BLACKSTONE

Turns out the timeing gear on the crank shaft broke and busted a chunk out of the shaft :-(

All vacume lines are good, I have not tryed squirting wd around the intake, but I don't really think there is a intake leak, it seems like you would hear one thats causeing this much trouble, plus if you get it above 1500 it pers like a kitten. Today I am going to swap out the pcm, and see if that changes anything. If it doesnt then I am just going to swap engines being everything else has been pretty much gone through. I've even tryed replaceing that brown relay above the fuse box that "SEA#3" had mentioned in another post was giveing legacys problems, but not luv. I bought the car to do a tranny swap and sell, so the car already had the problem when I got it. The person I got it from said that it gradually started getting worse. It is starting to become more trouble that it is worth, but I will win the battle, even if it does take useing my prized ej22 with 80k on it that was going to go into my 86 4x4 6inch lifted hatch, I guess I can always pick up another ej :-/

I will give that a try if I don't get any good feedback on here. Thanks

Air flow was Jecs to Jecs, and did not change anything when switched. I pulled the codes before I started on the project and got a cam sensor, wich I replaced. Injectors will not swap between the two engines, but I do not think that that is the problem, they did not look cloged, and the engine runs smoothe at higher rpms and Idle. It does seem very much like the timeing is being retarded until it reaches 1500 rpms, so does the pcm control this. What does pcm stand for? either way I will try to change it out and see what happens. So on the jet pump, if it is not receiveing fuel on the sending unit side would this make my car run this way? probibly not being the pump is still getting fuel. Anyway thanks for the help guys, The battle continues

I replaced the front head pipe past the front cat and inspected the back cat, both seem to be fine. I did not replace muffler, but I did run the car around for a second with just the exhaust pulled from behind the front cat and it didn't seem to respond any different :-( I am wondering if the fuel injectors could be playing some kind of role, but it just dosent seem plauseible because of how smoothe it idles and revs once you get it passed the dead spot. But I am going to replace the injectors anyway because I have a extra set and see what happens ( most likely nothing) I also can not locate the ECM. I pulled the glovebox, and carpet on the front passanger side, but it is not there? Anyway thanks for the advise, this car has really been a headace

So I have this 92 legacy 2.2 AWD, Auto It has been haveing a very strange problem that I have not been able to resolve by reading other posts on this matter. (200k non-tubo Wagon) Between 0 and 1500 rpms the car has now power and runs like theres a load on it, but will not rev above 1500 rpms unless you vigorously tap and finess the gas peddle until it reaches 1500 rpms. After its at that point the car revs awsome, runs smoothe, makes no strange noises and sounds strong. My big problem is that once I stick it in grear, there is no way to get it to 1500 rpms with power to the tranny. If you start in nutral and just hold down the throttle without tapping it it will eventually just bog down and die. It will hold a idle, but once pressing down on the gas makes it want to bog down and die. I am pretty mechanicly inclined, but this one is totally stumping me and I'm running out of things to replace. Here is a list of everything I have replaced. All parts came from 1990 AWD, auto tranny, legacy, with 89k, that I know was running like a top. 1. MAF unit 2. Crank angle sensor 3. Cam angle sensor 4. Temp control sensor 5. Knock sensor 6. O2 Sensor 7. Plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter 8. fuel pump, and sending unit 9. Tranny 10. TPS 11. Throttle body 12. PCV 13. Checked all vacume lines 14. Idle air controll valve and sensor The weird things I am wondering about: 1. Where is the EGR valve and sylinoid, if there is one? 2. Could the ECU or ECM cause this, if so, where are they located? 3. When pulling the sending unit there seemed to be no gas on that side of the tank, and upon pulling the fuel pump there was gas in that side. Is this normal or should there be gas on both sides at all times? 4. Is there anything else that could cause this kind of problem? Where exactly Any more help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks guys.

What up Ian, Its Chris from the muffler shop. The hatch looks illin, youll half to come up and play soon with nicky, ryan and me. Its time to see if she still floats. I'm going to throw my hatch together after I thrash on the wagon a little more. P.S. thanx for the gas tank.

So what you guys are saying, is that with independant suspention, when you need the travel for whatever obsticles you may encounter, lacks in travel, because of being limited by the short drive axle. Therefore makeing a leafspring and solid axle system supeior because of more travel and beafier. I have seen many pictures of the toyota convertion done on subby, and it looks like the least complex way to go about real off roading. Unffortunitly for me, theres just something that gives me that warm fuzzy fealing in my body when I look at some crazy independant suspention, when I look under a car. So I guess my biggest question would be, who has tryed to get ultimate travel out of their independant system. One person posted some pictures of a couple lited brats (one being extremly well done) and I would love to see that thing up against some solid axel subys.

I work at a exhuast shop and the number one reason people have leaks, is because of those weak clamps. So I will always pull those things off and put a nice sexy bead on there. (Who wants to pay 600$ for a duel job and see a bunch of clamps hanging down)

If the noise is becomeing more loud as you apply brake preasure, there is a great possibility that you have gone metal to metal on your rear drum. Simply dissasembly and see if your brake shoe has started to eat into your drum. This would make sense for that sound happening within one driveing trip.

Would independant suspention not crawl around in the trails better that a solid rear axle? I seems like independant setup would just have more vercatility vs. solid, but maby that just me, but aren't hummers independant?

Yes, I would love to know how that works out for you. How big of a lift are you going with?

I have realized that I will be faceing the same problem here very soon. What I was thinking is, are the threads on the EA81 interchangable with any other subaru? I imagine that subaru must have a longer tie rod end on some other subaru, but I realy have not investagated this yet. Has anyone else tried this route?

I remove O2 sensors all day (being in the exhaust bizz). I have strong faith in the 02socket system. If ever you cant get a box end on there, pop on the handy 02 socket, grab your wratchet and your good to go. Works like a champ on my 96 imprez, which problibly has the same setup as what your talking about.

I might be able to help you out with the need of a replacement suby. I picked up a smokein deal over hear in portland. After about 160$ in parts and 5hr labor of my time and money, I walked away with a 84 gl-10(I beleive, all power options) wagon, in near perfect condition with 126k on it, and also a 86 hatch 4wd D/R, minus a engine. I am not sure wheather or not I am going to keep the wagon. I love it to death, and it looks imaculate, but my 96 impreza has a little more pep (<icestorm>-the impreza lovvveed it). The only problem that the wagon has, is that I disconnected the choke because it was sticking. Other than that the car is perfect. I just did front brake job on it (includeing turning the rotors) and new struts. If your interested give me a call (503-806-7890) and you might be able to talk me out of keeping it.

whoever did that exhaust job could use a little help in that feild.

I just bought a 84gl-10 wagon in almost perfect conditon,for 160$, because when you would first start it, the choke would kick in, and work nice and smothe. When the engine would get warm, the indle would start to slowly start reving up, then it would start to shoot a huge cloud of white smoke out the back. Upon further investagation I found that the choke system on the passanger side of the car had a assembly that was not working proporly. Their is a little noched round peice on a rod comeing out of the passanger side of the carb with a small coiled spring and stopper assembly. When the car starts to warm up, the noched peice should slowly kick up and control the idle of the carb. Instead the noched peice was sticking and causeing some crazy emitions stuff to go on. so I "dissangaged" the choke system and now the car works like a champ, minus haveing to manually warm it up, This could be something you might want to check out?

I just drove my newly purchased 84-gl10 home. The problem is that when you start it cold and let the choke do it's thing, about 5min into it the car will slowly do a little rev and suddenly massive amounts of WHITE smoke will come out the exhaust. When I drove it home it ran like a little suby champ. My guess is that the choke on the hitachi is malfunctioning and sticking on, the car only has 120K grandma miles on it so I doubt its engine realated. Also, what is the ECR light on the dash trying to tell me?

Wasn't the question, "What would be the best for off road action"?

Your right, I is fwd, 5-speed. Power everything, sunroof, and indeed kinda plaid checkered seat pattern. It's in perfect condition (minus speratic, radom smokeing problem-pcv valve) so I kinda reluctant to disect it. The hatch on the other hand is a 86 with 5-speed d/r 4-wheel action. The hatch will get a lift and 31X12X15 TRUE boggers on it. The hatch right now is minus a enging, so the question I have for myself now is what route should I go on sticking one in? thanx for the info man, subbys rule.

Sorry, Posted my message under friends log in. My 1896 gl I guess would be considered a 3-door being that it only has three doors. (one being a hatch). I am not posative that the 84 wagon is a gl-10 but as far as I can tell there is ton's of extra stuff packed under the hood, and it has all the power options. It is not printed on the body of the car anywhere. (I haven't checked the door pannel of under the hood) Which brings me to my question of how do you know for sure? I looks like possible a caborated enginge, But I havent torn into it yet to really find out.

I am mostly going to be doing alot of oregon, costal range trails, so I think I will probibly stick with the carb system. Thanx for the info, any further info would be great. I am going to be sticking 31" boggers on so I definitly need the low end power of the carb.

I am looking at sticking eaither setup in my 86 hatch. This vehicle is going to be used stricktly for Off Roading. What is the better route to go for this, as far as reliability and performance goes in the trails. I also want to snorkle the system, so what setup seals better? Also what kind of extra labor is involved with the EA82T swap? Will all the mounts fit in to place all nice?

koo, thanx guys

What are some good internet sites, that have bias 4X4 tires, with pictures and priceing?