Ross

You need a special Heli-coil tap, its not a standard size.

Over here in New Zealand, we get A lOT of second hand cars from Japan. The problem we have is that, in Japan, it is/was uneconomical to service your car. This applies to any kind of service - including oil changes and other baisic maintanence. Because of this, most Jap imports will be rubbish by the time they have done 100,000km or so, even if they are looked after when they get here. I don't know the history of these engines you are speaking of - maybe they have a different story, but i wouldn't count on it. However, these engines undoubtably will not have had a previous rebuild - so you will be able to undersize crank journals etc. should you wish to recondition it. I beilieve you would be better off getting an engine locally or fixing yours - 150k isnt that much, and even a full rebuild isn't that expensive.

Perhaps the pump could burn out, but i don't think you would have major problems.

Utter Crap.

Non Structural areas - just stop it from spreading. Structural areas - welding is the only way. Its easiest to weld in a patch slightly below the original panel, so that you can add filler to give a perfect finish. A MIG or TIG welder is your best bet. Watch out for factory brazings - like at the top of the A pillars for example. Best to remove these before welding.

Havn't heard of that - i would think they would end up here if they existed, and i havn't seen one newer than '94. You should definitely look in to it though, it would be nice to have a brand new brumby!

Anyone? Only marking on them is "OSS 362".

Try warming the engine up first.

As mentioned earlier, when you disconnect the MAF, the computer goes in to a "limp home" mode that allows you to drive. It regulates the amount of fuel based only on the engine speed and tps. This gives it a rough estimate of how much fuel is required, but it will run slightly rich under most conditions in this mode. If the pinging is gone, i would have a very comprehensive check for inlet leaks before moving on to other things.

Got those pistons out, seems they are a non subaru part. Here are some pics of them, notice the shorter skirts on them compared with my other ones. Anyone know anything about these? -They look like they will give a lower comp ratio than my original ones..... ????

As above. It also explains why you shouldn't feel you got ripped off when the bottle comes only half full.

I think there is a brochure for one in the brochures section.

Baisically, the intercooler sits where a top mount would, but no cooling air goes through it. instead, its filled with water, which is circulated by a small electric pump through a small radiator at the front of your car (in front of the main radiator). I believe they are a better choice for lower speed driving - rallyX, around town etc. An air to air works better for high speed track racing. Main advantage apart from that, is that you don't have to have a bonnet scoop, and you don't have to run your intake up to the front of the car. Not much difference in difficulty of installation, you just have to mount the small radiator up the front somewhere - there is plenty of room in the old subies. If you can find a junkyard legacy (some other cars use them as well) you should be able to get the whole set up quite cheap.

Another option would be to go with the water to air intercooler off an old legacy.

I hope you find those responsible. They sure did make a mess. When my car got broken into last year (2k+ worth gone), the cops had footage of the guy doing a previous break in, knew what he drove, where he lived, and knew that he went around national park carparks breaking in to cars. Still, they did next to nothing.....GGrrrrrrrrr. I would love to go back there and catch them....

This post is now irrelevant.

Tried driving without the MAF yet?

Strange. Usually a head/HG prob will make the water bubble. So, if I understand correctly, as soon as you start the engine, the coolant flows out of the rad cap? Will it just keep pushing it out till its nearly empty, or does it stop fairly quickly?

Hello. An '82 with power windows...... very nice. Does it have headlight washers, or electric mirrors?

Does the water in the radiator bubble with the engine on?

If your REALLY keen, the computers chips can be reprogrammed. Still, i don't think there would be much to gain, and you would probably have to pay an elec engineer more money that a megasquirt would set you back. That, and even looking at the programming code used for those wee processors gives me a headache.

Can't see any identification looking with the car on the ground - apart from the fact that they're yellow. I'll have a good look next time the wheels are off and pm you. Out of interest, what sort of height does yours sit at at the front?

I think the bad English in the ad is a good indication that its a load of crap. That, and the fact that all it can possibly do is make the engine run richer.

Both are turbo pistons - non turbo ones are flat.

Ahh, that could make sense. THe ones on the right are quite new i think, they probably supercede the ea81t ones... Cheers