brus brother

Well that first procedure will take some time! I don't quite understand how 3-400 miles and of ?what? kind of braking:eek: would matter. 250 miles... keep going, you're not there yet??

Seems like proper order then would be: 1. Starter kit to get the "going" aspect predictable 2. Soon afterwards, the brakes to get the "stopping" aspect predicatble If you've already changed a transmission, these procedures are fairly easy. All the above tips and hints are great. I bled my brakes with a friend lightly depressing the pedal 2/3 and using clear tubing going into a plastic water bottle. What I have done when bleeding the brakes (without the kit) is to make sure there always is a little brake fluid in the water bottle and the tubing submersed in the fluid to be sure that you don't suck air back up when releasing the pedal. The only time I replaced rotors was when I had vibration. The wisdom being that making the rotor thinner by grinding would lead to early warpage again. There have been numerous discussions here of the "warpage" actually just being deposits of brake material. It takes me about 1 hour to change all 4 pads and I have been OK without changing rotors on my later year subies. When pushing the plungers back into the calipers to make room for the new fat brake pads, I use the old barke pad for protection and a big C-clamp for compression. In your case, the car has some years and exposure to the elements to account for so rotors probably wouldn't hurt. 30% remaining pad is a fairly substantial pad left so braking difficulties such as a spongy pedal are likely due to need to bleed brakes. Don't forget the proper bedding of the new pads. AFTER you have determined that you have good braking abilities then properly bed the pads against the rotors. This involves a series of quick stop and gos (the article I read said from 50 to 0mh) making sure not to stop long enough for the pad material to cook onto the rotors. Then just park the car and let everything cool down. Walk away, boot up computer and learn more on USMB.

Oh, high quality artificial...

Slow down puppy and step away from the torch! Have you seen and followed the following link for tips? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80226 I don't know much except that my Subaru just HATES an open flame. I am really just stalling for time until someone more knowledgeable stops you from hurting yourself. Good luck.

But when had you last filled up the gas tank?

Yet, you say... no doubt there are risk takers out there... The cost difference of a discounted Subaru filter at $14 and STP at $11 could potentially send shock waves through the subprime mortgage industry already leaning towards collapse. I'm not sure I can live with the risks of losing the house especially since the garage is attached!.

As in the title, is there a significant difference between Subaru and STP air filters for my 05 Outback?

Outstanding! That'll teach you to go lapdancing with deer.

Dear Madam;) Just this week I was in a Subie dealership where a customer was receiving instructions on the facts of life regarding gas caps. The tech reminded her to tighten the cap until she heard it click three or four times. This is obviously not a gender specific issue;) as gas caps show no overt signs of discrimination. Hope this helps.

Yup, changed over to winter air today!

wild guess... new clutch?

you betcha, search "Toom Bumper" on youtube.com

I know this is not Subie specific and I will probably be banned to the Off-Topic board for life but I couldn't stop laughing and wanted to share.

The "kill battery" switch gets us all one time or another. Having passed the "Doh" test, feel free to have head gasket issues anytime you want now.

Try moving the front tires to the rear and see if the steering wheel shimmy stops. If so check tires. If not continue to dig.

no

Zacklee:grin:

Wish I could help but I speak, write and read only Japanese:grin:.

Worked like a charm. Followed the description emailed to me from AVK to replace the inner boot without removing the axle entirely: Punch out the pin. Unbolt sway bar link from control arm, and control arm from crossmember at the forward mount. Then there's enough play in the aftmount to swing the wheel out from the bottom and knuckle with halfshaft far enough for the joint housing to slide off the stub shaft. Pick out the large c-clip inside the "can" with a screwdiver or even your fingernail and then you really do need a c-clip remover to get the small c-clip off the shaft end and then the three balls are right there to clean, clean old grease out of the can add grease and reverse order to get her back together. When you put it back together, tighten the control arm and sway bar link bolts with wheels on the ground, or at least on ramps, otherwise the bushings will be twisted. Other boots seemed fine so I decided to just do this one AND I had access to a lift. MWE, Subaru axle rebuilders with good prices and great help, suggested that inner torn boots were more forgiving than outer and worth a try and seconded AVK's approach.

Exactly how I would proceed before running in circles, screaming and shouting.

I have a 200 Legacy GT 2.5 4 cyl auto and that's about the same mileage I get. I can use 87 octane in mine most times of the year (a little knock in summertime). If your's is a manual trany you could expect better mileage. I've read that a failing front O2 sensor can worsen performance.

alt

I run the tubing into a small bottle with brake fluid in it so there is no chance of sucking back any air.

I am confused. My driver's side cv inner boot is torn and have never done a boot or half-shaft change. Is it really possible to remove the half-shaft from the transmission without separating the shaft from the wheel and replacing the cv boot without removing the half-shaft from the car?

Clogged radiator? If you replace the thermostat, genuine Subaru is recommended on this site.