nicksubaru

In my loyale my front camber is like this \/ I did a square tube lift in the front at 15* i was wondering if anyone has maded a 2" strut tower lift with adjustable camber settings and if so how? The ea82 bodys have always had camber issues anyways if ask me. It would be nice if it were possible to fix this.

I was looking at different clutch kits, im not sure on the condition of this clutch has i have not had the car for that long. Is it wroth getting a stage 1 or 2 clutch, or better with oem rating?

Stock height. No lift.

Thanks, it seems ill be looking thur the engine removal and reinstall thread.

00 outback 5mt awd ej25 clutch fork snaped on me. Easiest way to fix? Pull the motor? Pull the transmission?

I would like to know as well

Loyale1993, did you figure out your noise?

Thats cool. I didn't know those exist. I always just checked and looked for water leaks. Or even steam.

DaveT i like your exhaust. And it will pass "CA" emissions? Yes the pre cat puts alot of heat on the pass side inner boot. I actually had that boot rip on me today, on my loyale. It sounds like you have a bad cv axle. Sometimes you can grab the cv axle and try to move it and it will kinda crunch sound. If it does then you know, but if it doesn't that dont mean its good. It maybe a driveline but that's really rare

True, oem axles are better. My ea82 came with after markets so i just warranty them at my local auto parts store. With whatever ones they have. They normally last 1 to 2 years...

Those hd cv axles do look pretty dam good. Ferp420, next time your around me, i would like to see them in person if you have time.

Normally they dont until the boot rips, but they can. I agree with Naked Buell. I believe that some auto parts store have lifetime warranty on cv axles and being that they are the same on both sides you can kinda get both for the price of one. If you are ok with lieing to the store.

Replaced alternator. Im only getting the 24 code sometimes, any other idea before i front the cash for a new iacv? If i can find one that is....

Fix exhaust leak. Fix cts. Still have air idle control problem. It will die sometimes at stop signs and idle isnt constant. And now i have 51 code. Natural safety switch stuck on.

Found an other thing. I got this car (91 loyale) on the road today. It got dark the head lights got bright then dim. I looked at the volts, on the bright, showed 18volts on the dim it showed 12ish volts. Not sure how long this has been going on but would this mess with the sensors? And im pretty sure to fix this, would be to change out the alt.

So my daily driver (2000 outback) is down . My clutch fork broke. So this car just moved up on my stuff do get done. I tried to clean each plug on the Harness the best i could. Put it back in the car. The cts code is soild, the other two are not all the time. I ordered the cts and ill put it in tomorrow. The exhaust leak ill fix tonight for one side then the other tomorrow. I needed a gasket for both sides each. Waiting for the other one.

So i took the whole harness out, and im going to check each wire and replace whats needed, the next time i work on it

So after ive been messing with wires and connecters the codes im getting now are 21 and 31... so the 24 code is clear, but the 31 code is back... so im, guessing that i have bad connection with tps and air idle control valve. And my temp sensor might actually be bad

I have cleaned the connections, even though the connection were not bad at all. Adding the ground wire cleared up the tps code.

So after the ground wire being added, i have only two codes 21 and 24. Cold start still a problem. But it dont seem as bad, but still is bad... any other ideas???

So i didnt have a ground wire from the nav side of the battery to the body, so i added a ground wire from the head of the block to the body and the nav side of the battery. It seemed to run butter, i will check tomorrow to see if this fixed the cold start problem, and the hard codes, as i let it warm up. Thx to ferp420 for coming out today and helping me. He sew that i didnt have a ground wire.

So should i start replacing these sensors, or it there a way to fix the ones i have? I dont have a whole lot of money to just spend on this car right now.

Ok so if i didnt do this wrong(who knows if its possible, i can f*** it up) i got 3 codes.... 31 thottle sensor, 21 coolant temp sensor, and 24 air control valve. Im going to clear it and double check to see it those stay hard coded

I didnt realize that the temp sensor does things for the motor. I thought it was only for the gauge. The gauge seems to be working fine. The check engine light has always been on for this car... at this point i think i need to figure out how to get it to tell me codes. It sounds like from what everyone is saying is that i have sensor problems. One or more.

So plugging the leak made it run some what better, but i still have the original problem. Other ideas?