misledxcracker

Use one of the two on the right, and ship me the one on the left I say the ones on the left myself.

Yup, you need Mexican insurance. Dont forget it! You'll be in a load of trouble if someone hit you...

Dont sleep with the fob in your pocket! Go outside to realize either the car's dead, or out of gas... I've done that once on a rental car, at that!

You know, if that were mounted in the back window of a wagon somehow...

Due to the situation, I'd say the $200something is worth it, as long as the car itself is running OK. Subarus with bad radiators are no fun. Blasting the heater in the hot weather, cringing while driving up steep hills watching the temp gauge... ahhh Dang, this is all reminding me, I better get a decent radiator soon before I try to cross the 120 degree Mojave Desert, aye? edit: unless you CAN find one cheaper, then thats better!

I'm voting for the aliens

Order the radiator online

The voltage regulator regulates power to the coil, right? I think...

Oh man do I remember that airplane sound that comes from a bad bearing

Remember, the VR is internal in these alternators also...

Wow, I like the wagon. Sweet!

Subaru's tend to not like to run right or at all without an alternator.... but that's EA82 experience, maybe try to hook up the alternator and see?

I dont know if this is bad, but I don't run a back V-belt on my '86 SPFI. I've driven it up the wazoo and it hasnt given me trouble, yet anyway. Mine's got the AC in the middle and the alternator to the right of it, EASY alternator swap. The tensioner had seized up (bearing shot) so I just left it off, and the belt too. I suppose the second one's for backup in case of one breaking? The V-belts do run the water pump... Oh yah, my A/C runs 100% perfect on one belt, with no squeal. Timing belt runs the oil pump of course... maybe the oil pump needs a reseal? Mine ticks too, whenever it wants, and for as long as it wants

Ahhh... Bugs. I'd mount a cupholder under the radio like Daeron, thats about as "OEM" as I think it gets...

My '86 wont start... .....when I take out the "position" fuse. My old '88 DL wouldnt start a few years back, I was uninclined back then.. I had it towed and had the mechanic look, it was that silly "position" fuse. Later I'll see if it gives me spark... maybe if it doesnt, it IS the Crank Angle Sensor fuse.. hmmm

I THINK it's the Crank Angle Sensor in the distributor. Without that, car wont start. Or it could be a Cam/Crankshaft Position Sensor, but I dont know if the EA82 has these sensors or not.

I know the car wont run with the position fuse out..... Probably a kill switch of some sort.

I have a 1985 model date coupe... the thing's got the old PCV hoses. So wait a minute here... I can go to a local Subaru dealer and have them install the PCV kit for free, aye?

:lol:

Actually, one of my buddies used to be a service writer at a local Ford dealership as well. They gave him overtime up the wazoo, paid him awfully well, but he still quit. Hated hearing the people complain and try to get the price cut down!

Exactly why I asked you to smell the automatic transmission fluid. If it smells like gear oil, the seal between the front differential and the transmission either seeps or blows. Usually happens when either oil (atf/gear oil) is ran really low, or previous modulator failure, resulting in the transmission being ran on low or no ATF at all for some time, which is no good of course

A screwdriver to loosen the clamps, and maybe something to pry the hoses off the old filter. I used a flathead screwdriver myself, but there's other tools you can use of course. Might want to use a couple clothes pins, vicegrips, or something else to clamp down the hoses behind the filter's inlet and outlet, so you dont get gas everywhere. Be careful! The fuel filter is on the driver's side, close to the wiper motor area, held into place by a big "clip", you cant miss it once you have your new fuel filter in hand, as its just a big cylinder looking thingie with a hose on each side of it.

Carb cleaner helps

OEM PCV valve, new PCV hoses if needed (usually dry and brittle) Wix/Purolator oil filter, no Fram whatsoever Plain NGK plugs Plain NGK wires Leave the coil unless it's dying STP air filter Cap and rotor, I just get what fits If it's an auto (I dont know) get a Napa transmission modulator for good measure. Seafoam the intake, it may smooth it out some more. I personally keep regular Castrol GTX 10/40 in my car. No need for high mileage stuff IMO.

Why would a steering rack fail within 2 years?