Mr.Atlantis

Yeah, that may speed up the process to at least the same day. My car is running normal now anyway though. Basically with my driving habits - the ECU seems to re-learn in about 2-3 days.

Makes sense... Basically, my car may have underlying issues that are being corrected to the point that I don't even notice them. If this is the case - is it something that the dealership could scan for me? The same friend with the Impreza has a pretty good scan tool with a Windows CE GUI - I'll see if it's capable. His scan toold is called: "The Determinator" believe it or not. Silly name, but works pretty well and does quite a bit.

I saw those at the store but I thought that was more for radio settings and such. Oddly though, this does not happen to my buddy who has an '08 Impreza. He can unplug his battery and his car drives exactly the same after plugging it back in.

Since I purhased my '08 Legacy Outback, I've noticed that everytime I unplug my battery (usually pull the ground, while leaving the positive attached) my car wants to stall everytime I let off the gas with the clutch in thereafter. This will persist for about 100 miles or about 5 - 6 start-up cycles and then everything seems to smooth out. Is my computer being flashed every time I unplug my battery and forcing ECU to re-learn every time? This can't be normal if so. Is a car similar to a computer whereby it has some kind of CMOS battery in order to store stuff when battery is unplugged? Any advice would be nice. It's very hard to identify whether I fixed anything if I continually have to deal with this problem every time I unplug the battery.

I have had the Airbag light on for the last 30-40k miles. I believe i may have triggered something when i installed the lil sub woofer that Subaru sells. I did have to remove the drivers seat to access everything. Though, the light sometimes goes off - but usually remains on. Very intermittent.

Thankyou!

Should the pilot bearing be: A: flush with trans side of flywheel (where i currently have it- see pictures) B: flush with motor side C: somewhere in the middle

I would like to add, that when the kit is installed on my transmission and I push the fork in order to simulate the motions - It sometimes binds on the repair sleeve due to the huge amount of play I mentioned earlier (See Image 7: TSK1 - C1). I would also like to add that I do have the correct part for my model Subaru (TSK1). When ordering I was even asked to verify using my VIN.

Hello all, I have some concerns regarding the TSK1 quill repair kit. Transmission is off my car, on a bench and awaiting some feedback on whether or not to even install the thing. It has significant play between the sleeve and throw-out bearing inner surface. Enough play to render the entire repair kit useless - as it will destroy the new repair sleeve and clutch assembly after just a few thousand miles i'm sure. I have already ordered 2 from the Subaru dealership and both are bad in my opinion. I do understand that once the grease is applied it will tighten this play up, but not 0.030" - and not to mention, the grease won't stay for that long anyway. As of now I'm convinced that the TSK1 repair sleeve kit is useless and will only do more damage to my transmission. This is all very upsetting to me because apparently these repair sleeves are supposed to be great. I've heard nothing but good reviews. Perhaps I received two bad ones in a row? What are the odds - or am I just crazy and the huge amount of play is normal? Someone please let me know if these are all normal issues when dealing with this after market part. I have already pulled the transmission out twice in one month because of throw-out bearing issues. My Subaru 2008 Outback Legacy 2.5l Non-turbo (5MT) 88,000 mi Stock I have attached some images in order to convey my issue... Image Index Image 1 (TSK1 - A1): Inner bearing surface showing proud/positive material Image 2 (TSK1 - A2): Close up of inner bearing surface Image 3 (TSK1 - B1): Showing play between inner and out bearing surfaces Image 4 (TSK1 - B2): Showing play between inner and out bearing surfaces Image 5 (TSK1 - B3): Showing play between inner and out bearing surfaces Image 6 (TSK1 - B4): Showing play between inner and out bearing surfaces Image 7 (TSK1 - C1): Showing play between sleeve and inner bearing surface Kind regards

Hello, new guy here . I'm noticing that I can't create my own forum posts, is this because I am new and there is some kind of probationary period or something? I apologize in advance for posting an irrelevant discussion, but this seems to be the only area where I can initiate a thread. I found nothing regarding my issue in any of the other threads. ^^^ Please ignore this comment, I am now able to post in forums. I believe my computer was at fault. I will re-post this in the correct forum, please accept my apologies. Either way, I have a question about the TSK1 quill repair kit. Transmission is off my car, on a bench and awaiting some feedback on whether or not to even install the thing. It has significant play between the sleeve and throw-out bearing inner surface. Enough play to render the entire repair kit useless - as it will destroy the new repair sleeve and clutch assembly after just a few thousand miles i'm sure. I have already ordered 2 from the Subaru dealership and both are bad in my opinion. I do understand that once the grease is applied it will tighten this play up, but not 0.040" - and not to mention, the grease won't stay for that long anyway. As of now I'm convinced that the TSK1 repair sleeve kit is useless and will only do more damage to my transmission. This is all very upsetting to me because apparently these repair sleeves are supposed to be great. I've heard nothing but good reviews. Perhaps I received two bad ones in a row? What are the odds - or am I just crazy and the huge amount of play is normal? Someone please let me know if these are all normal issues when dealing with this after market part. I have already pulled the transmission out twice in one month because of throw-out bearing issues. My Subaru 2008 Outback Legacy 2.5l Non-turbo (5MT) 88,000 mi Stock I have attached some images in order to convey my issue... Kind regards

Fluid condition and capacity meet spec. This issue seems to have been present for a while. It only just became more evident after fixing the Throw out bearing (as it's noise was masking the transmission noise). If I decide to just go in and replace just the seals and bearings - is it possible to pull the shaft assembly without having to disassemble everything, gear by gear? Just to clarfiy, the mainshaft 'rear' bearing... This is the input shaft bearing at the front, just behind the quill and throw-out bearing right? Or are we talking about another bearing somewhere closer to the actual rear of the transmission? Does anyone have any pictures of this transmission open cased? I will check play once trans is out of car.

Preparing to work on my transmission as well and having similar issues... What I've done: Replaced Clutch, Pressure Plate and T/O Bearing (Noticed wear on quill, but did nothing at time) due to noise when depressing clutch. Noticed strange/random catching positions ever since clutch and t/o bearing replacement. No leaks, but replaced Slave Cylinder anyway (fixed nothing - now I have two). Constant pedal adjustment (back and forth, seems random - no particular sweet spot) in order to maintain drivability. I have been doing this once a week for about a month. Car is now on jack stands and preparing to pull transmission. Ready to rebuild completely if necessary. Purchased TSK1 in hopes that bearing will guide it self more efficiently to the pressure plate. Overvew of Symptoms: Transmission makes a 'whirring' noise in all gears. Primarily when shifting. Noise is present when traveling at high speeds too. Completely random catching positions when using clutch. What I plan to do: Turn-down/replace flywheel. Install TSK1 over snout. Replace Input Shaft bearings and seals. Replace all synchronizers (unless I find this to be rediculously difficult - which it may be) Replace clutch again if worn or deforemed from previous job. Specs: 2008 Legacy Outback 2.5l Non-Turbo (5MT) 88,100 mi. About 1,000 miles put on new clutch. Any suggestions?

- This may only be your throw out bearing. I have an '08 Outback Legacy with only 88,000 miles on it and I'm already running into problems like this. I replaced the throw out bearing which eliminated the noise regarding clutch depression. Although, I still have the 'whirring' noise in my transmission, regardless of which gear i'm in. It gets louder based on engine speed. I believe that I will need to replace my main shaft bearing.

Same issue - only less noisy. Slight 'whirring' noise in all gears, at all times. Does not pop out - though it will pop slightly as I pull from 1st to neutral some times. But only if I give it the initial push. Just replaced clutch because T.O. bearing was chattering. After that was fixed, I began to notice the once undetectable 'whirring' sound of what I believe to be the input shaft bearing. I did notice that when I replaced the T.O. bearing - there was no sleeve over the shaft and it was slightly tapered and worn. Typical (88,000mi)? Am I on the right track and do I need to completely disassemble my trans to fix this?