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We can get Repco too and I've used it in OZ and Kiwi. Great luck with Repco. But when the Ozzies beat you in football you will have to realize that you have contributed to thier economy.

He solved the overheat problem for his plane. He hasn't done anything for a normal Subaru.

I don't mess with sensors if they don't mess with me. I have only replaced my ox sensor because it threw a code. Sensors tend to be in a range and as long as they stay in that range you are fine. As soon as they give me a code they are gone. With solid state electrical stuff they can last forever if you are lucky and get a good one.

I've not done one on your car, but on my Forester I just opened the hood and reached down. The ox sensor is fairly hidden but you can follow the wire. It also takes a good big wrench and a fair bit of ooomph to get out.

I wanted a US Forester and I had no choice but a 2.5. The board steered me to a 99 which I am glad of to get the later 2.5. I still had leaky head gaskets but Subaru paid me back for them. Having driven the 2.2 in a Legacy I think you would notice the power difference, but for every day driving that is not in the mountains there is little difference. I think the 2.2 may have been the best engine Subaru ever made. Don't forget that on a car as old as 99 you are going to have to reseal everything and there will be a number of other items that need doing. If an Outback sport with 2.2 works for you it may be the best deal.

I have seen two complaints on Foresters here from folks who bought the car and then realized that there is little back seat foot room. In most of the world folks don't think they need to drive a living room. My family in Kiwi has raised two kids just fine in Legacy wagons. Jed has occasionlly made use of the roof rack on trips I've noticed. Now that the kids are out of cars seats they still have one Legacy wagon on thier farm I think.

I'm not sure if they have rental Outbacks down there, I just rented one in Portland Oregon. If you can rent one for a few days that is absolutly the best way to see if a car works for you. After renting Subarus and driving my BIL's cars in Kiwi I was convinced one would work for me. After 60,000 miles or so the car is still a good choice.

don't ask us how we know you can knock that hose off.....

A lot of time folks knock off a critical vacum hose when doing a tune up.

go to home Depot and get some wide Velcro. Sticks on in minutes and you can move it later if you want. You could Velcro it right to the top of the column. They used to use Velcro in space flights to hold electronics. I have the amp in my BMW Velcroed in as well as several other things.

I had that code on my 99 Forester last year. I changed the front ox sensor and away it went.

which is a fine excuse to drink beer. I agree that matching tires and flushing would be my first step. A lot of folks have gotten another couple years out of an old tranny by flushing and it is the chaeapest thing to try. Even tires can be expensive in Kiwi so a matching set can be tough on the budget.

Oh, and we don't use Imperial measurements here. We had this probelm with the crown you see...

I have relatives in Queenstown so I know how it can be. I agree with nipper that the clutchs are probably worn and cycling. If that tranny was in good shape it should drive right up there when it kicks in to 4wd. Be aware that flushing may not fix it if there is enough wear.

not for years as I live in CA now, but it was common on large commercial trucks and busses that ran cross country. It really ruins the wires when a tech does that in an exposed area.

I think you can just buy a kit and install cruise.

I've been running Mobil 1 15-50 in my 128,000 miles Forester for over a year now. The only difference is less piston slap and longer OCIs. There might be some fuel mileage penalty but it does not show up in my use. The oil reports are very good, but they were not bad before.

Jaime, I used to see pan baffle weld breaks on Bronco pans we used in off raod racing. Do you race this car?

The stock plugs are a couple of bucks a plug. The phase 2 2.5 engine is easy to change plugs on. May as well stay with stock. Now if I had a phase 1 2.5 that I've heard a number of you folks discuss the difficulty of changing a plug on, I would seriously consider a plug that lasted a long time. My BMW has 90,000 mile plugs and they seem fine at 7 years old. Perhaps one should consider the individual car before selecting a plug.

2000 up in legacy and 1999 up in Forester. For ease use all you accessories. Some folks also fit the well loved 2.2 but you have to be careful exactly which engine you get for ease of installation.

All I have to say on plugs is that a while ago Jaime reccomended stock plugs and wires for my 99 2.5. I now have 128,000 miles on the engine, much of it in traffic. no pinging, no other odd problems. Friday it passed a smog test with numbers so low that the mechanic remarked it was exceptionally well maintained. It has had the plugs, wires, air cleaner, PCV, and a front oxegen sensor in the last year. Except for the air cleaner (Purolater) I'm using all stock parts as reccomended by many folks on this board. They sure seem to work. If I had pinging and it was not carbon I would try one heat range cooler plugs, but I don't so I won't.

Looks good blitz. now if I ever got any extra energy I'd do my windshield. It looks like its been sandblasted.

By the way I think Gnuman is working for a firm that puts Subie engines in VWs. You might pm him for info.

Speed sensor would be another thing that might make it do that. Good thought. Unless you compensate for all that stuff the ECU is going to be looking for it. Somebody must have done this before.

The most critical part is bleeding out the air. Setright wrote a pretty good piece on that a while back, it may be in the stickys.