brus brother

Unless you have one of those special one man bleader kits with a check valve, this is generally best done with a helper. Was the end of the hose submersed in a bottle of clean brake fluid so as to not suck air back into the line when you let off the brake? Depress pedal slowly but not to the floor completely? Tighten the bleed valve and then release the pedal? Took me a few tries to get it right. I don't think yours is an issue of pads and rotors either.

My 2000 AT was replaced under warranty at 35K for known problem of delayed engagement and then at 50k under extended warranty for the pinion gear noise and then again under extended warranty at 76K for a clicking noise. Putting a used one is like marrying someone else's ex. You may be in store for some suprises after you spend hours tranny swapping.

So, are the lights dim enough for you now?

Automatic tranny? Pinion gear on my 2000.

Tshe first time replacement was likely before the newer design HG?

Unless of course a non Subie tech actually drained the AT fluid and unwittingly overfilled the oil. I don't recall if you specified manual or auto transmission. If automatic, for peace of mind, check the AT fluid. If it is only a case of overfilled oil, I have also had Subie techs overfill my oil (generous fellows) and simply took it back for them to adjust. Lesson learned... check your car after service. As to a brake job at 30K, some drivers ride the brake and can result in early wear however, before I started doing my own brakes, I had "aggressive" mechanics sell me brake jobs long before actually necessary. Lesson learned... learn to do whatever you feel comfortable with and you'll have no one to blame but yourself.

I will PM my address for delivery:banana:.

Do I at least get the second place prize?

Looks like Howard's broken clock will be part of a Fresh Air Fund summer vacation in Alaska! Cheers to Cougar for his housepitality.

I know whay you mean... as soon as I finish labelling my 8 Track tapes, I too intend on moving up;)

Tried it all on my 2000 Legacy GT, cooler plugs, higher grade gas, Scientology...no difference. It's just another sound of summer. I get the feeling there is a missing link in the sensor department that would adjust for air and humidity...

.. and this is a common sequel to oil changes??

I know, I know... you accidentally drained the AT fluid and have now overfilled the oil. Additionally, you drove 200 miles home for lunch and cooked the transmission. Your only option is to make an appointment with Pep Boys to replace the transmission and reset the rocker switch on the steering column to the ON position so they can replace the battery while you wait.

If you've already decided to send it to the trash heap, what can it hurt to open the bugger and see what's wrong? You may get lucky and find that simply powering off the unit completely will reset a memory or you may find a disc jammed up. Remember, it's already broken... you can't break it!

Common problem is using home made cds with paste on labels. If you open the unit and discover one such cd, the unit may not yet be toast.

Does the radio work? Possible... DEAD battery? Get new horse.

How's this?

Alternator.

Can't use the parts or the car but the pizza sounds good...

Known defect. Speak to dealer.

If your 1990 car ran well in previous summers and now it's not, likely carbon buildup is culprit, unless you got a bad batch of gas. Obviously new plugs is a good place to start but then conisder top engine cleaner.

Is that a SubaChrysler or a Chrysleroo??

I personally wouldn't use aftermarket for an issue as sensitive as HGs since even SOA original spec failed. Likely aftermarket followed the original spec if anything. I believe there is a difference with the redesigened ones though. Did you have the heads checked by a machine shop for warpage?

that's a go with throttle up...

8 years. Talk to the dealer. They don't mind doing work if they can justify it. They are paid by SOA and it's more work for their shop.