the sucker king

My guess is pounts, but first Put a new fuel filter in and swap the fuel pump out too if you've got one you know is good. Hi Mick. I'm going through a similar battle with the green wagon.

I'd be in, too.

everything is pretty much different. You could make it work, but it wouldn't be fun.

I'll get you what I can. Talk to you soon.

Yeah it's there. condition unknown. You seriously willing to figure out away to get it to you? I won't have time to pull it this time, but the car will be there for a while. maybe you could get me to do it another time or bribe one of the other colorado guys.

this car should be there for another couple weeks. I'll be there friday the 20th, anyone want? moosens, make a list of them little things.

hows this for fathers day, my son Marek (whom a few of you have met) and I went to the junkyard in the AM and went fishing in the PM. good day.

i would pay 3 to 4 thousand for it. BUT the question is what is it worth, and it is worth whatever you can get for it. I wouldn't be surprised if it fetched $6,000 or more on ebay.

and might i ad that is one crazy color!

holy crap.

one other thing, you said the cap you bought is not directional, what car is this for? ea71 and ea81 cars I have dealt with the cap will only properly fit one way. A lot of caps have the cylinder #s on the top. Were you using those as a guide? If so you might try turning the cap around. Maybe it's the wrong cap? can you compare it to the old one to make sure?

here is a possibility that I have actually seen before. You say the wires were not in the positions shown in the manual. I have seen people who swapped a distributor, but didn't get it stabbed in the correct possition, not true to TDC. instead of wrestling and guessing, they advanced or retarded the disty and then switched the wires on the cap by one spot. Car ran just fine. If you don't know the history of your car (particularly the disty, was it replaced?) make sure it is set properly. You can find top dead center by pulling the #1 spark plug and turning the crankshaft with a wrench. keep a finger on the spark plug hole and you will here the air gush out on the compression stroke. you can find the timing marks on the flywheel visible through a hole on the top side of the bellhousing. I suggest this only because you commented that the wires were not where they were in the manual.

This arrived in my driveway on Thurseday, direct from Arizona. It's a '79, NO RUST WHATSOEVER!!!!! Did I mention NO FRIGGIN RUST WHAT SO FRIGGIN EVER!!!! How sweet is MY junk????

there is a stage one 77 coupe at a junkyard in CO with very bad rust but some good lenses, glass, rear bumper I think plus who knows what else. I believe there was a good passenger side door and good leather? tan rear bench seat. It was new to the yard, should be there at least a month, I will be going back, who wants anything?

Not to be argumentative, but the alignment tool doesn't have anything to do with alligning the transmision shaft splines. it mearly centers your clutch plate with the pilot bearing (while you put the pressure plate over it). When i had the problem, I had used an alignment tool. I had struggled to remount the transmission all night. Loosening the pressure plate bolts enough so that the clutch plate could rotate to accept the tranny shaft was an instant fix. As far as not being able to tighten the bolts enough through the timing hole, you absolutely need to use a torque wrench on the pressure plate bolts, but if I recall, they shouldn't be very tight. Just make sure you use the specs from the FSM to torque it down and your in bussiness.

i have centercaps that fit them pm me with an email adress if you want i'll send pics of what i have.

Here's a tip I got from other board members a while back when i could not for the life of me get the main tranny shaft mated up to the splines on the clutch plate: leave the pressure plate loose and torque it down through the timing hole AFTER the tranny and engine are mated up. I will always do clutches this way from now on. for what it's worth, i always do a clutch by dropping the tranny, I think most here say pull the engine.

I don't know what you're talking about. prick.

Jon, I don't think $100 is unreasonable. We'll work something out. I'll take it up through PM. Thanks, John

I looked and didn't see anything on ebay. can you send me a link or why not just say how much this dude wants? I pm'd him but got no response.

whatever happened to this? did moosens get his greasy little new jersey fingers on it? what's that? he's from southern connecticut? Same thing! OH SNAP! DAMN! No you diddant! anyways, I NEED a rear bumper for a 77 stage 2 wagon? anyone? (don't care if it's stock, any gen one wagon bumper will do.) I have a SWEET front bumper to trade!

the square holes are for the bumper mounting brackets, there is a chrome round headed bolt with a square underside that keeps it from turning while you tighten it down. the oval slots are for the black rubber bumper end thingies. It looks a lot like the one i pulled off my wagon, i'll try to get some measurements tomorrow. how much you want for it?

at CAP on Radcliff there is a white RX coupe only 68K miles! It just hit the yard late last week, and it's already picked over pretty good. I took the rear diff yesterday and on saturday a guy took the interior and the tranny. Still left is good dash, air dams (rear wing is removed but inside the car), good doors and front and rear bumpers in gray and white. also lenses. go get some stuff!

also, I would think it is a rear bumper, the box said R bumper, and the front bumpers usualy had a flat spot for the liscense plate to sit. I have my damaged gen 1 stage 2 bumper from a 77 wagon that I can take pics and compare, but I'll need some daylight to retrieve it.

hey, if that turns out to be a gen 1 rear bumper, PLEASE let me have a crack at it. I need one oh so bad! John