misledxcracker

Under the rear of the block.... rear main seal? I've even had a head gasket go out on my old XT6 and all it did was spew oil...

Argh, another coupe owner with fin rot on the radiator... I cant go 70 unless I'm blasting the heater :-\ Yet, it never overheats in the city, ONLY on the highway... but even then, blasting the heater wont let it hit the H

yeah, i emailed the lady about that one... can't go wrong if it's only $50, she wanted $200 before

There were a couple auto 4x4 ea82's over at the pick-your-part in wilmington, if you're willing to drive and pull it... another option

Now HE might get the coupe, and I'll hopefully get an EA81 wagon! I hope...

Ew! And Ouch!

Gotcha. Hmmm... I heard something about the crossmember not having to be swapped... I'm gonna go look again

Alright, after a couple months of slacking and letting the 3AT kill itself slowly, I'm going to follow through and get this car swapped to a five speed. Problem is, theres nothing on front wheel drive swaps for EA82's... What all do I need, to do the swap from FWD 3AT to FWD 5MT on the EA82?

My goodness, I have a new goal. I want one of those! Honestly, I'd spend the six grand for that if I were inclined to... from what i've seen, it's not cheap shipping ANY car from overseas... Argh why couldnt I have magically landed a job at Microsoft three years ago.... magically.... ahhh

I want an EA81 wagon like that for $75 Nice find!

About the same here man...

The cams are lined up properly, but when they're lined up, the flywheel line doesnt line up with the mark... Is that bad?

make sure the engine isnt smoking, hey even with low miles it's possible tune it up, get the check engine light off if it's on make sure the timing is correct, for sure (i failed because of 2 degrees off) the day of the test, drive around and get the gas light to come on, put in a gallon of so of denatured alcohol in the tank, drive it into the shop and you should be OK

LMAO

Thanks! I had a feeling it has to do with the timing belt; they're the only thing I havent replaced. Plus, the pass. side timing belt had a lot of slack, it was pretty loose. I'll take off the crank, take off the rest of the outer timing covers, and have a look at them this weekend.

Ive been having idle issues again... If I'm stuck at a light and I have to sit there, the car will idle really low after sitting for a second in Drive with brake applied, so bad the volt gauge drops some. The longer you have to sit, the more it drops, until it gets to about 300 RPM, then it'll just sit there until you can drive on. Car doesnt stall, as a matter of fact I've never had the car stall on me once. :cool: Then just today, the car's starting to idle high in Park, like 1500 RPM... drat. Checked passenger side heads again: They're burnt AGAIN after like 500 miles. Here's a question. Say my cam timing is off, or my T-belts are loose. Can I still get a 20 degree reading on the flywheel, even if the cam timing is off? Can that result in one head's burning plugs? Let's see. I"ve cleaned and tested the IAC. I've tested and replaced the TPS. CTS is practically brand spanking new, though I still tested it. I put the correct metric vacuum hoses on, and everything's nice and leak-free. No, my Subaru F.I. intake boot thingie's not missing. I've Seafoamed it twice through gas and intake. I replaced the vacuum modulator on the transmission. I've changed plugs and wires. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, and PCV valve. What gives?

Wow... just went to a transmission shop (i was recommended to go there by a REALLY cool local mechanic that's done work on my Soobs before) They say the 3AT is expensive to rebuild.... at $900 for the overhaul. Ouch! (oh yeah, i did a size comparison before, and that 4EAT in my old 2WD XT6 wouldnt have fit if I tried.)

It can be shipped to my work... How much would it be?

I already KNEW that. I know why it's doing what it's doing, I'm wondering about rebuilding it, not "how long can i drive on it until it blows"

Another 3AT thread, figure I'd start rambling and trying to figure things out Okay, so I decided to take myself a nice little 30 mile drive up to my friend's house. Last time I tried this, the gear oil got OUT somehow and it REEKED badly on the whole drive back home. I believe it came out of the dipstick tunnel because the dipstick was popped out and was so hot i couldnt grab it, but ehhhh I got AAA to cover me this trip, so no worries. Get in, start her up, and take off. First gear is a pain to get out of when cold, and at times wont "grab" like it should. When cold, on takeoff, the 3AT will sit there at 2K RPM in First, like "what am i supposed to do? oh yeah, go FASTER..." then it eventually .... sorta goes. I tend to shift it manually when cold. Then, I get no slipping, cold or not. And it's just more fun! But oh man, like I told Daeron earlier, I LOVE how this transmission shifts when it's warmed up! Shifts around 2.5-3.5K depending on how i punch it... Awesome drivability! I got up to my destination, no problem. I then later on drove back, same thing, cold shifting = PITA, and manually is the way to go at that time. Warm, and runs fantastic. Hell, I didnt even smell 80w90 at all this time.... I didnt check the dipstick... but at least the smell wasnt there, probably meaning it didnt do the same thing as it did last time. Maybe that gear oil smell issue was a rare one-time occurrance? I've basically tracked down the cold shifting issue: It's most likely my governor. I'm going to sift around JY's and salvage yards for another governor. I'll clean it up, rebuild it, etcetera... and do the same to the other, if it's reusable. But, *drum roll* I can smell gear oil on the ATF dipstick. I havent taken it to a transmission shop, but that gear oil smell is DISTINCTIVE, and I know it's getting in the ATF. Since I've had bad luck with sourcing another transmission to replace it, I'm leaning towards a... *go ahead and cringe now* a 3AT rebuild. But, would I need a complete rebuild? All it does is mix the fluids, nothing erratic whatsoever when warm.... If it werent leaking 80w90 in the ATF, I'd drive this 3AT to NY and back. I'm thinking... maybe I can get that seal replaced, that seperates the ATF and gear oil.... at a shop, due to my incompetence. What should I say when I go to a transmission shop or three for estimates? Like I said, I dont think it really needs a rebuild, it's got 96K, even young for a 3AT indeed. I think it only needs that seal, and maybe a flush? I need ideas, as once this transmission issue is sorted out, I have a really big feeling my baby's not gonna give me major issue for quite some time

I'd check out the oil pump seals. Bad oil pump would register at 0 all the time, wouldnt it? 45 at warm, 0 at idle is about the same as mine. And I've got to reseal the oil pump again for the 2nd time in a few months. Drat. Oh yeah here's something to keep in mind: Subaru gauges can tend to be unreliable. Nonetheless, sealing up that oil pump is good preventive maintenance, and it'll keep the engine from ticking music in your ears . Seal issues on the oil pump wont cause your car to overheat from my experience. Maybe get some new gauges and tap them in?? I've had a coolant loss problem when cold, because of the pressure build before the thermostat opened, and there was a pinhole leak on the radiator itself. This may be your issue indeed. This is a good time to first get your cooling system pressure tested, find your problem, fix it, and verify that everything else is up to snuff. Letting it warm and it reaching 1/3 wouldnt alarm me. If in doubt, get yourself an OEM Subaru thermostat and a gasket.... replace it. I wouldnt worry too much about that though, get that coolant loss taken care of first. Transmission cooler? I wouldnt bother. Good luck to you man, chasing down the demons can be a PITA, but in the end you'll have a damn good car, trust me and all the others on this board

Now that I finally found out that 2 core radiators are available for EA82s, I'm in. I'm definately buying one.

.044 is OK on the plugs from what i can tell... i run NGK's with a .044 gap. When my car had a rough idle and even started to misfire after awhile, it was a vacuum leak. I'd check around the intake for hissing noises...

Or use the wrong size, and some zipties!

Thanks Nipper and Gary, I get it now... Yeah, the wire is pretty bad, but I took some wire brush and electronics cleaner to it, the wire looks good now. I also put a new ring connector for the hot wire, yet that plastic boot was melted, and broke on me. When I had tested it with a meter, it said it had AC current going through it. Maybe my meter is crap, I dont know, but the three tests passed fine on it. They did say at the auto parts store that the alternator was just fine, but the plastic piece thats under the hot wire bolt is all burnt So I guess it was just because of the bad wire: The alternator overloaded, but at the most only 45 minutes to an hour. I also have that warranty in case of another REAL failure