Ross

Originally, that would have had a crab'd engine and 4 speed manual. What you want, as mentioned before, is axles off any old ea81 4wd car (pre '85)(not L series). Try Rossco's wreckers in Ashburton if you are stuck.

yes, you should be able to get it out after removing the driveshaft.

Have you tried suabru? Some turbo engines (not sure about ea82, but i know ea81ts did sometimes) had a factory oil cooler.

The control relay can cause exactly that symptom, its a large ish can up above the drivers feet on ea81s, probably the same on ea82.

When you are driving in deep snow, mud, or anything, a locked diff makes an amazing difference. Just dont try to drive when you have grip!

This is for my ea81t. The valve faces are not perfectly straight, but they have not worn so far that there is a sharp edge. Just looking for others experiences on this matter, whether i should bother spending more $$ on replacing the valves or just give them a good grind up. Also, one of my manuals (its crap) says the valve guides are non replacable??? They look replacable, are they?

You need to find the relay that is clicking, then you can check for some voltages: One pin should have +12v when you push the switch and one should be grounded (these should be there since you can hear the relay click). Another should have +12v all the time, if not check for a blown fuse/bad wiring. If it does, check that when the relay clicks the fourth terminal gets +12v. If not, replace the relay. If it does, check for +12v at the pump when you push the button. Also check for ground on the other pump terminal. If both these there, you have a bad pump.

Generally, rings etc wont cause oil burning suddenly, so maybe you should check your PCV system first. It could have broken a ring though.

No point in bracing those rear points - they are only shock absorbers and dont take any sideways load.

To add to the jumpy tach: This can be caused by bad grounding. Does it jump when you turn something on or off (eg the lights, heater fan)???

A slide hammer can be used to remove the pins. No one has mentioned here that rings have to be the right way up, they have a marking indicating the top (or in the case of a subaru, closest to the head).

You could always put an ea82t in there, if you're not keen on the EJ thing.

Not New (as far as i know), my one is a Jap import. Heaps of our cars come second hand from Japan over here.

EA81 JDM cars were available with them too. Not common though.

Nah, you should be sweet as. Its when you start tackling old half rusted through exhausts that you'll start to swear!

You most likely knocked a connector off the distributer or something. Double, triple, even quadrupple check every connector in the area before proceeding.

Done plenty. Just mild steel wire is all you need, don't mess around with flux cored, get a bottle of carbon dioxide (you don't need argon or argo-shield for MIGing thin mild steel). You should mess around with your welder settings on a piece of scrap if you are unsure. Just make sure you get proper penetration. With rust in visible areas, i like to cut out quite a bit of extra room around the rust, then weld a patch slightly inside the original line of the panel. Clean off the weld with angle grinder or whatever (flap sanding discs are the way to go with angle grinders - yes they are more expensive, but they last much longer and are really nice to use). Then you can fill the area with your favorite bog to give that perfect finish.

probably much easier to do wit engine out.

I would just find a car at the junk yard and get all its struts with springs attached and put them on. Then you know you've got the correct spring rate and damping.

A related question: What exactly are the Black top injectors? I have some sitting around that definitely look black, not brown. Ever come across these?

Liquified Petrolium Gas. Mix of butane & propane. Not sure about the proportions.

Definitly sounds like you have a bad head gasket, and probably a few other problems caused by driving it with a bad HG. Oil gets that brown colour when it has water and petrol in it.

Well, code 12 refers to a starter switch or circuit problem. I'm really not sure what the computer is looking for with respect to the starter circuit. I would suggest a dodgy ignition switch or connection. Perhaps you should try clearing the codes and seeing if it pops up again.

does it show the code with the engine running or off?

As long as you are using proper equipment, LPG is fine. Also gives you the option of running much higher compression ratios, so you can increase the efficiency of your engine. If I had the money for an LPG tank and throttle plate, my car would definitely be running on it.