brus brother

Please explain as I am getting the 0420 code regularly and the dealer attributes it to local ethanol gas. Be nice if I could use some "Mechanic in a Bottle" to fix this issue.

Good old fashion snap traps baited with peanut butter works for me whenever and wherever mice are problematic.

Weston, just inland from Westport. For the first 4 days homes had 97% power outage. There were trees down over power lines on just about every road in town. See ya on 95, or better yet, I'll call you if I need a HG job:banana:

Congratulations. And you finished up before hurricane Irene smacked the stuffing out of us. We only got power back today. 7 days no electricity, no water, no sanitation and worse of all, no internet... no USMB!

Hey GrossGary, I was in W. Va. a while back. Pretty sure the money (or jewelry) is mine. PM me for address.

Congratulations from the cheap seats!

Use the USMB Search function: "front end clunking" There are numerous posts with numerous suggestions and remedies. On my 2000 Legacy GT, there was a Subaru fix that dampened the power steering lines. In my case, it was a hydraulic knock (I described it as a clunking sound) but as I bought the car brand new, it took SOA time to acknowledge and then come up with a fix.

I've started to notice the sound and see the bushing wear on my 05 OB with 110K miles. Would the pieces wedged in be expected to stay in place? Is there a downside to this "mod"? Haters responses welcome.

Use the Search function. IIRC, there is a part made by Nissan that is compatible. I will try and find the earlier post. Found it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22394&highlight=leaking+windshield+washer+fluid and Post #6 talks about inside rear pillar on his MY http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20595&pp=10&highlight=rear+washer also use the Search function: "leaking rear washer"

"Leaking sunroofs" is yet another saga dealing with inadequate sealant around the sunroof. Try the Search function as it has been discussed on the site elsewhere.

Any chance you are in need of new brake pads?? Does the chirping sound go away if you step on the brake? If so, it may be the sound of the wear indicators, also known as "chirpers".

Caution young grasshopper, spray where you see all the oil gunked up and try to stay away from sensors. The purpose is not to use as much of the product as possible but to judiciously clear a path. You don't need to get the engine sparkly clean at this point. Until you eliminate all the leaks, perhaps you can start a sideline business sealing asphalt driveways by parking there overnight.

How's about cleaning/degreasing the entire engine then start looking for the source?? Search from top to bottom. You may very well have a number of source points.

Immediate family now owns 4 Subarus, so here's some tire feedback: I ended up putting Yokahama Avids on my 08 OB last year. Not great in snow and a little noisy cornering. The "noisy" 05 OB mentioned in the initial posting just got 4 new Kumho Ecsta LX tires. The alignment was off on 3 corners of that OB and since everyone else here was convinced there must be something else in the suspension causing the cupping on the Triple Treads, I had yet another shop check the car out and nothing else was found defective. In the end, I can't say whether it was the Triple Treads or the alignment but the cupping/noisy ride became intolerable for the wife (she then made it intolerable for me). With the alignment done and new Kumho tires, the ride is now VERY quiet. I've yet to drive the Kumhos in winter yet. The other plus for the Kumho Ecsta LX is that it is non-directional and would allow for more flexibility in rotating tires. I was told by the installer that the Z rating would give me fewer miles on the tire. I still wish there was a sticky for tires on USMB. It is an item that will predictably need replacement and I am more comfortable with the feedback here than on manufacturer's or retailer's websites.

Did you use genuine Subaru or aftermarket axles. Aftermarket axles have been reportedly associated with many unwanted conditions i.e. vibrations, shuddering, your wife leaves you, you get mugged, just to name a few.

From what I've read and been told on this board, you only monkey around with the rear sensor(s). I have no experience with the mods you did to your engine. Mine was stock all the way.

I know I saw someone on an online board who bought the "O2 Sensor Fix" already drilled out on FleaBay but I don't see any for sale that look like the ones in the descriptions below. I asked a friend with a drill press to do mine and it seemed to go smoothly although you could do it freehand. Here's a how to: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-requests-questions-tips/215795-5-o2-cheater-non-fouler-how.html and a lengthy discussion: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-requests-questions-tips/114931-how-install-spark-plug-anti-foulers-remove-ses-cel-light.html Hope this solves your problem. PS General Disorder is more knowledgeable than I so follow his lead.

Jeff, You said to do Both sensors behind the cat. There are two before (upstream) two behind (downstream) the front cats and the fifth one on the rear cat. Are you saying you did the two downstream sensors but NOT the one on the rear cat? It's been about 2000 miles since I last cleared the code. (probably throw one tomorrow)

Father in law stopped by and said he had taken his keys for a swim in the ocean but the remote still worked! I suggested open and clean with alcohol and change battery (same as most pc batteries). I tried pressing the button 6 times as per manual and online info but while the remote lights up when the buttons are pressed, there is nothing unlocking/locking. Egg on my face! I even tried going into program mode and see if it recognized the remote but nothing. SOLVED: Retraced my steps. Synchronizing didn't work as before but this time when I went into reprogram mode, it recognized the remote and all was good.

Check your insurance policy. Many policies have glass replacement w/o deductible. Mine does for about $20 per year that I was unaware of until my windshield cracked for the first time. Fingers crossed.

Or as Subaru technicians refer to it: Battery Kill Switch

if you run your hand over the surface of the tire (along the edge in my case at least) you'll feel areas of wear then not then wear like the edge of a scallop shell. What everyone is saying about suspension makes sense as the tire is bouncing on the road (wearing the spots where it hits) but no one told me the shocks were worn and the rest of the suspension seems ok with the exception of the rear bushings which I may change out myself as they seem pretty easy. The question I have about that theory is how the tire knows how to hit the same spot when it's bouncing??

Everything is stock. The car was hit on the left rear bumper that required about $500 worth of repairs. Didn't check alignment at that time BUT timing (about two years ago) might be about right for when I first noticed. Related?? Following are the before and after alignment specs. BTW Tech said everything was rusted solid (thank you NE salted roads) click on thumbnail below

I provided the tires, they only mounted ($40) and did alignment ($70).

Well today I had the dealer mount and balance 4 new Kumho Ectsa Plat LX and do an alignment. I don't have the readout in front of me but all 4 corners of the car were in the red zone and greened up nicely after alignment so I guess the 4 corners were fighting each other as the car was skipping down the road. The tech who I trust explicitly said the front bushings were fine but the rear ones were stiff. "Keep an eye on any abnormal wear and replace those if noted". So for $119 total installation/alignment I am pretty happy. The car rides great. Dealers can get bad raps but here I have to say, thanks Dan Perkins Subaru. (Just wish I got an alignment before I sent the Goodyear Triple Treads to an early grave!)