Ross

Fuseable links can be deceptive sometimes. i had one that would work 90% of the time, but would cut out sometimes. Looked fine, but wasn't.

For ages now the left indicators have flashed faster than the right on my 83 wagon. Thought it was probably an incorrect bulb, so just left it. Yesterday, the front corner indicator stopped working altogether. Opened it up, bulb looked all black, so i bought a new one and put it in. No cahnge, front corner indicator is still dead. I have verified there is no power at the bulb holder. Im now thinking that a bad connection/ground has been responsible for the slightly fast flashing, and is now responsible for the light not going at all. I presume that the front corner indicator wont have a ground all of its own, so if it were a ground i'd notice other things not going. so, anyone know possible locations to start looking for a bad connection? Any common wear points on the indicator wiring? Thanks.

Another reason to lift the wheels off the ground (if its not being taken for regular drives by someone): Your front bearings can get marked from sitting in one position with load on them for a long time. I know this used to be a problem (especially with deep groove balls like on the front of your soob), not sure if it still is or not. Anyway, definitely get it driven every month or so if you can ,then you dont have to worry about it.

Very nice. Looks like it has the same wheels on it as my 83 turbo wagon.

Try SKF, part # 6207 2RS

SKF do them, but they wont last quite as long like that. I reckon take one seal out of each bearing and re pack and fit so that the bearings are open to the space in the middle, which can have some extra grease in it.

The pic on trademe is a gen 1 brat, isn't it?

Some gen 2 cars were called leone over here. Not all of them though, so i don't know exactly how it works.

Are you using the gearbox out of it???

I have some aftermarket struts in my 83 turbo wagon, i think they may be 2wd ones. Lower ride height give it much much better handling. don't know what make they are though, i need to lift the car up and have a good look.

The suspension arms definitely wont fit, not sure about axles, probably not though. Needs to be a gen 2 car.

The head gaskets are different - not much though. My ea81t had a non turbo aftermarket head gasket on it when i took it apart. Seemed to work fine, but i am replacing it with an oem turbo one, its no more expensive over here anyway.

I just chisel away the corners of a piece of 2x4" timber. works well. If its stuck, its probably gone in on an angle. Try to figure out which way its tilted, and hit one side of it to straighten it up.

No, although i was under the impression that they worked the same as the ea series ones: front wheel drive, or hi/low 4wd with no center diff.

Havn't got a pic, but the only difference is in where the transmission crossmember bolts on.

If it hasn't been going for a while, it may be a little siezed. Try connecting it to the battery and tapping on the pump end with a screwdriver handle or something. I had to do this for quite a while with one of mine. If the outlet or inlet is blocked, it will also cause what you describe.

Did you guys not get dual range legacys over there??

For swappin in a 4 speed: THe pedal box is a bit of a pain if you have a computer and all that down there, but not hard at all if you dont. Remember you've got to swap radius rod mounts from the manuual car too. You will have to enlarge the hole through the floor for the shifter, the sheet metal bracket that holds the shifter boot works well as a template for this. I read somewhere that you have to swap the drive shaft, but you dont.

Only works for LSDs. If you put the breaks on with an open diff, the same torque will be applied to both wheels. As he stated in the link, an open diff always sends the same torque to both wheels.

This with rear bearings? They may be incorrectly adjusted. As i said before, you shouldn't be able to hear your wheel bearings.

Definitely check ignition system. Start with checking condition of spark plugs and work back from there.

Ditto, ive never heard of a rolling element bearing with soft metal rollers. You shouldn't get noise in the cold. How cold are we talking? Maybe you need a special low temp grease. If you can ever hear your wheel bearings, there is something wrong,

Well.....yes..but i live a very very long way from you. I have an extra one (minus ecu), but shipping would be ridiculous. Try putting an ad in the marketplace forum.

That is Very odd. I'd definitely replace it with a "real" one. What makes you say it is OEM? I'd say it would have long since worn out if it had soft rollers from the factory.

depends, if the play is up and down at the end of the rack, re bush or replace the rack. If its play in the ball joint at the end of the rack, replace the tie rod. If its play in and out of the rack, replace the rack.