misledxcracker

I thought you lived up in the forest

Could even be the intake manifold gasket. When I have mystery coolant leaks, I yank the thermostat, and pressure check the system. I've never done this on a Subaru, so results may vary.

All of my Subaru's that I've had before and now tend to smoke a little in the morning because of condensation... some people freak out about that stuff, so you never know until you see it.

Drive up to Flagstaff and register it up there? No emissions

I didnt know where to post it, so redirect if you must. There's an 4WD '82 or '83 (didnt look) EA81T coupe in the junkyard out here (Wilmington, CA) and it has 100K on it (cool digi-dashes BTW!) Everything's there, the engine turned freely, oil was clean brown, coolant was... evaporated I think. I dont know... I just feel horrible that an EA81T with only 100K is sitting in a junkyard where the car will be scrapped probably soon :-\

I have this emblem I yanked off of i think it was a '87 GL-10 sedan, but it's not like a normal chrome emblem, it has a black border around everything and the stars are positioned differently... Oh yeah, and the emblem donor had a KPH only speedo. Is that JDM, Canadian, or just normal? I've seen a boatload of Soobs and have never seen an emblem like it.. Coming up next, retrofitting one of those STI Blue Star emblems in the front (Seems like it would work with a tad of filing, anyway) Then to find an RX kit, rally wheels, lower it,

If the paint looks good, I might want to paint my coupe royal blue

There IS no PCV valve code for the EA82 Your oil pressure sounds OK, but I'd recommend resealing the oil pump, it's prone to blow out the seals sometime or another, then you get the TOD... After resealing my oil pump, mine sits at 45-50 hot. I had an ER27 that blew the headgasket and decided to only leak oil out and all over everything... it COULD be possible. Rear main is also a possibility, but my experience wasn't too bad with rear mains, it didnt leak a whole oil change in a week, thats for sure... Plus, you'd KNOW the rear main went, because the oil would hit the exhaust OEM on the PCV valve when you replace it!

The idle screw on the TB shouldnt really do THAT much screwing it in and out, but I"m not sure, as yours is a turbo. You look in front of the ECU, there's a hole in the front with a red bulb. Complete opposite side of where the wires plug in.

Do a D-Check. Connect only the green connectors, turn the key in the ON position, push in the gas pedal all the way then let it out to halfway for two seconds then release. Start the car and run it above 2000 RPM or take it for a cruise. Once the Check Engine light illuminates, stop and look down at the ECU, itll tell you the codes.

I've timed it before... perfect 20 degrees... And at TDC it points at number 2

At 20 degrees on the flywheel (or flexplate i guess) the rotor points towards #1 (towards the MC) but at 0, it sits the complete opposite way towards #2. I've driven the car like this since I've had it, wouldnt it be pretty thrashed if it were THAT much off?

It points at the #1 wire, when the flywheel's at 20 degrees. So, is it right, or completely wrong? I tried swapping the wires so #1 could be first, and the car wouldnt run. Wont run any other way, actually.

I sorted out the plug wires, and noticed the coil red/black wires are kinda corroded. So I cleaned them some, and it seems to be a bit smoother, but it's still misfiring a little bit. Cold or warm it misfires. The shaking went down a little bit, but it's still there. Spark looks a tad fatter after cleaning the coil contacts and wire connectors. Hm, maybe I should just assume since it's 21 years old, it's going to shake and there's nothing i can do about it. :-\

It's supposed to line up with the #1 plug wire when the flywheel is showing those three lines, right? Like when you line up the cams? Or is it supposed to line up with #1 when the flywheel is set at 0 degrees? Right now, lined up with 0, it points at #2 wire

Firing order is 1-3-4-2 CCW. Maybe the rotor is pointing at the wrong one, or would it matter?

I dont have any flanges behind the cat... no flanges at all. Either the whole exhaust comes off complete, or it wont drop. I'd have to unbolt the Y pipe and carefully drop the whole thing

AW c'mon, dont forget the 85-87 SPFI

Ahhh... thats a sweet wagon... I have a soft spot for the GL-10s...

har har har

My pretty much new exhaust (minus y-pipe and cat converter) is completely welded. No bolts or flanges unless I want to drop the whole thing it's gonna be TONS of FUN when i have to drop it to swap the transmission Never even thought of the O2 sensor, I'll check it out.

And quite the recipe for a ticket. :-\

It doesnt seem to run bad... it can still do 85+ without THAT much issue... tuning the TPS to specs sure made a difference. It mainly shakes at a stop... only seems to misfire at low RPMs... Timing is perfect.

There should be a diagram for your car and alarm system online somewhere, giving you wire colors... look around. That's how I've done alarms and stereos in other cars, anyway.

So since I sorta got out of working for awhile I've been messing with the car. '86 SPFI 3AT coupe. The idle isnt necessarily what bothers me anymore, I cleaned the MAF up with CRC, I replaced the IAC altogether today, tuned in the "new" TPS correctly with feeler gauges, screwed out the idle screw some, sprayed carb cleaner all around to reveal no leaks, ran a D-Check and all I'm getting is a 31, which SHOULD be irrelevant to the problem... Oh yeah, I've Seafoamed it a couple months back and I cant think of one tuneup part on my car that arent more than 3,000 miles old. My timing is dead on, the pulleys are on correctly, I just replaced the belts, actually. Havent done the reseal yet :-\ Anyway, the car shakes and misfires. It wont stop. I cant stand it. Why why why why does it have to shake and misfire so much?!?! Anyway, while I was under the car trying to clean off all the grime in front of the engine, I noticed my cat converter has a small hole in it, and it tends to make a vibrating noise in the morning. There's no heat shield on it, so that cant be the case... Can the cat converter cause this puh-puh-puh out the exhaust and the shaking? Or if it aint that, what could it be?! I've replaced so much, I cant figure out why it would still act like this... It's been almost 6 months, this car hasnt rode smooth since ownership... I'd love for it to do so sometime soon! :cool: