Ross

My drivers seatbelt is a little sick...... I cant pull it out unless the car is on a slight angle to the right, or going aroung a left hand bend (by the way, its a right hand drive). Apart from that, it seems to work fine. Does anyone think this is fixable, or is it time for a new seatbelt? Cheers.

Even if the tensioners "check out" ok, its good practice to replace them anyway. that way you know they are good.

An ea81t i just bought came with the black top injectors. Are these the higher flow nissan ones?

4 hours does seem like a long time, ive only done a few though so im not sure. When you are replacing the timing belts, do you realise the tensioners should be replaced as well? if not, thats probably why your belts are failing prematurely.

There will be a lot of play with the nut/hub removed. Thats normal. I have had no problems with doing them with the arm on the car.

Are your brats right or left hand drive?

Probably is caused by a vacuum leak or wrong timing, check the timing with a light before doing anything else.

Is it possibly just helping to vapourise fuel in engines with poorly tuned carburettors?

Did someone vomit on that car??

How bad is your engine? You may not even need pistons, which are the most expensive bit.

I've always wanted to try that, how far along is that project?

Im gonna have to take the ea81t cam i to be checked (been converted to solid lifters by prev owner), so does anyone have any suggestions for modifications to the stock timing? Im not gonna race this, so i dont want to loose too much low end torque. Suggestions/experiences?

hey, thats a big improvement. I might have to try that, especially with the way gas prices are going here.

At high speed, your reasoning will hold. However, at lower speeds, with lots of off-on throttle, the water air intercooler will outperform an air to air intercooler simply because of the larger thermal mass of the cooling water. Another point, most people running air to air coolers on their soobs use a top mount set up, which is less than ideal. With the water to air you dont have to run your intake to the front of your car, but you get the benefit of the better air supply for cooling at the front of your car. I look forward to hearing about your set up.....

Don't rule out a bad spark just because you can see a spark at the plug with it removed. Conditions are very different in your engine, spark may not occur when under these conditions. The fact that turning off #1 plug makes no difference while the injector does seems to point to a spark prob.

Some shock absorbers will make a hissing or squelching noise - this is quite possibly normal, unless you can hear that one side does it worse than the other, in which case perhaps you should get it replaced.

You want a hot wire, you cant plug a flapper in to your loom. Hotwires are supposed to be better anyway. If you have to clean it that often, i would suspect there is something wrong. They are supposed to get very hot for a few seconds after you turn you car off to burn any crap off.

Nasty - always get new tensioners when replacing timing belts.

It could simply be a bad bushing/bearing or something. Raise the car off the ground and give the wheel a good jiggle, see if you can see whats moving.

My friend had his ea82t radiator cleaned in this manner for around US$10, worked perfectly afterwards. For this price, i think its worth trying before looking at a new one anyway, even if there is a risk that it will destroy the radiator.

bounce

Many of the heat sheilds on my ea81t are missing, as they self destructed when I tried to remove them (ie the bolts were too stuck, and i was far too impatient!). No implications as yet, i just ensure nothing flammable/meltable sits too close.

That may be so, but I believe it was a totally different story 10-15 years ago. The number of crap Japanese vehicles we get over here is far too large for them to have all been owned by Americans. I'm talking thousands and thousands every year.

You need a special Heli-coil tap, its not a standard size.

Over here in New Zealand, we get A lOT of second hand cars from Japan. The problem we have is that, in Japan, it is/was uneconomical to service your car. This applies to any kind of service - including oil changes and other baisic maintanence. Because of this, most Jap imports will be rubbish by the time they have done 100,000km or so, even if they are looked after when they get here. I don't know the history of these engines you are speaking of - maybe they have a different story, but i wouldn't count on it. However, these engines undoubtably will not have had a previous rebuild - so you will be able to undersize crank journals etc. should you wish to recondition it. I beilieve you would be better off getting an engine locally or fixing yours - 150k isnt that much, and even a full rebuild isn't that expensive.