misledxcracker

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TPS possibly, have you checked that? I know when my TPS was out of whack, the car wouldnt stay running + revved high if it DID run...

just registered mine in Arizona, screw the smog nazis

I recall a mechanic friend of mine reading the codes off of my old DL... with a Snap-On code reader of some sort.

No turbo on mine, and cheapie gas in my car

Not one single chain store around here has cap testers to borrow, they only sell them... Another good way to find out if your cap isnt holding pressure AT ALL, is to slowly and i mean SLOWLY undo the radiator cap a bit, once the car's up to normal temp and shut off... If you hear hissing or even a small popping noise, then it's holding some kind of pressure... If you can get the cap all the way off with no hiss or pop noise, no pressure... That's just what I learned from someone else, and it proved tried and true in my case. (BTW please dont try this test if the car runs too hot... a shower of hot coolant is no fun)

I've noticed it takes longer than just a few minutes for the oil to completely drop back into the pan... more like ten Then again, if you're topping off the good old 16 gallon tank from empty (our gas pumps here get slow some times) its more than enough waiting time, to check oil right afterwards Me personally, I just check it in the morning after the car's been sitting, just to be 100% sure

also! make sure the seals on the cap arent cracking, just pull them outwards with your finger, you'll notice if the seals are cracked... my car used to always run sorta hot, until i replaced it, then no more of that!

I went to my ex-fiance's senior prom myself (i had already graduated) but i had a '93 camaro z28 back then.. i got in an accident that night

if i know what you're talking about correctly... is it the cam case o-rings? those are readily bought if so... i'll find a link

No idea on the AC as I dont even use mine... But, I'd replace the O-rings, dont put sealant up in there...

If you burn it, be sure to take video!

use a socket (i forget the size, i think its 1 inch) to hold the oil pump rotor in place while you remove the pulley.

well, what im going to eventually do is... take a few days off work, for one then i'm just going to yank out my windshield in my driveway do the repairs, and get it either replaced or put my old one back in if i can... the rust isnt really bad at all, i was able to fit some silicone in it to prevent leaks for the time being, it should be easily covered... and oh yeah, i would leave holes in the back where it leaks in the hatch, but ehhhh

i covered it up with RTV silicone for the time being... youd get a pic of a bunch of silicone blobs it looks similar to what heartless' wagon looked like on the windshield area.... but not as bad and the rust in the back looks just like the wagon did on the USRM writeup... again, not as bad though

Cheap insurance nonetheless, I'd replace them anyway... Hmmm... I'm baffled. Hopefully someone else can help you on this one... Good luck!

Did you replace the terminals? Do they stay on tight, are they looking crappy? Are the battery cables loose on either end?

I couldnt find anything relevant to what I want to ask, maybe the "similar threads" will help me some, i dont know... anyways, yesterday, i didnt drive my car at all, and the windshield was just fine. i go out just a few minutes ago and theres a HUGE crack, about a foot long on the windshield i'm not sure whether im going to replace the windshield, going from my searches, 3 door windshields are the most expensive... maybe i can get it "repaired" ?? i've heard of that before... there's a decent amount of rust in the bottom area where the windshield meets the frame... on each side. nothing in the middle from what i can tell. rusted straight through... you can even see through! (ive been told that the rust could be what caused the crack, the bottom end of the windshield is exposed and the gasket and corner piece wont stay on...) also in the trunk (where the jack would go, except on the passenger's side) there's rust also, even a nice little hole i can see through on the panel. there was a reinforcement beam there too, it got eaten away. i dont know how to weld, i dont know anyone that welds, i dont have access to a welder in the first place, is there ANY other way i can repair this rust without welding?

Sure the amp's not cutting on even when the deck is off? Is the alternator belt loose? Alternator and battery checked? Maybe the grounds need to be cleaned?

okay, first off, its a 2wd just to let you know in case it would matter. after i got back from Arizona, my car's been making this ODD creaking noise from the rear wheel area when im driving slow, braking, getting in/out of the car... theres no play in the wheel bearing, already verified that. i can bounce the car up and down with a lot of force all day, and sometimes it will, but sometimes it wont make noise but just today, i did notice if i BARELY push the car downward and i mean BARELY... itll make that darned noise! sounds JUST like an old car door opening slowly, you know... that creaking noise what gives?!

same here... i'm not paying no stinkin 100 bucks for no bearings, and its a PITA to get them out of the hub in the first place.. +1million on the junkyard

did this method with my old escort... get a guitar string (the thinnest one) or a piano wire, and broom handles (or something of that sort) poke a hole in the corner of the windshield gasket and stick the string through screw down the string onto the broom handles and just start yankin'

aint that the truth!!!!! mine's got dingy paint, rusty wheels, AND rust holes to boot.. and she's SO pretty! now... let's see that RX...