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as suggested above if I were just going to do it in my garage. You can live without a belt cover so that should not be a problem. I have had a motorcycle engine block welded before so I would be pretty sure the right person could do that. Centering the hole and retreading after welding could be a tough job. I just noticed you are in Dallas so I guess I won't reccomend you bring it over. I am near San Francisco. With something like this any fix you do to get more miles out of it are free miles.

I would start with a pressure test for leaks and a new thermostat. An external tiny head gasket leak could slowly be removing your coolant.

I also suspect it is not torque bind and more likely a misaligned or defective half shaft. This is just a guess from so far away, but I have made funny half shaft noises by mistake myself.

soft rubber mounts and ready torque. I can crawl my BMW and it is smooth as glass, and I am 55 and have driven sticks since I was a kid. It is only a bit of an irritation in stop and go traffic, and if you can keep your mind on it you can avoid the area where it jerks. The later cars seem more prone to this because of the extra torque. This is one of the things I decided to live with to get the advantages my Forester has for my everyday use.

rear drive you can eliminate torque bind as a possibility. Check the owner's manual for what to do when installing a spare wheel.

and a bit more tidy. It does not get fluid into the cyl unless you pump it though. Once in a while you can get an air bubble in a master cyl the is hard to clear.

as I have not had a gas cap problem, but my BMW resets just as mentioned above. It takes about six hot cold cycles, which seems to take a few days. My fuel cap gasket failed on the BMW so I found out.

I performed the TSB service, hose, washers, and slave and was not satisfied with mine. the master cyl was not produceing enough pressure. One new master cyl and having my wife pump the clutch and hold and it has been fine for well over a year. If you buy a turkey baster and use it to empty the master cyl before you do the job it is possible to do this with very little mess. I also bleed it with a hose in a jar partially filled with brake fluid so as not to spill any. I had very little clean up and just washed the area with soap and water after becuse sometimes brake fluid can take paint off.

it was not unusual for the temp to go up to near boiling on the high parts. We would downshift to cool off (less load on the engine). I would expect the car heat guage to rise while climbing mountains.I would also expect the fans to come on more. If you are not boiling it should not be a problem.

I have run a prefilter in the past. You have to make sure the filter you use is able to handle your current line pressure. One then plumbs it into an easily accessible location. This is somewhat common in some areas of the third workd.

Usually you have deposits on them that are uneven. The only way a sticking caliper can do this is by causeing deposits. If you have the ABS light on and pulseing you did not get a first quality brake job. This may have been caused by the mechanic trying to save you money and being unfamiliar with your vehicle. There are a lot of very good articles on the web that may help you learn about your brakes. Check out the stoptech website for one.

in the average engine in average service. There are always folks who never add any between changes and those like me that add at least a pint or two. I use a bit more if I run high speed trips. My car does not leak any oil, but it now has 117,000 miles on it. I like a pint or two of my favorite adult beverage now and then myself so I really can't complain. Just for amusement value I have seen little if any change in the amount of oil my Subaru uses with the change to Mobil 1 15-50.

and the application. Some plugs antisieze is not reccomended with. I like to buy reccomended plugs from the dealer these days and use what the factory (not Haynes) manual says to install them with. I know this is not very adventurous, but it usually works.

when you step on the gas. I like my cars reliable, and at that point you can nurse it by for a while but you are taking your chances. While you are in there you want to replace the plastic seperator plate if you have one, with the new metal one. New rear seal and all clutch bits and flywheel if you need it. The dealer failed to replace my pilot bearing and I had to pay for another engine removal. I don't go to that dealer anymore. Make sure the pilot bearing is changed.

but in a used car I try to stay away from turbos dues to the extra operating and repair expense. I love turbos under warranty.....

I love hearing that something is easier or cheaper than predicted. This rarely happens to me!

Just to be sure try not to put yourself in a situation where you could be discomforted if you had a breakdown for a while. It is also possible for a new radiator to lower the temp the car runs at. This could cause it to stop having a head gasket leak until it reachs that temp again. I hope this is the end of the problem for you!

The dealer is supposed to put a sticker on the car to prove that the conditioner has been added. Mine is on the driver's door if I recall correctly.

and nobody has had any trouble at all. With the fours we start out discussing head gaskets....

does not have slap. We recently had some unseasonably warm weather here. My car (99 Forester) does not slap at all unless it has not been running for a few days since I put Mobil 1 15-50 in it. I started it up on a hot day after sitting nearly a week, slap would have been normal until warm up. No slap at all! I think the underhood temp must have been at least 100 on that day. It was much as if the car had already been running for a while.

valve for a long time. I'll try to remember to change that on my next oil change.

if it was the valves. Is it possible there to pull the injectors and have them tested?

mine didn't haul anything and was slipping under hard accelleration at about 89,000 miles. Mine is a 99 Forester. Be sure to get the upgraded clutch!!!! The new one is night and day better on my car. Organics are better at the supermarket.

and this car will be the best highway driver of the three. If you don't need the extra room and a mechanic says its sound, go for it.

and find at least 50 instances of blown head gaskets on this model says this is very likely. If it were mine I would just say change the head gaskets to the mechanic. Wait a minute! I already said that which is why I have new head gaskets! At the time my dealer did not admit it was a problem. Just explain that it is a really common problem and by the time he gets the symptoms he is looking for it may be too late.