brus brother

I agree but start off by being nice. (see my response to your other post)

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm This takes you to the NHTSA site. Your recall was a voluntary recall and good will warranty extension. I would call Subaru of America and plead your case. State that you had smelled the anti-freeze for some time (over a year? and 9,000 miles ) but since you never noticed any puddles (the leaked fluids would be evaporated on the hot engine) you didn't make much of it. Perhaps they will extend their good will (your family has been loyal Subaru owners for many years) they will at least share the expense with you. Be nice. You may be surprised. Good luck. PS If you are the original owner, or registered with SOA when you bought the car used, you should have been notified of the recall. The warranty extension only applied to those who took part in the recall and added the stop-leak to the coolant system. If all else fails and you can't afford an immediate repair, you might want to try their "fix" and add the stop leak. Others might warn against it as potential for clogging the radiator but this is what SOA did to all of the vehicles in the recall.

Do a search on this site. There is a defective solder joint to a resistor. There are detailed instructions on how to locate and repair if you are handy. There is even a board member that had been repairing them for others. Search and ye shall find.

There's been a few discussions on this site for drain and fill vs. tranny flush. It appears that doing the math, you would need to drain and fill 6 times in order to replace ALL of the tranny fluid from all the nooks and crannies that would otherwise remain and simply be diluted with each subsequent drain and fill. At that rate, the cost of doing 6 drain and fills yourself is a wash with getting a flush done by a shop.

What did the dealer show you? Might help future searches if that info is tagged to this question. Thanks

This may be the result of the "battery kill" or "virgin switch" . There is a toggle switch on top of the steering column that turns on parking lights. See if you or someone else hit it by mistake. If so,, you are no longer a "virgin".

Me too... but I remember reading that there is a lifetime warranty regarding seat belts and who knows but it might include the alert system... hell, free is good!

Warranty issue

Aren't there "chirpers", those little metal tabs on the brake pads, that rub on the discs once the pads have worn to the point of required replacement? Perhaps that little birdie chirping is trying to tell you something.

Once you get the judgement, you can sieze wages and freeze bank accounts Any cost of doing so or using a marshall is added to the judgement. P.S .employers don't especially like marshalls showing up at a place of business and then again, tying up someone's bank account usually gets their attention since they can't withdraw money (they don't realize this until they've deposited a check or two). The court works. Just stay within the statute of limitations, be professional and prepared and follow the steps.

Are we sure it is a HG leaking oil? That vintage leaked coolant externally as I remember and the replacement HG would have been covered up to 100K/8 years. Is it possible that the valve cover grommets around the spark plugs are the culprit? This is a common problem with that year. If it is a HG leak, is it possible that someone put some "stop-leak" in oil? Is the warranty transferable? How much of a headache can you tolerate? Ask the inspecting mechanic to demonstrate where the leak was... was the engine cleaned since his inspection?

damn you're good Nippy!

If factory installed, SOA should be able to identify by VIN the level of "equipped".

For those of us on the east coast try SubaruPartsForYou.com That is the online cheapo parts department of Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford CT. Very informative and great service. You can actually do a walk in and buy. Ask for Anthony or John and mention this site. You might also do a printout of any of the online sites and ask for a pricematch at your local dealer. The prices are basically what they would charge any repair shop so there is still some profit for the dealer.

OK call me a Nipper-ite but I have to agree. Don't muddy the waters by trying anything! Take it back. If you have documentation that admits to possible incompetence, all the better but you have the right to have it done correctly. The mechanic should be given the opportunity to repair it OR refund your money and refer you to a competent repairman. If all else fails, notify him IN WRITING and give him a set time to respond, say 2 weeks, and then take the car to a reputable repair shop, document the repair and sue the original mechanic in small claims court. It's a relatively simple process but you need to make sure that you can't be blamed for any bit of shared liability by tinkering around with it yourself... you are not an expert in the eyes of the court. I just took note of your location so while it might not be called small claims court in Ontario, there must be a similar venue.

Good diagnosis and should this be brought to attention NHTSA for recall/warranty consideration?

Likely, the wiper arm is loose. Reposition, retighten and away you go. Wife loosened mine by trying to push heavy snow. The nut releases instead of cooking the motor.

Agreed. Compared to my 00 GT, the wife's 05 OB is a sloppy ride.

Do a Search. There is a clunk from the steering hydraulics AND a SOA fix that provides for a a dampering of the fluid to prevent the knock. This may be what you are experiencing but mine was noticeable from day 1. Is this car "new" to you?

I used a company called Dent Wizard and watched them work. The techs use a series of flat pry bars that they slip down inside the door and finesse the dent out working from the edges inward. Obviously, if you can get at the dent from inside the door panel you should be able to massage it out if the paint hasn't been cracked. Go slow... the fastest orchestra isn't alwys the best!

I used a company called Dent Wizard and watched them work. The techs use a series of flat pry bars that they slip down inside the door and finesse the dent out working from the edges inward. Obviously, if you can get at the dent from inside the door panel you should be able to massage it out if the paint hasn't been cracked. Go slow... the fastest orchestra isn't necessarily the best!

19" Passenger side 21" driver side... you mean the top of the outer side of the windshield or right straight on top? Inquiring minds still want to know... any play when wipers are off?

Common things happen commonly... That having been said, I had a 94 with gas smells and it was in fact as Skip notes, the corroding filler pipe right iniside the rear wheel by the filler tube. There is a "protective" shroud that covers the lower part of the tube. It traps mud and crud and is just the right environment for rust. SO, even if your problem is related to the cannister under the hood, get under the car and flush the crud out of this area.

Nippy, I think he means that the arm travels too far in the up AND down swing. Have you checked that the linkage and the attaching nut is secure? Is it noticeable just on one side? Correct size wipers... I guess this might not be as critical but just asking questions... nosey, huh.

What I hoped to infer was that while the suggestion to change the PVC was a cheap and easy fix, by rattling the valve, you might also be able to immediately differentiate whether the PCV was the problem and not just another of many things that should/could be done. By the way John, your ! key seems to be stuck or dragging.