misledxcracker

Some get an itch for a new car, buy a new Kia, and dont even get 25,000 miles out of it. Sounds like me Blazer's are tough little Chevys. If you have to, go for that.. while you save and look for a good Subaru

Thats the whole point! It's really a joke...

Aw man... I never find a good radiator for mine at our local JY

I have a 3AT... so in that case I usually keep it at around 70. But... I've got mine up to 110... downhill, on I-15 coming out of Vegas... and it was revving really high... scared the crap out of me sorta And I've taken a DL 5-speed about 120... same hill on I-15

It's all about where you are man... you're in WA state... I'd turn down that car in a heartbeat! Out here though... I dont know about that. We get these dealers that sell '84 corollas with 400k on them for $3,999 I've actually never seen a subaru of our vintages sold at a dealer lot...

Easy 140HP in an EA82: carbon fiber wing = $200 rice muffler = $25 carbon fiber shift knob = $15 decals = $4 each

sounds fun! here's my '86 GL coupe: 1986 GL... 2WD 3AT original SoCal car, yet has the hideous windshield and rear quarter panel rust... some body damage, already found bondo .... dents here and there, front and back bumpers pushed in, blackish silver steelies Thing is... I cant help but love her... only 94,000 miles on her! She still looks wonderful in my eyes regardless of bodywork! I've turned down a girl on the whole "either the car or me" thing... she's never being sold! Planned is fix the body work, get an XT dual-outlet muffler, factory mudflaps, RX body kit, some Superlites (if I can find some) and possibly get new pinstriping and decals

I'm going to get a set of feeler gauges tomorrow and give it a shot.

My thoughts exactly!

with the top screw unscrewed slightly, the car runs awesome. screwed in... it runs like crap. ahhh this car's making me grey

on one TPS, i get continuity from terminal A to B now, from simply unscrewing the top screw. when i tighten it, no continuity. on the spare, no continuity at all, so i guess junk that one. All the resistance on the other tests are higher than normal, though. and thats on both of them :-\

terminal A and ground, no continuity with throttle open or closed terminal B and D was between 6.50-9.50 opened/closed B and C was between 3.00-5.00 opened/closed i set the meter at 20k ohms, no other setting would register at all bad TPS? me still doing it wrong?

Now I kinda think I get it, maybe I was doing it wrong. Correct me if I still am. I have to put this in more simple terms, as I'm idiotic in this subject. I'm not afraid to admit that As a matter of fact, I'll print this once it's official that I am right OK... Turn car on. dont start it, right? Unplug connector, use TPS pins, not harness pins Check terminal A and ground for continuity, i should get infinite... then I crack the throttle open some, and should get good continuity. Terminal B and D should be between 3.5 and 6.5 with opening/closing of the throttle. Terminal B and C should be less than 0.1 when closed, greater than 2.4 when open, and should go gradually down with gradual letting go of the throttle Then yeah, the wiring, I think got that part. Use the FSM for reference on the ECU pins, test for continuity from the harness to the pin on the ECU, using long leads. I have those. Correct away, if need be

I'll take it to a shop. Tired of trying to hunt down this problem when I completely hate electrical in the first place. Some people just cant pick certain things up, electrical stuff isnt my thing.

Alright, I finally tested the TPS right... I must have been doing it wrong last time... i checked continuity between terminal B and ground and got between -00.6 and -00.8 i checked between terminal A and B and got -1 i checked between that green wire on the check connector and terminal B and got -1 my meter shows 1 on the left side when no leads are touched, but -1 is the same thing, just with the negative sign... BOTH of the TPS's do this... does that mean both of them are shot?

You guys get the no-emissions zones.... lucky!

Awesome! I got three of the wires located already, I just need the fourth one... I'm pretty sure that the fourth one is a ground, but which one?

unless you really want a justy or are willing to ship a tranny from somewhere else... i'd pass.

found the pinout! thanks daeron! now for some cursing and making dire attempts to operate the meter

the driveline? 2WD 3AT. mileage? varies, around 17-20, but I dont expect much more (thanks 3AT) limp mode? must look into limp mode...

+1 on the slipping rotor, check that screw!

I had a previous thread, but I figured heck, why not start a new one... I got code 25 on my '86 GL SPFI coupe a couple/few weeks back. Oddly, sometimes it'll come on, and sometimes it wont. When it does, oh boy is there a dead spot when I floor it... when it's not on, I'm flooring it without a hitch all day Previous thread I posted about the TPS, Gloyale gave me some awesome tips... I tested the TPS and the terminal B wire... and it came up good, but I figured hell, why not have a spare, who knows... So I got another JY unit, and it's also good, I'm STILL occasionally getting a code 25. I could run the car until the light comes on, pull up in a parking lot, shut 'er off... wait a minute, start the car... and the code doesnt reappear for another period of time... ranging from 15 to 30 minutes. Does anyone know, or have the pinouts so I can check continuity on all four of my TPS wires?

I'd imagine.

make sure you test that TPS... because i thought mine was shot for sure, but it was the wiring...i had the TPS code also... you try to floor it from a dead stop and the car acts like "hey im not working THAT hard for you"... heh heh