brus brother

Alls I know is what I reads in the funny papers... The following link is the one I was referencing. Keep us posted.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9821

Any chance fuel pickup related? Earlier post on related question suggested trying reverse up steep hill to see if problem occurs as fuel delivery would be gravity fed. If not a problem then fuel delivery is suspect.

Pine scented air freshener, or was that damaged in the mild altercation? Having seen the original pictures, I still think you could have buffed out the damage. Seriously, good luck going forward (not end over end).

Congratulations. You passed the crash test!

With a smirk, subie techs refer to this as the "Battery Kill Switch".

Alternator.

Bandages?

What GBHRPS said... lower window, grasp rubber riangele and you'll feel metal framework within. Squeeze gently along the edge and test drikve. Repeat until happiness arives.

Gussets (traingular piece) at the leading edge of the front windows? Use the search function on this site as it has been covered. Does the noise change if you play with the window, pressing out or pulling in?

... just a flesh wound:rolleyes:

Look carefully for source of leak. Removing the timing belt cover should make it easier to see if the water pump is the culprit. Can you keep an eye on the radiator and hoses to see if they are the culprit. While this involves some "down and dirty" time of your own, this sort of diagnosis may remove the guesswork. There is also a dye that can be added to the coolant that can be detected under UV light.

Find a new mechanic. Proper installation using genuine SOA parts as well as shims and anti-squeal grease that comes with the pads has always worked fine for me.

If the boot is broken, CV joint grease sprayed onto exhaust or for that matter, any other dripping oil can produce some pretty nasty smells. Clean engine and then check for leaks and any dark burnt on areas on the exhaust.

I assume your car was recalled and the additive to extend HG warranty to 100K miles / 8years? Check with SOA that this recall was performed. If you are going to change the coolant, be sure to add the Subaru additive to the coolant and keep a record of the purchase and mileage so as to keep the extended warranty valid. NOTE: check on this site for nuances of refilling and bleeding the coolant system. If not done properly, you can cause air pockets that allow for local areas of overheating and ... yup, you guessed it, HG failure!

Not exotic but ... plug wires? Once, when young and in a hurry, I did a 6 hour drive averaging over 90mph and the next morning the car ran like crap... changed wires and all was good.

Great, and if by chance the former owner is Ebineezer Scrooge, a pantheistic agnostic or Islamic fundamentalist... you're toast!

Check the owner's manual. I think there is an allen key wrench that can be used to close the moonroof. It may not be effective in your case as it may still rely on the same "scissor" mechanism to actuate the closing and if this is the case:banghead:... as you already mentioned.

Can you tug it gently and give it an assist to close until someone more knowlegeable chime in?

As per your post, if you find antifreeze pooling on the outside of the engine, why do you think your leak is internal? The 00 models are prone to external HG failure right at the area you describe and SOA extended the warranty to 100,000 miles and 8 years (did you get a notice?) IF you allowed them to put a conditioner (some sort of stop leak) in the coolant. Get the codes cleared quietly, have the conditioner added and then go back and let them determine if the HGs are failing. Is the 140,000 mileage you quote in miles or kilometers?

So will they now be changing the HGs anyway to replace the pistons?

There is a dye that you can add to the system and check with a UV light for subtle leaks but your's seems like it should be fairly noticeable with the naked eye. The 2000s were part of the external head gasket leak crowd and I think the principal offending area was at the rear cylinder on the driver's side. It may be cooking off on the hot engine and therefore not noticeable but again the volume you mention seems pretty significant. Look for crusty staining on the engine and check for external leaks while the engine is still hot.

What year and model? Sounds like an internal leak. Any vapor out the tail pipe? Any history of overheating?

Probably all the cars they couldn't sell here.

Yippee... I love a happy ending.

This might not be the right forum for this issue but since the issue of headlight power and glare is on the table I'd thought I'd add the following: after many years of puzzling how to eliminate glare from headlights, I Googled polarized headlights and was surprised to find that in the 1920s Edwin Land (think Polaroid Land camera) had proposed the solution by polarizing headlights and windshields or glasses that would solve the problem. http://www.polarization.com/land/land.html Finally dismissed in the 1940s, 2 lane highways and low/high beams were deemed adequate solutions, and the rest is history. Likely I am not alone when it comes to that uneasy moment of looking to the side of the road to avoid the glare. The expression "it goes without saying" only holds if no one says anything. There oughta be a law... OK, Rant over... ban me to OFF TOPIC.