brus brother

I'm sure Anthony gave you the full parts list but back to your initial complaint... gas caps are cheap or better yet, you can always "borrow" one from Autozone, clear the code and see if the code comes back. I know you are looking at a rusted mess and would like to deal with it but I think proper diagnosis comes before treatment of your initial complaint, Code 0440. Monkeying around with the filler neck if it is not contributory to the code thrown may further complicate the diagnosis.

Same here in lower CT. on the coast. Actually I think last year you got more snow than us.

Contact http://subarupartsforyou.com Speak with Anthony and mention the USMB site. It's an actual dealership w/ online pricing.

When the filler neck on my old GL rusted through, there was a noticeable gasoline drip when the tank was fueled to the max. Clean out all that dirt and junk between the shield (probably best to do without the shield) and you should see dampness on the filler neck at the very least if not an obvious drip. Do the diagnosis before you start throwing parts at the car. As others suggested it could just be a faulty gas cap.

Just found that Tirerack doesn't list the Assurance Triple Tred for the 08 OB because it has H speed rating as compared to original equipment V rating. I was pretty happy with the TTs on my 05 OB but that setup matched the original speed rating of H for the 05. Drats. Any suggestions?

Need new tires for my 08 Outback at 46K. Northeast driving, so All Season tires are in my sight. OEM V rating. Love yours or not?

That's OK, just return it to HD with a big smile and a thank you very much:banana:

From what I've read many many times on this site, you're friend may have made a very poor choice going with Autozone. If you do a search, there is one other manufacturer other than original SOA that gets thumbs up for replacement axles. Otherwise, there seems to be a fair number of vibration problems encountered with aftermarkets. It must be true, I read it on the internet...

1. Loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap. Keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn't overflow while compressing the piston. If you haven't topped off the brake fluid between changing pads, you should have some room to play with. 2. Loosen and remove the lower bolt and swing the caliper up. You can use a bent coat hanger to hook onto the caliper and hook it to the suspension while you are working. Now that you have both hands free take a look at what you have before you. 3. Take off the outer and inner pad noting orientation and where the "squealer" is. The replacement pads may not have a "squealer". You may have to pry the pads a little. 4. Use a C-clamp to push the piston in to make room for the new and thicker pads. You can use an old pad to protect the piston if you want to be extra careful not to damage the piston with the clamp. 5. Place brake grease on the back of the new pad where it will contact the shim. 6. Place the new pads as you had removed the old ones. 6. Release and remove the coat hanger and slide the caliper down over the new pads. You may have to rotate the lower pin a little to align and get the caliper to close. 7. Check fluid level in reservoir and tighten cap. Oh yeah, almost forgot, from my own book of mistakes, you will likely have used the c-clamp to push the piston in to make room for the new thicker pads now allowing for a little play so don't forget to pump the brakes up before you go tearing out of your driveway!

http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=105416&mode=linearplus if you believe the internet, up to tighten (see link above) another procedure description below: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676114

Isn't there a "flat" side to the part that the pin bolts into that's supposed to snug up against the caliper and keep it from spinning? It's been a while since I was in that deep...

REMEMBER that if you decide to go with the old equipment, you have to pump up the brakes since you have pushed the piston back.

sent PM with phone #

and in Greenwich it's more like platinum

Bridgeport to Greenwich... whoaa... movin' on up:banana:

1-3-2-4 I see you are CT local . Try Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford. Exit 35 on RT 95. AKA SubaruPartsForYou they will give you the online price as a walk-in. Ask for Anthony or John and mention this site.

Update: I found the Rain X Weatherbeater at Walmart for about $9 has the same locking mechanism. I removed the blade from the Rain X arm following the Subaru directions for blade replacement (if they actually sold one this would be useful) and slid it into the old Subaru wiper assembly with the wind wing and it works great. The Weatherbeater is a natural rubber blade and not silicone if this is of any interest to readers.

I have a 2005 Outback that has the winged wiper on the driver's side. The local dealer says the only way to replace the blade is to buy the entire arm at $25 (he admits it is ridiculous) or I can buy a replacement arm that doesn't have the wing (I could buy essentially the same thing at Wal-Mart for $5). The original blade has a locking mechanism built into the rubber since the arm doesn't have any "stops" to prevent the blade from sliding out. Has anyone found a solution for this or anyone north of the border know if the rubber insert for the original winged arm is available in Canada? Update: I found the Rain X Weatherbeater at Walmart for about $9 has the same locking mechanism. I removed the blade by from the Rain X arm following the Subaru directions for blade replacement (if they actually sold one this would be useful) and slid it into the old Subaru wiper assembly with the wind wing and it works great. The Weatherbeater is a natural rubber blade and not silicone if this is of any interest to readers.

Before you jump through hoops why don't you go into the dealer and check out another 2010 to see if it behaves the same as yours. You just may have a problem system/speaker/whatever that would be best left to the warranty coverage before you start monkeying around with splicing and dicing.

Thanks for the advice esp. davebugs. I called the shop and they came back to fix it. In addition to removing the interior panel, they had to take out the rear lens assembly where the glass had worked its way down into. YIKES! I would have been at this for a long time. BTW, those two top "fasteners" are dummies. The piece is held on in other areas from the sides. NOTE: The rear gate latch assembly on this 08 that is kept in a garage is already rusting!

Yeah, they cleaned up but there were bits and pieces down deep in the nooks and crannies that they "overlooked".

Wasn't going to attempt it barefoot either. I've already attached a small rubber tube to the end of my vacuum and if I can just get that friggin panel off I will be in every nook and cranny until that dang maraca band stops playing in my car! I may end up taking it back to the glass shop to have them remove it and drive home to clean it and leave it off until I'm sure it's all out.

So after the rear glass was replaced the glass left behind by the repairman is driving me nuts in the rear gate of my 08 Outback wagon. I see there are 4 press in anchor fasteners along the lower edge of the interior panel that should pop out but there are two round fasteners at the top with a square interior that have little locking anchors that seem to snap into place. Before I take a sawzall to it, what is the trick to releasing these two top fasteners?

Scotte6 asked: "How difficult is it to replace a tranny?" Translation: Drive to Mount Vernon, WA (where Markus lives), leave keys in ignition with nice thank you note and Markus will have it done in just a few words...

Is there a sure bet oil filter other than the original subaru for my 05 outback non turbo?