Ross

That is Very odd. I'd definitely replace it with a "real" one. What makes you say it is OEM? I'd say it would have long since worn out if it had soft rollers from the factory.

depends, if the play is up and down at the end of the rack, re bush or replace the rack. If its play in the ball joint at the end of the rack, replace the tie rod. If its play in and out of the rack, replace the rack.

Brakes on one of my cars (ea81 wagon) rattle and click, there were missing anti vibration springs. Dunno how many of these springs gen 1s have, but it might be worth checking.

The brass colour is probably due to the bearing being overheated. All bearings of that sort should be alloy steel - unless you get ceramic ones.

If you're wipers come on again, i would change the relay/control thing. Bad one of them can cause havoc - on my old ea81 wagon, i would be driving along the road, the wipers would turn on and the ignition would die, over and over again. Rather hilarious. Once after i had finished re installing the dash in the same car, while driving all of a sudden the temp gauge went up past red, the oil pressure did the same, the fuel gauge went to about 3/4 (up from about 0), the heater fan control turned into the wiper control, the wiper control turned the heater fan on full...... plus a whole lot of other wierd things. After turning the car off for 5 mins, all was back to normal. That was a couple of years ago now, never had anything like it happen since. Think mines haunted too?

errrr.... there was a reason why i asked... cant think what it was now though...

THe ea81t will go hard with bigger injectors, aftermarket ecu and td04, so will the ea82t. Sure you dont have to change timing belts on ea81t, but thats not a huge advantage considering the fact that if you could find an ea81t you may pay at least 2x what you would for an ea82t. If you can get an ea81t cheapish, it should go well.

I have a car (not subaru) that has done 320,000kms on original wheel bearings, and have never been re packed. Soobs seem to go through them a bit more - probably just the rough crap they are driven over i suspect. As long as you put them in carefully, and pack roughly 1/3 full, they should last at least 100,000kms no matter how poor your roads are. Although whenever you design anything using bearings, you generally specify a grease re pack every so many hours, when you're dealing with very common cheap bearings its really not worth the effort in my opinion. A good grease will last a very long time if you dont drive through rivers, and have good seals.

If its in your alternator, the manufacturers sticker will probably say "IC Reg." on it.

Assuming the new ones have the same rear suspension as the old ones, there should be a small hole under the rear seat, probably covered with a rubber bung. Under it is a bolt, turn it anti-clockwise to lower the suspension.

Have you checked for error codes? How do you know its running rich? The auto ecu with a manual isnt a problem.

The Hydro engines have a larger exhaust valve, intake is the same.

You want the cavity about 1/3 full of grease. More than this will cause extra friction, and will decrease the life of the bearing. If you dont "buy the theory", you can find confirmation in any bearing designers manual, and even most bearing catalogues.

There should be an anti diesel solenoid on your carburettor. EIther that has a bad connection, or it needs to be replaced.

The brat cam is different. however, a cam regrind is also very cheap. If you're looking for max compression, the ea82 spfi pistons will give the highest, at around 9.5:1 i think.

The pressure relief valve shouldn't do anything once the engine is warm anyway. Are you sure you're using the correct oil viscosity? Most likely, id say your pressure sender is bung, you should temporarily install a mechanical gauge and see how that reads.

Are you using a completely stock wiring loom?

Is this an aftermarket gauge? If its a factory one, dont trust it. What oil do you use?

Im not sure if the later ecu will enrichen the mixture when knocking either? I doubt it would be that much if it did. You sure the "Raw fuel" isnt water?

nothing obviously wrong that i can see on the outside. Also, the control is very stiff throughout its movement. Any ideas?

The '87 probably does not have a knock control unit, it uses a different sensor (single wire) connected directly to the ecu. i say probably, because i think some 87s still had the flapper air flow sensor, in which case it will have a knock control unit. More likely, it has a hot wire air flow sensor, so it wont have a knock control unit.

Replace the clutch. It will slip at maximum torque, not max power.

Thats some seriously good results from an old car! nice. If you cant find a donor up your way, there are plenty here. Ill keep an eye out if you want.

Welcome. The ea81t computer will show codes 11 and 12 when the ignition switch is in the on position and the engine is not running. Thats normal. If your fuel pump isnt going, plug in the green connector near the computer and check for voltage at the pump. it should pulse on and off with that connector connected.

As long as you double clutch properly when downshifting (you should anyway), there is no extra wear on either gearbox or clutch. Brake pads are more expensive than nothing! Coasting in Neutral is no good for your gearbox.