Ross

It is ticking like mad. Im gonna swap in a good oil pump today, just to rule that out before i start getting more drastic, or decide to just ignore the ticking. A more worrying noise i'd like to remove is a faint knocking at idle. Im hoping a little more oil pressure will fix it.

No worries.. Buy them at any auto parts store. If you get a mechanical one, tey come with gauge, hose, and fittings. These fittings fit into where your factory oil pressure sender/oil pressure switch goes into (on oil pump on ea81s). There is also a spare port that you can use on the ea81 oil pump so you can keep your oil light and turbo line (if its a turbo). You then mount the gauge in your car.

Thanks guys. i have a spare oil pump sitting around, so i might give that a check and put it on. Better safe than sorry, ay.

Or high silver content for a silver based solder. Lead based stuff is being phased out, wit silver based solder replacing it. not sure if this is happening in the US yet, but lead based solder wont be available in europe soon.

The grinding sound could be a heat shield rattling.

Just installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my ea81t. I've done a search on this, but didn't come up with what i wanted. Once the oil is up to temp, it sits at around 10psi at idle, and around 35psi at 2500rpm. I know this is lower than the specified pressure, but does anyone know if its too low for the hydraulic lifters to function?

That sounds like your rear wheel bearings. For the engine, also check spark plugs, disty cap etc.

Are you looking for two seperate systems, or one combined?

They can help carb'd engines run better when cold. Once your enigine is warmed up, there probably wont be much if any difference. They will have no effect on a fuel injected engine.

BFG mt's arn't that noisey on the road - at least compared with other mud trerrains. You could barely hear them in my mates 40 series landcruiser (drowned out by other noises).

Does anyone else have sloppy inner cvs? by the way, i often hear cv joints reffered to as "DOJ"s here, what does doj stand for?

I believe they are different.

just looking at those codes again - code 32 means that the o2 circuit is open, so it may not detect a dead o2 sensor, depending on what its doing.

Yeah, i would think that if the o2 sensor was that bad it would bring up a code 32.

Balance EVERYTHING! A friend did this to a mini engine - balanced averything including camshaft, water pump, so on. Small difference, but its there. Shot peen rods, get valve train suitable for 10,000rpm. Plane head or get spfi pistons to increase cr.

Sounds like a good plan to me. If i had the cash, i would be doing it too. I heard that some people are saying that crude could reach US$100 a barrel in the next year!!!

They get quite hot if youve been doing a bit of braking, thats normal. If they get too hot to touch when you haven't been doing any serious braking, id say somethings wrong.

I believe he was probably using a catalyst to help separate the water molecules. This has been achieved many times, but the prblem is that any catalysts that have been found to work tend to be expensive. With a lawn mower engine, the catalyst may last a while. Once you start using it on a bigger engine, you may go through more moneys worth of catalyst material than your saving in gas. What i have written sounds like BS to me, cos i was under the impression that, by definition, a catalyst is not used up in a reaction. Thats what ive heard though.

Yes, you knock out the roll pin holding the inner cv to the gearbox output shafts. then the axle pulls off the box. If your cv boots look crappy, it would be best to replace them and re pack the cvs while your at it. Likewise, if your cvs are knocking, now would be a good time to replace them.

Thats 14..... but my manual doesn't give a code 14 either. Is it giving another? THere should be a model designation code, if 14 is the only one thats flashing thats probably what it is.

The only difference is that your computer will get a signal from the o2 sensor sooner when the engine is cold. ie you wont put out as much pollution when you first start your car up.

Haynes manual does not give a torque spec for it. I'd say just do em up tight.

All California models came with 3 wire o2 sensors.

They should both screw in to the same hole, only difference is the 85-86 one is two wire and is wired up to a knock control unit, while the 87+ one has one wire and is wired to teh computer. Might be interesting if you have to tap that hole, its not very deep and i think its a tapered thread.

The '83's (or at least the ones we have in NZ) still had solid rotors (mine has). I gotta find me some ventilated ones, these solid ones suck.