grimaceNMike

While changing my pcv valve I noticed the hose's were caked in sludge. Still enough to breathe, but clogging for sure. I managed to clean the longer hose but this Y connector (picture) would not come off the engine. I didn't want to scrape the sludge back into the crankcase... So what do I do?

With the engine running spray maf cleaner near the whistling sound, see if the idle changes. Maybe it's an air leak after the maf.

Thanks for the quick responses! Gary, thanks alot! I'll đo the bearings soon, in the meantime maybe I'll try removing the belt and see how it goes, now that i know i won't damage my compressor from inactivity. I won't be cutting the belt as it is new and i plan to use it again in the summer. My idler pulleys are new as well so i doubt that's my sound. Again thanks!

The air conditioning system in my car is 22 years old, it still works fine in the summer but the a/c compressor's pulley makes a subtle noise. It's like an unlubricated bearing sound when the compressor is not engaged/free spinning, when I turn on the defrost or a/c the noise from the pulley is more noticeable. Like I said it still puts out cold air and works alright and I am grateful for that but I would like the car to be a little more quiet under the hood, however, working on the air condition system kinda scares me. So I was wondering if I can remove the a/c drive belt for the winter time? Then hook it back up in the summer when I need it. What are the ramifications of doing this? Is there a fuse or connection I should remove as well? Has anyone done this? Would it save gas? I beleive the defrost setting uses air conditioning to help unfog the windows in the winter, but cars without a/c manage somehow, right? Thanks!

There are two different Cel connectors under the dash. The green connectors(two wires) do current issues and there is another black connector (single wire) that does memory, or stored issues. Make sure they are both disconnected and see if your CEL light is still on.

Great to hear he got the car back! It's an awesome feeling to get your property back. I wish i would have found it though, I live off dravus..

Unless you have frameless windows.. Like mine.

My book only goes up to 96..

thanks everyone for the feedback! Texas for the win! Gunked up IAC valve. yay grimace!

Could have been that your dust gaurd was rubbing and if you brought it to les Schwab or Goodyear they will rip you off to the fullest. I agree with the difficulty of copy paste or even typing on this app with a smart phone or my tablet. Can't upload or load images... ugh

My buddy has 98 outback and it has cloth heated seats.

What about the fuel filter? Any CEL?

Have you thought about making the switch to braided brake lines?

I'm gonna get a maf from the junkyard and a new fuel filter from the store. Any other ideas??

Sounds like the ignition switch. Mine had issues like that, had to turn the key about thirty times to get it to turn over. The rrr rrr doesn't sound like ignition switch though.

I am having a new issue with grimace. Within the last three days a new symptom has come up with my car, and I have read on this forum few times "if it's not broke don't fix it", so now I need help figuring out what to fix. I got my car for free from a friend in 2010, it ran okay but I didn't know much about Subarus four years ago, the previous owner told me that I didn't need to worry about the check engine light because the car was going to die in the next six months anyways. I drove it around as my daily driver for about two years without any real issues and I even started to rely on my car. About two years ago I decided to check into what the CEL was about, three longs and two shorts : oxygen sensor. I bought a new sensor and went under the car to put it on, when I went under the car I found a nub that once was my oxygen sensor.. My guess is someone forgot to plug it back into the ecu and it wrapped around the axle and it snapped off. By the signs of corrosion my guess would be that this had happened years before I found it. I replaced it, and reset my ecu. The CEL went away for a few miles but came back, when I connect the green test connectors under my dash the CEL goes away completely, when I disconnect them it comes back with the same oxygen sensor circuit open. But driving has been fine for a year at least, till three days ago when I started it after work. The engine turned over and quickly jumped to 2200rpms then dropped down to 200-300rpms, then back up to 1200. It kept bouncing up and down so I gave it some gas and it calmed down, I put it in gear and started my trek home. At every red light it tried to stall when it began to idle, I had to give it gas to keep it from an idle but then all of a sudden the rpms would jump up an extra 2grand and lurch the car forward, so I had to hold the brake with my left foot, I was two footed driving all the way home. The next morning it ran fine for 10-15 minutes until it started to stutter on the road @30mph. I pulled over and turned the car off, then back on and it drove another couple miles without issue. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is warm or not. I feel a back pressure building when accelerating and the engine sounds like it's missing. I've checked all of the vacuum lines I can find, i sprayed everything that breathes with maf cleaner and no surge of power, no hiss of leaks, spark plugs are a month old, NGK plugs and wires. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets, cam seals, oil pump o ring, and crank seal last month and the car had been running good since then. This morning I tried unplugging the maf connector while the car was running fine and it stalled immediately so I assume it's not that. My next guess is the catalytic converter.. With the oxygen sensor missing I think the car was running rich for years and I might have cooked my cat. It always heat ticks for at least 5 min after I turn the car off, seems super hot, and it's all white on the outside, ashy white. Can a clogged cat cause these intermittent issues?? Thanks everyone!

DIY Car Security Killswitch: Old school mighty car mods! When I got my car back I put an alarm in, and bought a club. A Kill switch is still on my to do list..

Thanks man! That was a pretty simple project after all, I thought it was going to be difficult because I read the Haynes manual first. I appreciate the tip

http://youtu.be/Wzx8m5bBoEY Name that noise* not make... Any ideas????????????? Thanks!

Its a pretty easy project, miles fox has a video on the oil pump o ring, crank seal and cam seals on YouTube. I did it last week without assistance and it went well. Just be careful not to break the timing belt covers they cost about $40 a piece and are super fragile plastic.

I live in interbay across the bridge from Ballard, I'll keep an eye out. My car was stolen from my apt last year, they took the cheapo speakers and head unit and ditched the car in lake city I'm guessing that same night. It sat in a suburb for a week till a neighbor called the police. There were two Subarus parked next to each other, both stolen. good luck!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149393-reverse-gear-noise-and-moderate-righthand-turning-noise/ Here is my dilemma! Please help

My car has a leak as well. My windshield is to blame, after a heavy rain My headliner gets puddles in it, and when I brake the water drops down on my ps seat and floor. After a few days it starts to smell like mildew and wet dog.. Very annoying.

Sounds like you need a bigger stereo

Brand new CV axels. No leaks or breaks in the boots I had completely destroyed cv axels before i changed therm and I know that sound, this is different. Like gears eating each other or something. Thanks for the input! :]