misledxcracker

Hell, mine won't start sometimes... Totally intermittent. I have to jump the starter with a wire when this happens. Wire is stuck in between the terminal and connector on the starter, so I dont have to reconnect it every time she dont wanna go. And I'd LOVE to figure out if I can fix it and leave it completely STOCK, no add of relays or pushbuttons or any of that other BS. I'd spend the $$$ to do it... just have NO clue where to start.

I've had 49 state cars pass California smog. My old '88 sedan was a 49 state car, and it passed with flying colors. All depends on who you go to, also. I'd go with the Legacy personally, and later on get an older one to have.

Put the key in the ON position. Unhook terminal connector in the back of the starter (no bolts, just pulls off) Get a piece of wire, hook it up to that terminal. Take other side of the wire, tap it on the positive terminal on the battery. Don't leave it on there, maybe for a second or so. If the car starts, either rig up a switch to start, or do the starter/relay trick, though I don't know it.

She's at a shop. That roll pin is coming out, whether the air chisel does it first, or the torch.

im just gonna take a torch to it... no way in hell is that pin coming out. I got a punch stuck in one end, then me and a buddy decided to try to punch it out from the other side, and whaddaya know, same crap happened, punch broke off. im nut and bolting the axles; this roll pin crap is ridiculous.do I have to get a special kind of torch, or will any one work?

Oh wow, thanks. Sure helps the problem a lot. Maybe his finger will get the broken piece of punch out?

well, stupid me got a wrong sized punch stuck inside of the roll pin on the tranny end. then, stupid me broke the punch, resulting in roll pin expansion. and icing on the cake, the real punch i needed didnt punch out the pin, but "morphed" the broken piece of punch and roll pin together, so it looks like one piece. what in the heck do i do?

Replace the entire axle.

I got the PCV valve OEM, that's absolutely the ONLY way to go. It was just a tad under $20 IIRC. Totally unrelated, but same goes with the 3AT's vacuum modulator, OEM all the way.

oh man that's freakin awesome and hilarious

I'd go for it, as long as everything is looked over REALLY well before the trip and all checks out okay. I've taken my '86 SPFI 3AT coupe all over the place (13,000 miles in five months) and not much has gone wrong, except a few small things that can still wait to be fixed, while I still daily drive it.

All the smog places I've seen out in SoCal anyway, had the dynos. The dyno computers even transfer the results to the DMV automatically right after the test completes There's ALWAYS ways around it though; paying a little "more" can get you a smog certificate. Or, California will pay you $1000 to "retire" the car... but that's a LAST resort, I know damn well I would'nt sell my Soob to the state!

Smog checks in California are more stringent than they were in '02.... My '86 GL EA82 coupe failed, and it was running great like it does now... They failed me because my ignition timing was "off", well how would they know, when they checked the crank instead of the flywheel

1. Replace the PCV valve with an OEM PCV only. 2. If the engine came out of an early model (i.e. 86, 87) you'll want to "update" the PCV hose system, as the early ones suck oil into the intake on hard turns (mine did it all the time). I got mine out of a '92 Loyale, and all is well now.

Could be leaking from the governor cover... Can't think of much more than that, or the pan of course. Check the side of the trans where the governor is, and if there's leakage, you'll notice it. Otherwise, it's the pan. It's easy to keep it from leaking; Wish it were easy to keep it working well :-\

:lol:

Nice score! (Gah, I want to move to NM sooooo bad)

I've blown a Ford Escort up by driving it without water, I had forgot to put on the radiator cap when I filled it up, and still got about 200 miles with no cap. All of a sudden, the temp gauge went to COLD. I kept driving it for about 20 miles... Then, two valve seats dropped, I blew the head and the head gasket, snapped the timing belt, and destroyed the timing belt driven water pump. Luckily, I had a towing package on my insurance, and it only costed me $40 to get it the 80 miles home. And I fixed it Stupid me! If the only reason the wagon was overheating was the heater hose, I would've bypassed the heater core, and threw on a jacket or three until I got to the nearest place where I could have got a new hose. Garden hose works too, I've been stuck doing that before... I couldnt tell you if it's a permanent fix though, as I replaced it with normal hose about 300 miles later.

What can I say, I'm bored. "Multi-million dollar business" + webpage hosted by Google Pages = WTF? Those multi millions can't get you your OWN domain name? It's not that expensive, you got multi millions, remember? I want to see pictures of these "suede" doors and all this "pimp" stuff you did to the wagon, but it seems that all you have are "before restore and mid restore" pictures. And I'd put money on it that we'll never see "after restore" pictures. By the way, the "Dual" CD player you have in the car is a CHEAP stereo. So you did suede interior and slacked on the higher-quality system? (By the way, I looked it up. Your ISP business doesnt even exist. End of story.) You're not a spoiled brat, subaruguru was wrong, you're just an idiot. Not a spoiled idiot, but only a plain ol' idiot.

There's a new-gen forum. Why all the babble about new-gens in the old-gen forum?

mmmmmm.... nog.....

For the second time, BS.

i put "el soob" on mine... it kinda makes sense i think...

I'm gonna have to agree with GD here... Though I LOVE my coupe, I'd never sink $7,000 into it. $2,000 maybe, but never past that. You must have one damn damn nice wagon if you put that much into it... Plus, if you own a multi million dollar company.... whats the use of even caring whether that car got crashed or vandalized or what not? I mean come on, multi millionaire...

My '86 coupe just clicks.... whenever she wants Cold, warm, whatever. Doesn't change oil pressure whatsoever... Drive thru's are FUN when she is in her "ticking mood" as it kinda scares people, especially the cashiers 102K, oil pump and seals are A-OK, Mobil 1 10-40, Mobil 1 oil filter.... I tend to turn the dial up on my 12" bass tube, it seems to alleviate the problem Oh yeah, and my old '86 sedan, same thing, low miles and maintained, ticked and ticked and ticked... new owner is probably still driving it, ticking and ticking