Ross

I wouldn't recommend repco leads, spend the extra money and get some that will last.

In front of drive axles, where the starter motor is attached.

There are no rubber seals on the exhaust valves.

I'm just getting confused with other engines. I just checked the FSM and you're right, you don't need to re torque the heads after warm up.

We get heaps of jap cars over here, and i've never seen a gen 2 with air suspension. If they did have tehm in Jap, they are rare.

your pushrods wont run away, they cant fall into the oil pan. you should be able to just pull them out whern you have romoved the rockers. I'm 95% sure that your supposed to re-torque the heads after you have warmed up the engine. I may be thinking of another engine, ill check in my manual later.

according to the parts manuals at the local repco parts store, '80s soobs were available with nissan diesels. There was even apparently a 4wd version, although i cant think how a straight 4 would fit with the soob 4wd gearbox. Possibly a different gearbox too? Dunno.

You should have a 3.9 diff at the moment i think... you need to swap diffs with the gearbox. I think you need a longer speedo cable for all conversions on LHD cars.

A heavy flywheel will prevet the engine stalling or quickly slowing down when you let the clutch out. A lighter flywheel will make the engine easier to stall, but will let it rev up faster. If you lighten it too much, you won't be able to start your engine at all, so don't take too much off.

I presume you could just warm the engine up, remove the rocker shaft again, re torque the head nuts, attach the rockershaft. Bit of a PIA though.

The smaller clutch came on the earlier ea81s, up to 82 or 83 i think, so yours should have the bigger one (thats good, the small ones suck). Get the flywheel checked, it may need machining - this would also cuase the problem you describe. I would also just ask for parts for an '84 brumby if your having trouble. Valvetrain is the only thing that changed after then i think.

Will the non turbo exhaust fit with the turbo crossmember?

Na, a deep socket wont fit with the rocker shaft on. I think the nuts are 17mm??

You can get aftermarket gaskets, although oem ones may be better. The only special tool i can think of is the socket for tightening the head nuts with the rocker shaft in place (you have to re-torque the nuts once you warm the engine up). You can make one of these you'll need a welder though: Just buy a crap socket, and chop it in half so that your left with the twin hex bit and the square drive socket bit. Then you just need some bar (12mm or so and about 30mm long), which you weld between the two bits of the socket. This gives you a long socket with a small side clearance. If you don't want to do this, i'm sure there are other ways around it...?

You should measure with a micrometer, not a vernier. Things like valve stems and bearing journals need to be within a very tight tolerance.

While the ea81t is put of service, i thought id put my spare in for a while. Just trying to think of exactly what id need to do to get it to run in the turbo wagon. Heres what ive got so far: Swap turbo exhaust for non turbo Bypass EFI puel pump, attach my under bonnet carb pump. Connect temp sensor Create choke control cable (its a manual choke) Disconnect computer etc. Provide power for fuel pump etc re wire coil trigger etc. Any additions?

A bad bearing will usually give you a more severe sound than a "swoosh", however check the following: Jack up tha car and feel for play in the wheel. A very small amount of play is fine - so much that you can see the wheel move when you jiggle it is not. If there is excessive play, check the hub (castle) nut for tightness. If its not loose, replace your bearings. If there is no play, it sounds like a warped rotor or bent wheel could be your problem as mentioned earlier. Also check for things like out of place splash guards, or a bent stone guard (the guard on the side of your disk rotor).

Thanks, i hope its something simple like that - ive taken the heater box out of one of these before and it was NOT fun!

The heater on the ea81t wagon (which is currently off the road ) works very well. That is, untill you select the upper vents. Then, all that comes out is cold air. The foot and defrost settings push out warm air fine. The fresh air vent works as it should. The cold air coming out of the upper vents does get forced by the heater fan. If its set to half upper and half feet, hot air comes out at the feet and cold air still comes out the upper vents. Any ideas on what would cause this? I hope the heater system hasn't been taken to with a chainsaw like my other ea81 wagon had!

Straight from SKF. Look up their web site, it shows all locations there. They are literally all over the place throughout the world. I second the side seals, although i would recommend only sealing the outer side, leaving the inner open to maintain proper lubrication.

You can get crap bearings, make sure they are from a reputable manufacturer (SKF, *********, Timken, etc...). They all have widely varying prices, its best to call around for each different bearing. That ******* is a bearing manufacturers name!!

Sounds like you guys want some water injection!

More importantly, it has a much higher ignition temperature, meaning you can run much higher compression ratios.

Im sure you can buy a repair kit from parts shops, never actually used one though.

Have you checked for coil firing with the test light as above? If not, i would try that to rule out a bad coil. Has this engine been retrofitted? If so, are you sure the ecu is getting power when the ignition is in the 'start' position? It really doesn't make sense that the ecu wouldn't give a code 11 if the distributor was at fault, thats why i suspect it may be an ecu or coil issue.