misledxcracker

results since last post: got the SVX steering wheel installed, minus the airbag, of course, and cant figure out how to keep the front piece on without it? but it looks awesome! got the SVX shift knob installed, had to drill new screw holes... wtf is the "manual" button for? i doubt i'd get that "working" anyways, but still, it looks cool! got the SVX stock Panasonic tape player and CD player installed as a double-din deal. Works great! To figure out how to install a 4-channel amp, next goal for that got the SVX turn signal dealie installed, thats a WHOLE new thing I'll be working on... re-wiring headlight switch wires and the such.. ...we shall see. got the SVX seats, not a tear or break! perfect leather! problem is, this may be more of a PITA than I thought... new ideas: - get these friggin seats installed, they're awesome - if i can comprehend all the wiring... SVX gauges maybe? - darn it, i'd sure like to figure out how to re-wire the headlight dealie... - re-plate my car from "el soob" to "svxwnab"

OK, I did more research and looked over the car... Long one here... When cold, it knocks, ticks, whatever it is, really bad. I get about 55-65 PSI on the gauge. After driving for say... 15 minutes, the oil pressure lowers... to about 10 PSI for every thousand RPM's, which sounds right according to my search. After driving for these 15 minutes, parking the car and letting it idle, I can still hear a clacking noise, much quieter though. Idles at about 700 RPM like it's supposed to, oil gauge registers anywhere from zero to 10 PSI. I've also got a CEL: EGR solenoid. I highly doubt the EGR has absolutely anything to do with this, and plus I already replaced the solenoid itself. Time to get a JY valve and buy the gasket, I guess. I took a wrench (long one) and played doctor again with the engine running when warm AND cold... it makes noise everywhere but geez, its coming more out of the distributor than anything... I used to get Crank Angle Sensor codes but ever since I tightened the timing belts and re-timed it, no more code 16. But I can totally hear a mix of a whirring and clicking noise coming from the distributor... I put the wrench on where the bolt is to tighten it up. Also! Last thing, I am noticing I'm losing oil (well duh, its a Soob) but, its landing on, (figuring out how to explain it) looking down in the engine compartment, where the passenger's side head is, right in front of it, that metal plate sticking out from under the car... like it's coming out from the Valve Cover Gaskets, or the oil pump possibly? I really dont know, but it's losing oil, and a lot of it. And sometimes, it burns off on the exhaust pipe? Why do I have this weird feeling that this isnt the TOD?

Belts are practically new... I believe that the mechanic which sold me the car, didnt know how to do the timing belts... and the tensioners look fine, they do their job... for now I'm still getting knocks/ticks but it's all good, she runs great!

And it worked, 90 percent of that racket is gone. Now I think adjusting the belt shot me off a tooth on my cam timing I think it's called... So to check that I go!

Argh... and I friggin lost my 3/8 12mm somewhere in the yard, I'll have to take care of it later then. Hope it gets rid of my knocking!

anyone ever had a knocking noise with a loose driver's side timing belt?

fuel injected ea82, iirc, spfi. like i said, the disty sounds like the main culprit according to the stethoscope (a long wrench) but theres ticking all over the place. get this... my drivers side timing belt is more loose than the passenger side... is this the reason its been ticking all along possibly? how tight are these timing belts supposed to be?! i can pretty much twist the belt... and also, it has about 7/8 inches play in it... the passenger side seems MUCH tighter.

it sounds like a mix between a tick, and a knock. i tried the stethoscope out on it, and its coming from the disty more than anything?? its confusing me...

Do 1986 GL's have knock sensors? And when I move the distributor around, the knock does not go away...

im getting a Crank Angle Sensor code. Also, getting a EGR code. The car idles low at times, even at 20 degrees timing. Question is, can a going-bad disty cause the engine to knock?

I do know it bolts up to some Impreza/WRX 5-speed trannys, there's more info on that if you search for it... I've read up on it, but I dont plan on doing anything that intensive to my GL... she's only got 88k on her, and I wanna learn the EA82 like the back of my hand and get her up to 300k...so in she stays. I'm pretty sure you could snag this engine out of it for really, really cheap...(see below though) This guy that runs the JY doesnt know jack **** about Subaru's.... actually, no one does out in this part of the state And I just came from the JY... (I live 3 minutes from it) picked up the EGR solenoid for my GL, and fired up the SVX! Yep, keys in ignition, battery still there, and it was knocking really loud, waaay worse than my GL does... And guess what, I tried to put it in reverse, no go. Drive, no go. Looks like you were right, Gary... tranny shot. Looks like the engine is/will be as well... And yes, true mileage is 46K according to the speedo. Checked tranny fluid, brown, actually more on the black side. The man at the JY said I could have the steering wheel, the seats, and the radio for $80... so I'll be getting that next Thursday on payday... I couldnt read out what the steering wheel says on the front of it... Could someone tell me what it says? (Lost my contacts last night, GAH!)

Though mine is not a Turbo, nor an 87, my green connectors are exactly where yours are, and my white connectors are under the hood, by the fuel filter. One time, my old mechanic in Cali hooked up a Snapon code reader (ancient) to one of the connectors under the hood (cant remember which one) It may be the brown one Gary is talking about..

Mine does the same thing, yet throws me either a Crank Angle, or an EGR... whatever it feels like doing that day. If the car runs good, gives you good MPG, and doesnt throw a horrible code... electrical tape is your best friend or you can go the other route if you like your dash to look clean, and pop out the bulb...

Now I dont know if this is a good or bad way to do it, but this is how I did it: Bought a new 180 deg. thermostat, radiator drain plug (dont hurt to have a spare) Went to the local car wash, covered the disty (even though mine's bad, but ahem, anyways) removed the thermostat, tightened the housing, removed the radiator drain plug, drained the old nasty coolant into my oil tub, took the water hose, ran the car, spraying the hose full blast into the radiator (dont use wash, use rinse! hehe ). I couldnt believe how much debris came out of the thing... did this for about 2 or 3 minutes until I saw no more beige looking debris (keep in mind my car sat for years prior to this cleaning) and then reinstalled my thermostat, and the drain plug, filled 'er with 50/50, and drove on! Two hours later, drove to Los Angeles and back, car stayed in the middle of the gauge the whole time... keep in mind, we do things awfully weird in western arizona, this was taught to me by an "import" mechanic... although he said my car has only one timing belt, wtf I have two! "no you dont" haha

i'd think wiring the radio is simple: find the SVX radio wire diagram, match it to the EA82. I think that'd be fairly easy. Thing is, it has a separate CD player, DIN size, under it. I might pick all that up today, he'd probably sell the whole shebang to me for $5 or so. That's once I measure the Metra console dealie I bought and see if it'll all fit with assistance of a utility knife I did notice that the SVX steering wheel has an airbag, I could probably remove it, but what would be the big difference in installing it on the EA82 other than that, I wonder? At the moment I have a weird "hub" with a "Dino" steering wheel, really cheesy. I hear the Dino steering wheels are worth $$$ though... it even has an "S" logo on it Seats I can probably pull off, and get to fit one way or another, but IIRC, they were power seats.. That's something I may also pick up... but have to make sure I can recline the seats and so forth, without the power setup... or maybe rig it all to work? I'll probably go back to the JY later (picking up an EGR solenoid) and I'll inspect further.

just got back from the JY... the man knows me well, tells me "we got another subaru" and it was a friggin 1992 SVX. too friggin bad they wont sell me the whole thing, it only had 46k and was NOT totalled ....so since i cant have the whole car, what all from a SVX can be put into my 1986 GL sedan, if anything? I definately want the steering wheel, and maybe the seats.. heck, even the radio if it works ... ah man I see the possibilities but I wanna see if anyone knows or has done any interchanging between the EA82 and the SVX... if i'm in the wrong section, mods move me... didnt know whether to throw this onto old gen or retrofitting... thanx, gary

Hmm.. How much would you want for it?

alright... here's what i want to do. i want to install 6x9's in the front doors, and the rear deck. so i can hook up the 600 watt amp and piss people off now what should i use to cut the holes? also, this is a 1986 GL sedan we're talking about here... the front doors take 4 inchers i believe, and the rear deck took 5 1/4. I think I can cut the rear deck and make it OK if I make a template and cut it with a saw... but what about clearance for the windows in the front doors? would a 6x9 hit the windows when they're rolled down? or is there another way to make a custom speaker enclosure in the door panel? Ideas, please, ideas...

and i bet with a good-ole 2 ton floor jack and a jackstand to hold one side up... you could get the body kit off of it, with the justy still on top of it... i wish i could even SEE an RX in person... Out here, theres only ONE Subaru in our junkyard... and I've pretty much stripped it of all its good parts...

i should be in So-Cal at the end of the month, given someone on this board would help me for a change and find out whats up with my car... I will only be there for a day, but I can do a partial tune-up, the timing belt, drive belt, oil pan gasket, the brakes and the hoses. The rest of it I have no knowledge in, plus I own an AT car. If you needed it done sooner, I'm sure someone's out there in the area..

No other connectors under the dash... just the green one and a white one under the hood... When nothing's connected, it brings up code 16 and 11. (Crank Angle Sensor and Ignition Pulse) When the green's connected, it brings up code 16 and 35. (Crank Angle Sensor and EGR) When the white's connected, it shows no codes, nor any CEL with the key in the ON position. When both are connected, it brings up code 12, and the CEL flashes. I've done a heckuva lot of searching on this forum, and havent found anyone with my case (mainly the CAS code) and still have the car running. It does idle odd, but thats about it. Plus, the engine is making a ticking/knocking noise, but thats a whole different battle, I believe. I've timed it with a light, at 20 degrees with the greens connected, replaced damn near all of the ignition system (excluding the big expensive parts) and it still idles funny, and these codes keep coming up. Funny thing is, when I'm driving for like 10 minutes, the CEL turns off for a bit, then comes back on and wont go off again.... Am I the only one with this kind of problem or something?!

I'll go outside and take a look for another set of connectors. But then whats the pair of white connectors by the firewall? (like where the greens are on say... an '88 DL) Thanks Miles!

Now... I think I got this right... the green connector is under the dash, right by the ECU. But, is the white connector under the hood, by the firewall?? Or is there another connector under the dash that I'm forgetting? The CAS code (16) was coming on, it was gone for a few days, now its back?! And the EGR code (35) was on ever since I acquired the car, but its gone? CEL turns on seemingly whenever it feels like it... oh and it's a 1986 fuel-injected GL.

The one in my '86 GL is a circle push-button switch, with an orange light to it... I put a new switch on it though, as the original one broke...

just hit 88k in the '86...