the sucker king

that's too bad, the suspension parts are easy to replace if you have a parts car or can get parts from a junkyard, if not it's certainly not worth repairing on an old rusty car.

std had single rounds but not on early models like 1980. on those eary models dls had the rounds (unless they came with an 1800, then they were square. i do not know what year the switch was made. geeky or what!!

it sounds like the radius rod (or leading rod if you call it that) got badly bent. and probobly the control arm too, if it moved far enough to pull your axel out. put the front of the car on jackstands and compare each side i bet it'll be some pretty obvious damage. good luck. are old subarus abundant in your part of the world (and just where is that)?

i saw what was probobly this same car a couple years ago at superupair in boulder. small world and we're geeks.

the how to keep your subaru alive book is awesome. your gonna love it i guarantee it. yes everyone should have a factory service manual, but i tell you the how to keep book is worth it for the drawings alone. nice scores. keep the chiltons book in the back of your car at all times. the pages are nice and thin and if you ever need to take a dump in the woods it makes decent t.p.

that is what i was told, but i wouldn't know first hand as my car was an automatic. you can make it fit, though

after re-reading you post i realize that this all depends what your "rusty ea71 4wd" is. are you talking about a gen1 body? cause if you are the suspension parts and gas tank won't swap in a straight up bolt on mannor. i had assumed you were talking about mutating 2 different gen2 cars. if not, forget about my advice, it won't fly.

yes on gen 3 cars the gas tanks for 4wd and 2wd were the same, but the car in question is an 81 and i am absolutely certain the tanks are different. i was told the minimum you would have to lift your gen2 car to get the diff not to rub on a 2wd tank is 4 inches. the 2wd tanks on gen2 cars hold 13.2 gallons as opposed to 11.9 gallons in 4wd tanks. there is a VERY noticable difference in the tanks just by lookin at them.

i was in your exact situation. i had a rusty 4wd '80 hatch with a 1600 and single range. i bought a 2wd '80 hatch with a 1800 auto and near perfect body. i wouldn't call it difficult, but time consuming and at times patience trying. go slowly, i converted mine over the coarse of a winter, so i wouldn't recomend taking your daily driver apart and trying to convert it over a weekend. come monday, you'll have to hitch to work. yes the tanks need swapping, but that's no problem at all since you will have the rear crossmember out. you don't need to swap front suspension, but the 4wd struts are adjustable, so i did. the single range tranny will end up in your backyard with snow on it. get a d/r from a junkyard. other than that, i would say the single biggest pain in the rump roast was swapping pedal clusters. there is lots of little stuff like cutting a bigger hole in the body for the stick shift, and mounting the fwd lever. also i have been told the only reason i didn't need to bang the hell out of the body to make the new trany fit was because i was using the body of an automatic car, which had a wider tunnel. if the new car had been a manual 2wd, the tunnel would be narrower and require mucho bango. hope that helps, ask me an specifics you want, i'll try to help. i feel bad for subarus who were born with power only to their front wheels. through organ donor programs like this one, some day all old subarus will walk on all fours.

the torsion bar is inside that thick tube that is the main crossmember. on a 4wd model it is adjustable with a big bolt in the center of the crossmember. you access it through a whole in the body of the car underneath the back seat. you have to lift the rear end of the car up when you do it.

it should be just a shock absorber and a trailing arm that comes off of a tortion bar

an 83 shouldn't have an external voltage regulator, but look yo see if it does. it is usualy gold color, little box bolted to the sidewall of the engine bay next to the ig. coil. if that is overcharging, it will fry one alt after another

i don't think so.

wow. that looks just like te fe i worked on today at pull n save. but nicer. this could be worth a road trip. zyewdall i'm gonna pm ya. moose i got yer glass.

i was born in lake george in 1969. im serious. ever heard of top of the world?

i was told that fe's had a different cam and possibly different heads than the standard ea71s. is it true? they got better mileage and were sopposed to be zippier then regular ea71s so something was different. there is one in a jy in denver, i want to pull the engine if it is truely special. anyone? bueller......bueller....... it's got some good interior stuff if anyone needs....

so did you guys see anything cool at the yards?

most likely an axel. does it ever get better/worse? are any of your axel boot torn? old subarus eat front axels up.

i have nothing but good to say about ozified/patrick davis/byb lift kits.

what and where is western?

i think i saw that situation once.

i would bet it is that or more likely you don't have all of the anti rattle clips on one or both of your pads (should be 3 each side) and you've got a wobble that goes jingle jangle. at speed it straightens itself out. i've had it happen just as you describe.

those farm treads are only rated for about 20 mph.

wow. sweet score.

from this and your previous post it sounds like you get in a lot of confrontations over things you say on line? how old are you? not good tough guy. oooh i hate to agree with corky! that response on nasioc WASN'T confrontational, iluvdirt, and you came off (to me) looking a tad defensive. yes the two boards are very different. i like this one.