brus brother

As a test, pour water into the drain hole at the front bottom of windshield on the side where you experience the leak. If you see the water drain out and under the car, you've eliminated that as a possibility. If that's OK, then, tape off various sections of the windshield and hose down the car to see if and where the windshield is leaking.

The 4 aspirated (non turbo) runs on regular gas, the others require high octane.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8399&highlight=service+manual Check the above link to a posting by Legacy777. Points your way to many FSM and other links. Happy hunting.

There are drain holes right in front of the windshield on both passenger and driver sides. Open the hood look in the corner (there's a small depression) and remove all the leaf and other debris that is likely clogging the hole and allowing overflow into the air intake. If this doesn't solve the problem then start considering a broken or separated drain line that comes down from the sunroof (if the car has a sunroof). I think the line Tees up with another drain line and it becomes disconnected. Use the "Search" function on this site as others have dealt with this problem recently... no need to reinvent the wheel.

Well, if it works out, get them to replace the transmission ($2500-3000) which might have been a weak link at your mileage on an automatic anyway and you're good to go for another 150,000 miles. Keep on drivin'.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23974 Linda, The above link was referenced at the bottom of your recent page under "Similar Threads". I know you're new to this game but if you look through this and use the "Search" function of this site, you can come up to speed pretty quick and get enough ammo to not be dismissed as the "little gal". Are you certain that when the tow driver hooked the nose of your car up that he didn't have the rear wheeels under a tow dolly? If you are certain that it wasn't towed with the rear wheels on a tow dolly, then be emphatic when speaking with the owner of the towing company, not the driver. The advice of your insurance company might help but I wouldn't rely on them. Get documentation from Subaru that even improper towing even just a mile will cause certain damage. Ask the local dealer if they would test drive or how they would test. I just called my local dealer and the service manager seemed to think that if it wasn't already noticeable, it would soon be... sorry for the bad news.

Seems like the "standard of care" for towing Subaru automatics is on a flatbed. You might have recourse against the towing company for damages.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#05%20legacy%20program%20remotes Check out he above link for info regarding disarming alarm. Also, I have read about "disconnect negative, key on position, reconnect negative terminal" and it seems like a cheap and easy fix if it works.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/memberlist.php Hi Linda, Check the link above. Then click on "search members" (right of page above State) then click on Advanced Search and specify Pittsburgh in the city as a qualifier. There are two pages of members that specify your home town but there may be others on the site that didn't enter that data in their profile. If you scroll down, there are some that have numerous posts. They apparently are either very helpful or very lost. At any rate, we are all on the road to find out... If no one happens on to your post and you remain at a loss, try and send an e-mail or Private Message to one of these scoundrels.

OK Linda, since it seems you've decided to take up with this lot here, the next thing you want to do is start a thread and ask if anyone knows of a good independent Subaru mechanic in the Pittsburg area. I think you've made a wise decision to hold on to the car. Good luck.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ I think you'll find the wiring diagrams for your car at the site linked above. I hope you can figure out where to go from there to wire your lamps in.

I had the whining in the 40-50 range and while SOA was busy telling me it was within normal limits (?pinion gear), a clicking developed in the tranny in neutral that required they change out the tranny. This is the third tranny in my 00 Legacy GT. Thank you for extended warranty!

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html Check this link.

Also check valve cover gaskets and bolt seals. Clean enigne and check for other leaks.

I read somewhere that the later production 05 Outbacks have a split unit that can accomodate your needs. Perhaps contact SOA to discuss.

Seeing is believing. Mine were replaced under an extended warranty. Not sure of the cost. I guess they had to do valve cover gaskets and the spark plug seals at the same time.

You might want to contact by PM or email SVXpert on this site. He has a shop in Souhern NJ so would probably be able to guestimate pretty close to Md.

Seems like the right vintage as when I started to have problems with a fuel line leak in the same area (90 Loyale). There are several fuel "noise dampers" in the line from the tank. They are about the size of a stack of 5 quarters and appear to rust through. I just removed the one leaking just forward of the tank from the line by removing the clamps and installing a filler piece in the line. Have a pencil handy and shove it in the rubber fuel line from the tank to keep the gas from leaking out while you hook the splice piece into the other end and get it ready to reattach. Subaru sells replacements ($35?)but the dealer confided that the car runs fine without them and I never had any problems without it. I have also heard of the tanks leaking at the seams. If this is your situation, there is a company that makes epoxy sealing kits that are supposed to do the trick. Check Autozone or someone else here might be able to hook you up with an online source.

My 2000 Legacy GT was reached from driver's side behind wheel, same anatomical config 6'4" 210, long arms. The bear was the front diff. and I ended up letting a shop do the front and rear diff. I know there are purists on this site who will hunt me down in the middle of the night for suggesting this but are there any real hazzards to pumping from the dip stick and refilling? I can't remember but if just the diff had magnets on the plugs or if the tran did as well. I must go and hide now....

Sounds like oil dripping on exhaust. Check valve cover gaskets, boots, engine seals etc.. Clean the engine with a degreaser and then try to locate the source of the leak and then you'll have a sense of how to proceed.

Best Wagon: Subaru Legacy/Outback Subaru has remade these trusty wagons, adding room, refinement and sharper handling to the usual Subaru virtues of affordability and standard all-wheel drive. Their price nicely undercuts AWD wagons from the European luxury kings. PERFORMANCE: Some of Subaru's championship rally-racing heritage has trickled down to these wagons, the Legacy 2.5 GT and Outback 2.5 XT models in particular. They're not just quick, they're sports-car fast, with turbocharged four-cylinder engines that whip them from 0 to 60 mph in just 5.9 seconds. DESIGN: The outgoing models were as stylish as a commune farmer in coveralls, but these remakes are more sculpted and dressy, fit for a night in town. FUEL: The Subies haul like SUVs but are easier on gas. -Lawrence Ulrich, MONEY magazine

Well here in Connecticut it is illegal to sell a car that has had any work done after the factory unless the buyer is notified. This stemmed from an incident where a carrier filled with BMWs rolled over and they didn't think they needed to mention the repairs to buyers. The State Attorney General thought otherwise and the legislature passed a law. Funny from a state that is mockingly referred to as Corrupticut, huh?

Sorry I didn't see the message until just now. Always best to send a Private Message through the board if you want to contact a member. Look at the top right corner of your screen and see under Private Message. I've even been successful getting a moderator to contact a member when they hadn't enabled e-mail or PM contacts on their profile. Basically, the mechanic was able to diagnose it here at Dan Perkins Subaru in CT. based on symptoms. He confirmed it with a test drive and then gave the knowing look to the service manager of "yup, another one". It had to do with a seal not sealing and defective hydraulics within the trany as a result. Hopefully you are still covered under the 5yr/60K drive train warranty or can make the case that it has been going on for a while but only got so bad that you thought to complain. Send me a PM if you need further clarification. The following post might also relate to your problem. I never knew to even look for a "code". G'luck Make : SUBARU Model : LEGACY Year : 2000 Manufacturer : SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 166602 Date of Bulletin: MAR 15, 2003 NHTSA Item Number: 10001352 Component: POWER TRAIN Summary: TRANSMISSION CONTROL UNIT (TCU) CODE 45 AND ALL-WHEEL DRIVE HARSH ENGAGEMENT. *TT

"Not outa the woods quite yet" ... and isn't that the kind of driving that got you where you are today? I think Sube's are being designed now to accomodate the off-road experience only on the shoulder of the road and only as long as it takes to change a flat tire (tyre if you misspell it). G'luck

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ Try this link, courtesy of moderator Legacy777. He may open his bag of tricks and set you up if he reads this or you might send him a PM and beg or promise him an extra Christmas card next year.