Spazz698

According to the legacy manual you have to do the following: 1) point wheels forward 2) disconnect neg. battery terminal 3) wait at least one minute so the backup power supply can be depleted. that's pretty much it, after that it goes on about what to do if you remove a live airbag...from my training I know you can also hunt down the yellow connectors (they say airbag or SRS all over them) and unplug it. Can do the same if you can find the sensors (you dont need to unplug everything, the manual says you dont have to unplug anything but I was trained to disarm them and unplug the connector going into the steering column for safety) BTW, if you unplug stuff, do it after you do the first 3 steps.

On my way to napa (yeah I drove my subie) the ticking quieted down, I picked up some seafoam and since it quieted down I managed to pinpoint the damn ticking- within my driver's side valve cover (yay lol it was the lifters) put the seafoam in there, probably less than it said to cuz I have a paranoia thing with stuff I've never used, drove it 50 mi on the freeway and after about 5-10 min on the start of that drive (not quite on the freeway yet) the sound totally disappeared, right along with any strange noise my car may have been making except the intake leak of course lol. Totally made my day. That stuff's great!

Mine and a same gen (I think its supposed to be white, pretty sure it hasnt had a bath in a yr) sedan...too bad they trashed it

Well I just checked my lifters, they look good, well lubed and they're not sticking, nothing seems to blocking oil movement but I did hear a nice leak coming from my intake manifold. Now that I've actually looked at it it sounds a lot like my car's prematurely detonating in one cyl. According to a couple people I've talked to that leak can cause it to do just that. I just dont know why I didnt hear it w/ a stethoscope but when I checked it again a little more throughly I could hear it just fine. Maybe cuz I wasnt listening for that inparticular. So I have to wait til tomorrow since the intake manifold gasket has to be ordered to see if it was really that or not. I had a feeling it was leaking a long long time ago when I couldnt figure out why no air was going thru my iac valve. If its not that that's fine too, I think it's time this car gets a series of new gaskets, Im justhoping it's not serious, I dont really want to give up on it (as if I have to tear down the motor I will, I cant afford to do that right now and I just dont have time either)

Well I went to work horribly early this morning (6:30 on a sunday!! not only that on my DAY OFF!!! Company meetings suck) Got there just fine but on my way home 2 hours later my car started making this horribly loud tick. I know its within the engine it goes faster (and possibly louder, it seems like it) the higher the rpms. Is this that tick of death thing I've read about? 260k mi on this car, and not once did it make this painful sound til this morning. well I can verify the first 230k...but you know. Now I am the type to turn up the radio when I know something's making noise but it's not gonna affect driving the car in any way (like the clicking of my cv axle, I got 20k left on it lol) but this ticking is LOUD. I heard it over my stereo, which is usually fairly loud at that. I need this fixed, and I want to avoid pulling the valve cover off as much as possible thanks to the limited space in there. It's either coming from the front or the drivers side, unfortunately a stethoscope didnt help me on this since it didnt absorb any sounds so I cant tell for sure. From what I've read (and know about my car) its either the timing or the valve lifters. Should I try seafoam? Oh and if this helps, apparently my car was low on oil, I do have a leak and I swear I checked it less than a week ago and it was close to full, checked it today and barely on the dipstick (ie way way low) I've done this before but it never made sounds of it. I'm driving more thanks to my new job and I havent taken it to account of my oil loss yet, I wasnt expecting to add oil for a few more days!

It is running rich- Im getting about 20mpg steady instead of 26 And for some reason my car doesnt actually sound like there's a leak, this is why it went unnoticed til I went to grab something from the glove box with the car on. It's mildly louder than it should be not anything really noticeable to anyone not looking for it. It's super quiet like it should be when it's idling, but once you hit the 3500+ rpms it gets loud, and not a horrible rattling/I broke it loud either. But I *should* have tomorrow off so I'm gonna hope I can look at it then.

Just from what I've read you might have an ecu prob, or bad injectors causing it to pour more gas than needed. Hard to say what it is exactly w/o looking at it. I dont know what method the people who looked at your car used when they looked at the sensors, sometimes things dont come up without using an oscilliscope/multimeter when it doesnt have the car toss a trouble code (and a lot of places do rely on the car to have one or "it's not a huge problem")

Dont worry Im a mechanic as well, and when I first started working on my subie it stumped the hell out of on a reg. basis. But once you figure the thing out, they're great!

well I noticed my car now has an exhaust leak coming from the pass side. My prob is I dont tend to stay in one spot long enough (except when Im sleeping) for the car to cool down enough so I can pinpoint this leak but as far as I can tell it's somewhere inbetween the cat and the exhaust manifold (could actually be the manifold itself) I'm planning to check it out on my next day off, and unfortunately I dont know when that is yet. But of out sheer curiousity, would having more back pressure on one side than the other affect the motor in any way? I know (n/a) hondas w/no back pressure = loss of power and burned valves if you drive like my friends (haha) it doesnt sound like it's doing bad but then again, neither did my friend's honda who just did a swap cuz he didnt want to tear it down.

Some local lock smiths here will make you a key for a car as long as the title/registration is in your name, found this one out when my sister managed to snap her key in the ignition, got it out just to lose it on the way to the lock smith.

Doesnt subaru sell shims to put behind the brake pads on non-subie pads to relieve the squealing? My car does the same thing, only my back speakers have started to go so I can hear it again

yours should be located behind the dash in the middle (on the pass side) you have to pull the glove box out and feel up for it unless you want to pull a LOT more off. It's roughly behind the vent above the radio-about 1.5x1" and 2" or so long, just be careful it can be tricky to get off

"Your account was placed on hold due to an unusually high volume of activity. Please contact our Consumer Affairs department to validate your account. To do so, please visit the CARFAX Help Center, and send a message by clicking on the "Ask CARFAX A Question" tab." Well it did! lol

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/81820816.html free carfax

well first off, you are aware subarus dont actually get the best of gas mileage right? Yes its a 4cyl, but you need to think its a V6 mileage wise. My guess is 24-26mpg would be your avg. My 93 gets anywhere from 21-26mpg depending on how much of it is freeway driving. One good thing to check is your PCV valve, on most other motors this wouldnt make a huge diff mileage wise, but when mine crapped out, my mileage got stuck in the teens.

I'm planning to do a hg fix on my car (see sig) which means a lot of the gaskets are getting replaced and most of my block will be avail for upgrade-and I suddenly think turbo is a good idea. Let's say I'm planning to push 6-8psi, do I need to upgrade anything? Just remember, I'm not far from 260k, still runs great but eventually if I keep the car long enough to be able to save some money I'll be doing a major swap on my car, which is why I'm not aiming too high for the time being. I think if I want to do what I want with my car I should start with a fresh to barely broken in block, not one that's been babied its entire life and given to me (not saying I dont take care of it but I do "test" it) lol Hmm maybe I should go buy a honda to blow up before experimenting with my beloved subaru...

Yay someone with a car like mine! lol that fuel light freaks me out sometimes esp since it likes coming on when Im on the freeway...then dimming, the gets brighter, then dims and finally turns off lol. But the last time it turned on I was at a stop for maybe a min and it popped on, it acted like it wasnt sure if it wanted to be on or not, turned off the second I hit the gas tho, luckily I was 3 blocks from home. So I shouldnt worry too much til it actually stays on huh? I dont tend to roam too far when my gauge sits way below E...

My gas gauge = WAY off. Other than when it sits at full it's almost useless. Well, not useless since I've been monitoring it and seeing just exactly how off it is, so when Im at 1/4 tank I have a little less than half, when it's on E I have 1/4 left. My only issue is with the gas light, it pops on for no more than 2 min and then turns itself off and I still cant figure out why. Last time I checked those were supposed to stay on til you put more gas in it...3 weeks into this project (and Im not tearing apart the instru. cluster) and I still cant figure out why it's doing this and I'm worried about running out of gas to see if it'll pop on and stay on again...anyone know wtf is going on? Maybe I shouldnt complain, at least I'm getting 25-26mpg now, instead of 20-22 And btw, I've gotten my 93 legacy up to 120 and it still ran smooth

I'm amazed you got one with miles so low (that's something like 80k mi give or take) Take care of it they last forever- my 93 has 260k mi on it and other than the minor hg leak that just started it runs like its brand new!

Awww too bad its not in washington, Id jump on it right now

I'm pretty sure part of it was emissions, part of it was sales (of course) and then part of it is japan is full of meanies, they keep all the good cars/engines for themselves.

lol I have a 93 (w/2.2L) auto and I have absolutely no problem losing tread on dry pavement

sounds like you have an excessive parasidic load on your battery. That or it's possible your alt is doing what my old one did, just charge some of them time but not to where it was supposed to be, the alt wasnt shot YET but it was gonna go within a week or two if I didnt just replace it right then and there. You can cheack for this by starting the car with no load (no ac/heat, radio, lights) then one by one turn them on then up to high, my system started shutting things down after the load got too high

I'm very sure, I replaced the valve cover gaskets less than 4 mo ago and other than the trail that starts from the hgs theres no oil on them at all. I just dont wanna do what I did with those, it went from a small leak to where after 30 min of driving drained half my oil (it of course happened in the middle of the night) Not only that I sat under my car for a good 2 hrs (it was on a lift) cleaning the underside of the car- Thats when I noticed I had a leak, wasnt expecting to see fresh oil down there. I have a feeling I may haveto give in and buy the gasket set, as high as my miles are (close to 268k if I havent hit it yet) and how it looks like nothings been replaced on this car (I just pulled the original alt. out at the end of march, the only one I've ever seen last more than 6yrs) it's seems like due time for everything to start crapping out lol

I use NAPA brand, 1.09 (with tax!) a quart. Hell I cant bring myself to put expensive oil in my car when I know perfectly well it'll leak out before I get the chance to do an oil change on it. But the oil filter needs replacement (its about 10k overdue, not my fault I'm a busy person and my car is busier than I am, when I do get the time it's being borrowed by someone willing to fill the tank)