thornleyjacob
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Everything posted by thornleyjacob
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I did a delete for the EGR. http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Delete-Block-Off-Subaru-SVX-XT-Loyale-Brat-1600-1800-TBIM-/151393859173?hash=item233fc6f665:g:edwAAOSwHnFVmUlK&vxp=mtr Runs fine without.
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Going to be purchasing a lift kit this weekend for the 84 brat, just a 2". But I've seen a few members post that they have been able to use an outback components to extend the steering shaft, anyone got a part number for that? Or does anyone know the dimensions and spline count for the steering components? There are some places that sell some custom parts and I would want it matched up right. Thanks, Jacob
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FYI - I got my wheels on Friday and they look good. I am however going to paint the front face graphite and I still need to get tires for them. And a lift. LOL - so no pictures of them just yet. Anyone who is interested in the wheels should contact sales@get-primitive.com. They have 2x extra sets on hand.
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Thanks - will be taking a closer look at it this weekend and seeing if I can cure the issue completely.
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Seems to be a lot of different issues with idle these days; mine seems to be different. EA81 New Weber 32/36 DGEV New Throttle Cable Car runs fine while cold. During hot weather, or once the engine is warm, the throttle linkage does not return to 0. Checked accelerator pedal and pedal return spring; no play here when this happens. Played with throttle cable and cable housing while not back to 0; does not reset. Just touching the throttle linkage will make it return to 0; I visually confirmed that the linkage itself moves back to 0. I've taken the linkage apart, cleaned it up (even though it was clean), and give it a bit of grease. The only thing I can think of is that maybe I am tightening the bolt back down too tight? I only take it to the point that it doesn't wobble anymore. Really am stumped here.
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From my understanding, the boot is there to keep spoob like sand out of the grease... not really a container to hold that much grease.
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I just wonder if the left one will even work; the cutout for the bolt is larger, but also placed at a different distance from the lip. He may not be able to get the bolt through.
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Just look, the dimensions seem different to me:
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The one on the left doesn't look right; not sure how else to explain. Maybe for a different vehicle?
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Anyone know the dimensions and spline count of the stock shaft?
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Will keep you in mind then; thank you for the offer. Probably won't be buying the lift until September. - Jacob
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And once I get my wheels paid for I will be placing an order Scott in Bellingham! Expect about 3-4 weeks.
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So no adjustment to the steering shaft then, correct?
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Both of your are right; his assumption that I meant shaft was correct. Your noticing me use the word knuckle when I meant only shaft. Editing above post to remove knuckle.
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If your buyer wants a slammed or stock Brat then yes; it can potentially decrease the value since they will have to work on the car to make it what they want. You are in Oceanside; I think you see more slammed/stock cars in that region than Lifted. Now if you were up in Ramona, it would be a different story. What the hell are you doing with the car anyways? Daily Driver? Hunter? Offroad? Me, I use my Brat for everything. I want it lifted so I can toss some larger tires under it, make it work better out in the muddy woods during Deer/Elk season.
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Been searching the forums and Google for days now. Vehicle: 1984 Subaru Brat (No Power Steering) I am planning on doing a 2" Lift to get 27" tires under without/minimal cutting. It seems most people are cutting and welding in an extension tube for the steering shaft (Giggity) when doing a lift. I have also found a couple of posts about people using different parts for a non-weld version... this is what I am interested in but cannot find any great information on it. Probably just buried in all the other lift posts. So question(s) is/are... - What parts are people using to extend the steering shaft when doing the non-weld version? - Do you really need to extend on a 2" lift? - Plan on getting the lift from SJRLift; not sure if that matters vs. the other ones. I would gladly accept a link to another thread where this is discussed. Should end up closely sitting like this.... http://scorpionsubaru.com/photos/Picture_0033.jpg Thanks, Jacob
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What brand axles? I just had a very similar sounding issue and the axle and it finally separated. Did you have troubles installing the axle? I bought another set of new axles and have not had issues with one (surtrack), been having issues with the other (empi)... replacing the one I am having troubles with this weekend.
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Well spoob... LOL! And yeah runnign 14" Jackmans will be nice. The gold is nice with the red.
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Dude... aren't the wheels you have on there more rare than Jackmans? Those are 14" too, no?
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NGK
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Be careful replacing that glass... the seals are also stupid rare to find in decent condition.
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Well with a boat town so close; check a boat repair shop or parts place. They use aluminum primer there a lot from my understanding.
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That sucks; but man you do live on a little island.
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https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/aluminum-primer-spray
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Jeszek, The simplest and less expensive way is to rattle can them; most people hate that idea but I have had some decent enough results so far for the parts on my car. Still learning though. From my understanding you really want to make sure to get a primer made specifically for aluminum, like Zinc Chromate, if those wheels are that vs. steel. Do you have Rustoleum brand of paints there? They started a line of paints that are similar to function of plasti-dip. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/peel-coat - Jacob
