misledxcracker

hahahaha that IS funny

Are the belts nice and tight? Loosen the belts, and wiggle pulleys... Check the fan clutch, maybe the fan shrouds are hitting something? Timing belts may be loose and slapping the covers?

Just making sure the defrost feature will be of as much assistance as the max a/c or Bi-Lev, because I'll most likely have the windows down the whole time, and hot air in my face doesnt seem like too good of a plan to me I've got the good old clutch fan, and also the electric one beside it (it's always been on when the car's on, so that's good in this case, I guess... it may be wired that way by the PO, no idea) My coolant hasnt been changed, but I just may do that now, possibly also flush it out if time permits. Oil's fresh, it's tuned up, timing belts SEEM okay... I plan on leaving around 4 in the morning to get there around 8-9... I plan on taking my time.... no big rush, and I dont want to push the car neither... keep the 3AT at about 3-3.5K... Hopefully the desert isn't too hot by that time... though it's spring time, its still not California weather... and it's not TOO cool out here either... (By the way, I've driven this drive several times, a bunch of times with my old DL which also had a partially jacked radiator, but the LAST time I did it was in a Ford Escort, and I toasted the motor, totally ran it out of water so it's sort of a "paranoia" post, so to speak.) EDIT: Dang it, would now also be a good time for me to remove the mechanical and throw on my XT6 fan I have maybe? Would two electricals beat the setup I currently have?

I'm relocating to Arizona (by Laughlin) from Los Angeles within... a few days to a week. Around 300 miles or so. Involves the Cajon Pass... which scares me most... I'm driving my GL... it has a partially plugged radiator and the silly 3AT... Would it help at all if I blasted the hot defrost up passes? I know to slow down/stop and idle the car to cool it down, once it gets up there... and I'm going to do 65-70 the whole way there, hopefully non-stop, unless I run out of gas or something happens... The car does only have 94K but I'm still sort of afraid, but this move is a MUST and money's tight... Any contributions? Anything I should be looking out for? Car does 30 mile runs every day as it is... no real issues, other than the idle crap.

My bad TPS and also previously, my bad CTS had high readings... so MAYBE in your case, the high readings mean the coil is bad? Hope so, because thats not hard to do at all.... and now I'm going to go check my coil also! (I get this stomach ache that doesnt go away when I hear there's a possibility of a bad ECU... just cant stomach it... hope it's not the issue!)

I've seen those wheels... and that bad arse OBS you have... but, Nice Brat! I hope to see it on the road someday... I'm always around Redondo Beach. Wheels are wheels, I personally dont care what color they are... it's just nice to know there's a lifted Brat in SoCal!

Same thing happened to me in the past. Stinkin hub! Easy fix... sure beats a transmission! Hope it works out for you... it should, once you get hold of a hub.

I jam a crowbar into the flywheel so it dont move, then crack off the crank pulley... The pipe/concrete trick sounds better...

warm up the car to operating temperature shut it off, connect green plugs (should be under the dash, or under the hood, by the wiper motor) turn the key in the "on" position, dont start the car yet push the gas pedal all the way in for 2 seconds, then halfway for 2 seconds let off the gas, start the car drive it around at rpm's above 2000 until the ECS or Check Engine illuminates pull over, check the codes then my '86 idles high on starting... always has as long as it gradually kicks down while its warming up it should be OK check your battery terminals, that was my no-start problem when cold at least

I adjusted the TPS on my '86 EA82 3AT coupe (doesnt throw TPS codes no more!) though I didnt use a feeler gauge... still throws no codes, and did a 40 mile trip no problem. The idle was real HIGH before, but not no more... It wanders from 500-800 RPM in Park or Neutral, feels like it bogs... sounds like it misfires also sometimes. When in Reverse or any forward gear, it bogs lower than that... around 300-500. Turning on the A/C doesnt help it any, neither does the heater. Bogs it down more than it already was. I'm also getting crappy MPG. 142 miles, 1/4 tank left. (unless its just my fuel gauge) When cold, smells like it's running rich, according to my uncle. D-Check throws VSS, most likely related to the speedo cable which makes noise... but I dont think that has to do with idle. NO CEL while normal/spirited driving whatsoever. I plug in the greens and just start it right up, Fuel pump code comes right up. It didnt do that before... I checked the timing, with greens connected, it wanders about 5 degrees from 15-20 or 20-blank spot on the flywheel. I've changed the oil within 200 miles, replaced the gas cap, replaced the plugs with NGK, good wires, disty cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, cleaned the MAF and CTS, adjusted the TPS to where it wont idle high no more, Seafoamed the intake and threw some in the gas, WD-40'd the disty (which it didnt like for quite some time) cleaned the IAC, tested the IAC also... Disty has a TINY bit of play when I wiggle the rotor, only maybe 1/16th of an inch... I'm at wit's end here... I'm very tempted to sell this gem with only 95K to someone that has more skill... because I'm just not capable of getting it to run right... Any ideas?

It passed the smog check. I left the TPS's bottom screw off, and I loosened the top one, moved the TPS around until it idled. I removed the CEL bulb. (Not that they knew that) Went into the smog place, passed. Right after, it started messing up again. Maybe 3 blocks after getting my smog paper, idled at 1500 in neutral. Oh well. I cracked open my TPS... there's little "feet" on the "volume dial".. and where those feet sit on the board at idle... well the board is all scratched up... probably why the problem is intermittant... sometimes it gets a connection, sometimes it doesnt. Either way, I have to get another good TPS, and the car should be fine... Still cant figure out why pumping the brake pedal messes with the idle... also the A/C... cant figure that out either.

my old white DL did over a dozen runs from los angeles to phoenix and back... 700 or so miles each run, put some miles on it! the red GL didnt last long enough, but i took it from lake havasu to las vegas, going back through the hoover dam... 400 miles or so the GL i have now... i've gone from los angeles to santa fe and back... almost 2,000 miles... in 2 days :-\ (thank goodness for cruise control) even though mine always seem to run funny... i still trust 'em to take long trips

use visegrips on the hoses for the fuel filter, or c-clamps even

I'm going to be saying the same thing here pretty soon... Glad the Honda's working out for you.... I'm getting a 3rd gen ford escort myself.. EDIS and non-interference

Those pictures of the rocker train are... disgusting! :-\ Never seen an engine THAT neglected before...

it wasnt a subaru that had the problem, but i've had it... it was the wire, it had broken right where it met the antenna... usually from pulling/trying to get the antenna to reach the deck's antenna port i've noticed it's slightly hard to get a deck in there without an antenna cord extender (on my soob at least) but they're pretty cheap... makes it a lot easier to remove/install the deck too

I seafoamed the car. It smoked like a bat outta hell. Pretty cool! Ran decent for maybe 10 minutes, then threw a CEL. TPS, again :banghead: Now D-Check turns up VSS AND TPS codes. Idles high when warm in Park. About 1500 RPM. Kicks down if I pump the brake pedal. Turn the A/C on, the little thingie on the compressor (the clutch?) does NOT move at all. It used to blow freezing cold, not no more. Turning the air on sometimes drops the idle. The secondary fan is on no matter what, A/C or not. Cold or warm. Hell, the car doesnt even have to be running, and the fan is on. It passed emissions... the "emissions" part at least... just failed the idle speed test.. :-\

..so I FINALLY find Seafoam... after MONTHS of searching for it I searched, but didnt really find any good information A couple things that sorta make me NOT want to use it :-\ But, how would I use this stuff exactly??? I have a crappy LOW idle... maybe Seafoam will clear it up? Ahhh I'm so sick of the low idle and sputtering... So far I've changed: Air filter Fuel filter PCV valve cleaned MAF, replaced and adjusted TPS, cleaned IAC NGK plugs gapped to 0.041 Borg Warner wires disty cap and rotor ran STP fuel treatment the last few tanks NO CEL anymore... D-check only throws a VSS code... speedo cable's clicking though probably needs some grease, maybe I'll have to replace it... :-\ I'm also going to change the oil and coolant. My radiator is turning GREEN in the corner and the fins are caving in! I've gotta pony up the $90 or so for that eventually, right now the car's not being driven THAT far..so I'm not extremely worried about it. Is there anything else other than the Seafoam I should do... while I finally have a good day to work on the car?

No I didnt think you have to disconnect the TPS... ...I just connect the greens. Drove it 40 miles today, does awesome on the highway too Tomorrow I'm checking the relays, the timing, and I'm going to relubricate the speedo cable...

everyone says OEM on the intake gaskets and i'd take off the other head personally.. mind as well

im going to ask this.. and it may be completely irrelevant to my problem... ...but can the timing slip out of nowhere and cause this erratic idle? i havent touched the timing belts on this car, let alone even touch the covers... they only have 34k on them (car itself has 94k with mechanic receipts since '89....) why i ask this? i was just looking at the emissions paper... and it says "incorrect timing"

I put new grounds, as predicted, it didnt do anything. Jiggling the wires to the TPS does nothing, messing with the CTS doesnt do anything, and the TPS itself is just fine. There's NO hesitation anymore, it just idles like crap, which means NO passing emissions for me. Has to idle according to the sticker under the hood, and of course, it doesnt. I'll check the A/C clutch, but I have no idea what relays are what... I did the D-Check parked, and driving. I only get the VSS code. The transmission was flushed. It used to have a problem shifting when cold, hasnt had a problem since the flush. I'm going to read those sections in the FSM now.

ran d-check correctly, got VSS and TPS codes cleared codes, now i only get VSS... my speedo cable is making noise daeron suggested making grounds... i'm going to do that tomorrow

Got it! I remember my 88 had "check engine"

I ran a D-Check... and nothing. I've cleaned out the IAC twice already, if I have to, I'll get another one at the junkyard...