struts are cranked all the way up you will wear the outsides a lot quicker. maybe it's a good idea to drop them down for the winter.

i should add that i did get 3 winters out of a set of studded cooper weathermaster II's, only rotating from year to year. it's good around here to have a flippable tire. i probobly could have doubled their life by turning them around. these hankooks are not so.

that's how it goes. just keep rotating them. when i lived in jamestown i went through a set of tires every year. now i change tires so much it's hard to tell how much i get out of them. i drive the same kinds of roads as you and i agree with what you said. i'm about to put studded hankooks on my wagon. i'll take them off in the spring. i got your pm, i'm gonna call you soon.

definately try what GD said. the fork tool almost always rips the boot. smack it right on the knuckle. resist the temptation to wack it from the top.

if your snowboarding, you should be concerned that webers are a little prone to icing in the right conditions (very cold and very wet) other than that i find webers way more problem free and are easy to get them to run right. i do have some issues with my weberized car backfiring because of all the emissions stuff that was removed. there is a low profile air cleaner that will clear the hood of an ea81, ive been told they don't flow so well. a lifted subaru can use the full size filter. even with these problems, the weber is the way to go. performance is great and they are way less problematic than hitachis.

p.s. if you need this for an ea82 wagon, i have a set of clips i'll sell you for half of retail.

they will work, but you need to buy clips to fit your gutters. the clips are rediculously overpriced at around $25 a set. you can buy them most anywhere that sells yakima racks. there will be a book there to match your model of car to the right clips, like when you go to buy an oil filter. even though they are overpriced, i do like the yakima rack stuff, i've used them for a long time.

the manufacture date is 6/77 and it's titled as a 77.

yes, i see your points. there are truths in some of the opininions expressed in BOTH our posts. i'll try not to take offence, and i hope you are not offended when somebody treats there own car differently than YOU would your own. i can promise you that i can keep this new wagon both looking good and running smooth as long as i care to. i will make you proud. and to me, the best reason to have a nice looking and running old subaru is to drive it. that's what makes ME proud. group hug?

here's some other perspectives to concider: this is the second reference to my intentions with this car being to use it as a "beater." to me a beater is a car you don't care about. you don't care if it's dented, etc. the freewagon i am retiring is a perfect example of a beater. i said this 77 wagon will be my daily driver. my wife uses the jetta as a daily driver for ten years now. she loves it, pampers it, and it is pristine. sitting in it after it's been cleaned, you'ld think it's brand new. it's not a beater just because it's driven every day. so this 77 wagon i do not intend to use as a "beater". they don't use salt in colorado PERIOD. they use sand and mag chloride. that plus a lack of salt in our landscape (no oceans) is why colorado cars such as this one which has seen 30 or so winters already look so good. thanks for the lecture, but i know how to take care of my cars already. to me it would seem compleatly ASSININE to NOT use this car in the winter. it's a freakin subaru! if it doesn't touch the snow it doesn't need to be a 4wd. old subarus are the cars that i love, and i need a 4wd in the winter because of where i live, and in the summer because of what i do. what do you want me to do, buy a 4runner? i suppose your answer is that it's fine for me to drive a subaru, just not a nice one. screw that. " "Essentially", he gave it to you," ......I don't know exactly what you mean here, but it bugs me. and this car in not rust free, read the original post. just so we're clear, my intentions with this car are to drive it this winter as is, and in the spring hopefully i'll be done with another project that i will put on the road. then the wagon becomes a project. the other project is a lifted hatch i have. when i get done making it nice, i'll post a pic here and you can tell me how it's too nice to take off the pavement! sorry if i seem a little touchy, i'm sure your a great guy and all, but i took that post as condisending. you have no reason to think i am an idiot, so don't talk to me as if i am. thanks.

sorry, nothin's for sale except my soul. this car is so much fun to drive, i'm lovin it! it's really peppy, probobly cause it's got 155/80/13s and im used to driving the 84 wagon with 205/75/14s. i'm having a great time with it, the only driving i've been doing really is driving my son to and from school. it's smooth as butter i say. woohoo. i've got the black jackmans ready to get mounted with some snowshoes to take me through the winter. thinkin i'll go 175/70/13s. studded cooper weathermasters. nothin but the best!

and shawn speaks the truth, the oil is from the freewagon, soon to be renamed "the wagon on fire"

summbyotch! i mean..... i have no idea what you're talking about.

i got this for $325 from a guy a couple doors down. runs really good, 130k miles, not much rust at all, even a good interior. it's my everyday driver for this winter. enjoy the pics you freaks! that's the original paint, too!

wow that's a lot of plans! more power to you! are you gonna run vegatable oil in this? i'm the guy up in lyons that talked to you about a certain 70's coup. i'm still interested if you are willing to give up the location. let me know. also if you want to run veggie oil i know some folks in hygene that could be of great help. you're in ward now? FREAK!! you gonna take on that viking guy at bare knuckle boxing and try to win his sword? oh my god, what if you ARE that guy??!! i'll watch your progress, i have a lifted hatch and i live less than 30 minutes from you. i am definately willing to help you out and i have loads of parts in my yard, drop a line if you need. john

wow that hatch looks amazing.

yeah i also have a car where the track is screwed on. doesn't look stock, but it could be a matter of year. some models didn't have the strips at all.

so they are glued on too? i use fishing line to get stuff like that off. thanks for the advice.

how do you remove the door/body bumper strips on ea81 style cars? i'm not talking about the wide black ones near the bottom, but the chrome and rubber ones that run right through the middle of the door and body. the rubber strip peels right of, but the chrome thingy is rivited on. so how do you remove without damaging the body?

one thing is your car might backfire with more unburnt mixture making it to the exhaust. but i don't think there is any emissions device that will make your car run bad if without.

i have it! send me an email adress and i'll send a copy to you hello rusty jones......goodbye rusty cars!

i have to do this, too. i was thinking of swapping the harness, so i'll be interested in what you run across. any time frame? also i've taken a couple dashes out and it's a pretty big pain in the rump roast, like ed says, it just takes lots o patience. i've never installed one, i would think it's harder. if your windshield needs replacing, do your dash swap with the windshield out. it will be much easier to get in place and you'll have way better angles to work with up top.

nothing i know of except the distributer, but i assure you the are all compatable. it really shouldn't matter.

hi dave, there should be just one bearing assembly that the spindle passes through. is it possible that your bearing assembly has broken given the illusion of two bearings? or maybe i don't understand? we are talking about the spindle, bearing, drum/hub, and not realy the rear axel "halfshaft", correct? what is the book you are refering to? i could scan what the factory service manual diagram for that model if it would help. you have a 1980 hatchback, the best car EVER made.