brus brother

Also called the battery "kill" switch by Subaru techs as it will surely kill your battery if left on long enough... good for business...

2008 Outback automatic. Occasionally, in the AM after the car has sat overnight, I turn the key and nothing happens. Instrument panel is lit but car doesn't start. The car is in park in a level garage. All I have to do is push the automatic shifter the slightest bit forward and the car will then start. I brought it to the dealer checked the shifter and said that the "hole" was lined up and they were at a loss. It was suggested I leave the car overnight. Aside from inconveniencing me, I'm not sure what this will prove. Once they try to start the car and IF it happens to occur and verify my solution of pushing the selector forward, what will this prove? Any thoughts?

Anyone have a problem with surface peeling on the interior door handle area of their Outback? The 05s and up have a matt black finish on the handle that started to degrade as a slight bubbling and then could be rubbed right off. Now the same thing is happening at certain areas on the silverish trim in the same area. No cleansers have been used on the area and since it is the face surface of the handle, it's not even where your hand would rest when closing the door.

You may be interested in the above link to a friend's project car(s). Good luck with the new car. The size looks much more in place in Denmark than here in the US where others drive assault vehicles. ps what is the estimated mpg and what is your current price of gas?

:lol::lol:

I don't suppose that comes in a spray can...

Hope it isn't the ebay wheels...

I guess fear of toasting this 2 stroke engine is my greatest concern. Since there is no way to drain the engine and get rid of conaminants, any bits and pieces that come loose can cause some damage. Hate to admit but it might be time to pull the heads and have a real good look.

Zefy. Even spraying fuel right in, bypassing the carb, it "seizes" until it cools for a minute then can start again. Starter is stronger than I and even that won't crank the engine.

Car sat for 35 years and was seized up when I got it. I was able to free it up using Marvel Mystery Oil lubrication. It starts right up but the engine seems to seize after about a minute. Starter won't crank engine but after allowing it to cool for 30 seconds or so, it starts right up again. Without possibly misdirecting you, my thoughts are that the rings are not floating on the piston or in some other way binding so that the heat of expansion once the car starts causes the pistons and rings to seize against the piston walls. Any thoughts?

Suabru 360 (I think it's a 1968) starts, runs for minute or so then dies. After waiting a few minutes, it will again start, run for a minute or so then stops again. Any suggestions (other than use the car for only VERY short trips)? PS Car has been off the road for 30+ years and is trying to get back in the race... 60 mpg!

But seriously folks, as Uncle Nippy said ONLY genuine Subaru wires to be certain.

Quote: Originally Posted by Buick350X our 01 Forest runs funny when we get a heavy ran, but is fine the next time you got to drive it. You just have to be easy on the gas or it sort of misses. Nope, it "misses" therefore it would be SheShe:banana:

Who died?

I spoke with Subaru of America rep a few weeks ago regarding the HG problems and was told that Subaru is now introducing a new blue formulation of coolant that doesn't need to be changed or flushed for at least 10-11 years and 137K miles. Late 2008 and 2009 models are shipping with this already in the pipes. The explanation was that it contained purified or distilled water without other contaminants they feel are the root of all evil in the coolant system.:-\ Alls I know is what I'm told... Check it out with your local dealer... or Google.

3 words... High Test Gasoline! $$$ YIKES!

I just bought a 2008 OB 2.5i automatic with 22K miles that had been a rental car for $18,000. Clean as a whistle. All Subaru warranties remain from date first brought into service. In my case that means I have another 14K miles and 15 months of the 3yr/36K mile bumper to bumper warranty and the same 5yr/60K mile warranty from date of introduction to use. This thing has enough bells and whistles to be its own band. The warnings about timing belts and other maintenance on a high mileage car should be calculated into your purchase price.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm Have a look here. I recall a TSB about leaks at the courtesy light area. This site is interesting in gaining a heads up on possibilities as warranties near expiration. If you have any hint, get it on a service record before expiration.

When first started, my 05 OB has all of the grace and charm of an outboard motor. It quiets down after a minute. I complained when the car was new but was advised this was "normal".

90 LegWagon is correct about the unfriendly face plate design for the hvac/radio in the 2005 OB. There is a link floating around on this site to a handyman fix but it entails some rewiring and soldering of the original unit and likely not for the squeamish. It recreates what my 2008 OB has standard (see below). I believe SOA came out with a new design faceplate for the 2005 that might make swapping doable but I don't know the cost. Check with a Subie parts dealer for availability. Our 2008 OB has an aux jack in the center console and an aux setting on the head unit as well as 12v outlet in center console so the likes of Mr. Shiny IPod stays out of sight.

:banana:Happy Anniversary:banana: Battery terminal: How about shaving down the connector where the two ends come together. This will allow it to be tightened to a smaller diameter.

In this gas mileage hypersensitive time, I am wondering about the impact of various style tires. After ordering Goodyear Triple Treds, I read one review that stated that the "loss of 2-3 mpg was OK considering the improved traction". YIKES! This seems extreme. Has anyone had this experience with these tires or other tires?

While I recall mention of Forrester right rear bearing issue, I don't recall others. I will have it checked nonetheless.

"200" was a bit before my time;) but I did own an automatic 2000 Legacy GT wagon. It had the EJ25 engine. It is an interference engine and timing belts are changed by 105K miles or sooner under extreme conditions. External headgasket problems continued until mid 2003 I believe but Suabru provided for an extended 100K miles/8 year warranty if they added some stop-leak goop to the coolant system.This HG issue, while not as bad as the late 90's internal HG issue was a continued black eye for SOA. I had my transmission replaced twice under warranty. The first was an issue of delayed engagement apparently common to my year. When going from reverse to drive, there was a noticeable lag before engagement. The second time, there was a ticking noise. SOA doesn't repair transmiisons at the dealerships but ships rebuilt ones to swap in. All that having been said, it went to 110K before being totalled by the insurance company after an accident. It would have gone another 110K if they had repaired the damage. I got 22 mpg on average and considered it a fine ride. Good luck.

Hey Nippy, OK on the tire balancing. How about alignment? Same monkey business? PS I think I followed your lead on the Triple Ts.