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this was a Jeep, not a Subie. If I recall the one cylinder that was really trashed had bent the exhaust valve. My theory was that the cylinder was full of water on the fireing stroke and the exhaust valve tried to open in a solidly compressed mass of water.It was so torn up it was hard to see exactly what had happened because the piston was broken too, the rod was bent, and had broken the cylinder wall. Could also have been bits of piston that hit the valve, or maybe it was forced to jump timing. The point was I did not spend a lot of time worring about exactly how the engine was trashed because it was totaly ruined. I just resolved never to have my intake below water level. I should point out that this owner's personal theory was that if he was reving hard enough a little water would not bother the engine. He was wrong.

and I have to fly out at 6 AM. I'll post it when I return.

we'll worry about the money later. I will only be at my company email today and I would have to mail it tomorrow from the airport on the way out of town.

and the only place I could ship it from is the Post Office. It would need a couple pounds of box and my zip is 94401. I imagine you know what your zip is and you could look it up on the Post Office web site and see if the cost is worth that much to you. By Cd player sucks I mean it would not play everything I put in it and may have skipped if I recall. I never tried to clean it, I just put in a new Sony. The radio was better than the Sony.It also has a tape player that worked OK when removed a year ago.

anything but noise at wide open throttle. I don't know about you guys but my street cars spend very little time at WOT since I became an adult. I agree that the only way you will see much change is on a before and after dyno run. I also agree that when changing something you usually feel faster if it makes more noise. Speed equipment and scams have been around since Henry gave us the Model T. Some of it works and some of it doesn't and most of it makes somebody feel good. The basics are allways the same, the engine is an air pump and the more you get in and out the more power you make. The question is where is it worthwhile for your dollar.If someone makes thier own intake and gains 1-2 real world HP for 10 bucks it is worth it, especially if they had fun doing it. If it cost $300 for an aftermarket intake for the same HP gain it is not worthwhile to me. The real thing to watch out for is stuff like spark intensifiers and little do dads that whirl in the intake and claim more HP and gas mileage. I know some of you guys belive you can rebuild your engine with a can of goop that only thickens the oil, but honest folks, a set of rings will help a lot more.

A lot of time drums and rotors are not painted. I had to use a six pound sledge hammer on my 99 BMW wheels to get the rears off. This is in CA with no salt. After I get them off once I paint all the surfaces and that is enough for this area.

used Labatts in Canada. I'll be in Quebec next week and I'll see if it works for me.

If you want to pay shiping its yours. My Cd player sucked but the rest of it was fine. I am off to New England in a couple days so you had best decide quick.

testing using a few different types of filters and a vacum guage. We satisfied ourselves that there was little to be gained from changing to oiled foam filters. I believe that someone did some tests on Bobistheoilguy. Try taking a look over there. My cars use the best paper elements I can get. OEM Subaru on this car.

there are times when no current conventional test, leakdown, compression, or tests for gas will find a failure. Oddly enought this would be the best time to fix it as it only leaks past the gasket under load and then just a bubble or two. At this point you would be unlikly to have any cracks or much warping of the heads. A number of folks have spoken about leaking only when the car gets hot on a trip. When it gets bad enough any convetional test will find the problem.

Man that's really working against you.

my car had one cross country trip and lived in DC for while and got a little salt, plus I lie a half mile from the Bay which gives me a bit more. While I don't have a lot of rust just the fact that I have some means that east coast and Midwest folks must have a lot. My shims were rusty and had to go and the entire area needed all rust removed. I painted all my bits black which will help to resist corrosion around here.

in it and it would be a lot tougher.But then it would get 10 MPG and not be as nice a daily driver. Subarus will sometimes go where the big ones won't because they are light and peppy. I was really surprised when my brother in law told me about a Subaru doing better in the desert than a big Chevy truck his oil company had.

brake job. When I recently did my Forester I used every thing I could think of to keep it quiet. New rotors,Ozzie 4wd pads, grease, making sure there was no corrosion and the pins were free, spray anti squeal, and shims. If I had known about the Thermo-quiets I would have used them too. The result is a good quiet brake job, but it was kind of belt and braces.

and find the average leak fairly easily. One thing to check is the hose connections to the heater. I have seen a loose clamp there or a bad hose. It does not usually leak inside the car from a bad hose though. I sold a car fairly recently because the heater core blew. It had high mileage anyway and the heater core is such a pain to change these days. On older cars you just disassembled the heater box under the hood, not everything from the console forward. My Mercedes even required the removal of the steering wheel.

I grew up with Jeeps and just sold my last one a year ago. when you ford a stream it is a fine idea to disconnect the fan as the water will even bend a steel one into the radiator. As mentioned stay way away from the ignition and intake with water. Jeep sixes had the ignition on the side of the engine and you could flood that before hitting the intake. I listened to others and never got a bent rod, holed radiator or stuck in a stream. Don't ask me about the quicksand. Know what the bottom is and how deep it is and the stick is a good idea. I used to walk it with wading boots.

its bent rod city and a long walk home.

cracks. if they are subie specialists they will know what to do. If they aren't subie folks don't go there.

You've been outvoted. I have been married 20 years so I know. I bought two green cars and wanted to do my garage trim in dark green but got outvoted the same way.

work you put into it. Howabout a red pinstripe? They sell pinstipe kits at most auto stores and it is pretty easy to do the plastic ones. You just pin down one end and pull it straight before you lay down the other end and trim with a single edge razor blade.

definition of a sports car. To me it means top down, good looks, sporty handling and good power. I look at the WRX as a neat sports coupe. I have never looked at the other Subaru versions much at all especially the rarer birds with reputations for mechanical quirks. I sure would like to see head gasket reliability a lot higher before I got a 2.5 with a turbo.

had to do practically nothing. She sold it at about 88,000 miles when it was due for everthing. You are right Setright, as the second owner at around 90,000 miles it was due for darn near everything. If it had been a Toyota is supect it would have still needed some items, like the brakes and struts, but head gaskets, timing chain, seals, oil pump sealing, defective clutch, and that danged little palstic slinger are Subaru only.

failures to one cracked block. When you get the cracks is when you continue to overheat an engine. If you have not done that you should be fine. If it were mine it would get new gaskets and dirven till it dropped.

not brakeing? If it is only under brakeing that should be a clue. Since mine is a 5 speed I have never experienced torque bind.

really depends on the design of the engine and the amount of access you have in the vehicle. I have changed a few in Chevys and Fords that were pretty easy. Usually the reason you had to go into the engine was a flat lobe on the cam, and as long as you were in there you might as well change the timing system. This is with the exception of a few Ford vans in the seventies that had plastic cam chain gears. This was not one of Ford's better ideas. My last Mercedes would have been a pain to change the timing chain and the only time I did it was on overhaul. It also wore out cam lobes at about 150,000 miles.I changed the cam and left the chain. A DOHC engine like my BMW M roadie would also be a bear to change. It has a couple of chains and two tensioners. Although some folks have replaced the tensioners and the cam timing devices I have yet to hear of anyone needing to replce the chains unless they were racing. a lot of these cars now have 150,000 on them.