misledxcracker

If you have a Legacy, you'd be better off in the New Gen forum... Hey dont complain, i'd take your legacy over my ea82 any day

I love it!

I should've made sure on the GL shifter... you're right. D-2-1. I dont really use the lower gears... never paid attention. Duh... D-3-2 is a 4-speed tranny... sorry. How'd the tranny work out?

23 splines.

Ive had a non-CA emissions Subaru pass the CA smog test. just make sure it runs real well, my GL failed due to the idle being 100rpm high

Yeah, the San Fernando Valley... Even though I've lived in the general area for over 18 years, I still get lost out there There's many parts of Hollywood... you would have been on the infamous Hollywood Blvd. had you been a little more south... Glad to hear you got out of here, and went to a better place

Where did you get lost in LA? I'd rather be in Tucson than here...

You sure it needs to be replaced? I'd just throw a new shaft seal and o-ring in it and call it a day... But, last time I checked, the complete pump assembly was well over $100... maybe I'm looking in the wrong places?

Looking at the 3AT in my GL, and the 4EAT in my XT6, they've got a noticable difference in size, so you should start there... you'll be able to tell. My GL's shifter setup is P,R,N,D,3,2 while my XT6 is the same, except it has a separate button for 1st. If it IS a 3AT... I'd look for another tranny... especially if the fluid is already burnt up... just my opinion :-\

it doesnt really get that hot in sedona...

The drive ratio is the same... 3.7 My XT6 (also a 4EAT) has D-3-2, with a button for 1st. I'm not sure on the length part, but since it's already bolted to an EA82T... i dont see why it wouldnt work. other than the TCU... you lost me there, i have no idea.

I said "dont quote me on that" for a reason.

11 is fine, I believe. But dont quote me on that...

remove the panel under the dash, where the fuse box is... the silver box with the red light is your ECU. search around, its actually pretty easy to read the codes and "decipher" them

i think it may be the CTS... the radiator IS plugged, hotter temps while at high speeds... gotta flush and check stuff. as for brakes... even if the brake booster is PLUGGED... (no power brakes) it still does the same thing...and awfully bad brake pedal travel either way... maybe a hole or tear in the line? ill look tomorrow... im not sure on a check valve... never really had brake issues (except wheel stuff) i'll investigate further through the FSM... Man, but if I dont figure this junk out, in a couple months, I'm registering it in AZ. This smog check crap is... crap. The car puts out awesome emission numbers... passes with flying colors... but they fail me for a high idle on the dynometer ... i dont get it

I'll take a shot in the dark here... not TOO familiar with the different axles, I've only worked on N/A EA82s. All depends on whether its turbo or not... Turbo axles have 25 splines and non-Turbo axles have 23 splines, I believe. When I went to Autozone, they asked me if it was turbo and/or 4wd... they got me the axle on the first try... I think you have to specify, even online. Under $100 at Autozone, and the axle is still being driven on by a friend, 25,000 miles later... plus, warranty

registration time. GAH. eh, so i take good 'ol delilah (my GL) to get smogged... a must-do in CA... fails the test due to the ignition timing being off :confused: but it's not off... seems to warm idle at around 1,500 rpm when in park, about 1,000 when in gear cold idle seems just fine... it didnt put out bad emissions though checked for vaccum leaks, i DO know when the brake is pumped while at a stop, the RPMs drop... but i havent found a vacuum leak whatsoever so far ive replaced the fuel filter, disty cap and rotor, NGK spark plugs, wireset, PCV valve, air filter, and ive cleaned the MAF and the IAC.' I'm baffled!

You reimburse my gas and give me a 6 pack, i'll do it for you

hmmm... im in LA... how far is SB from here?? I can do all that stuff... The axle all depends on if it's 4WD or Turbo, I think... There's a spline count difference. Not 100% on that though.

Personal experience says JUNK. I dont need that website to tell me so A "reputable mechanic" in AZ told me that Lucas "works wonders"... so I said to hell with it, bought some... and put it in. I used exactly as much as it said for 4 cylinders... Drove it for maybe 100 miles, and it blew the rear main seal. Blew it CLEAR out... MMO is good stuff, Lucas is junk. It makes 10/40 oil... much thicker

I'd buy it broken! I mean, its ONLY a little drive away :lol: I want dibs! How much are you going to sell it for?? :brow:

Heck, ANY car over 15 years old has maintenance issues... Go to Autozone and get an axle for under $100, do it yourself on an off day, save some $$$. The oil leak isnt necessarily that big of a deal, but the remedy would probably be resealing the front of the engine while replacing the timing belts... this wont cost you that much, nor is it at all hard to do. I'd say in the $100 range... but then again, I've only sealed up an ER27 (whole different ballgame to an extent) so you may get it cheaper for your EA82 engine. And believe me, if I can do it... I'm absolutely sure you could. New car... hahaha... your Subaru is a baby... drive that sucker for 200,000 more miles! Plus, if you learn the car, and fix things yourself... why be stuck with a car payment? The new car idea sounds great until you have to fight with the dealer for a warranty repair... pay full coverage insurance... and the list goes on... just my $.02

so does this mean the GL-10 goes on the market?? :brow: Nice brat!

when my '74 celica did that, it was a valve of some sort, stuck open... cant remember the name of it off hand sorry, ive rebuilt a carb but know NOTHING about them... used the picture diagram with the rebuild kit