kayakertom

Will look at this, thanks.

No spoiler on my 3-door.

OK, so it has been raining a lot in Oregon and I'd like to keep the water on the outside of the car... Searched , but didn't find find anything useful. Anyone with a 3-door or rx know how to keep the water out? The rubber around the hatch area looks good.

It seems like the cause of the driver's side timing belt failure was a separated inner belt guide on the oil pump. It wasn't until I had everything back together and the car running without the belt covers that I discovered this. The rattle noise drew my attention and seeing how the thin metal guide was bouncing around, it looked like it could catch and slice into the belt. Have a new oil pump, but need to pick up a mickey mouse gasket for it.

This is getting ridiculous, always the driver's side. Will be keeping the covers off now. Good thing my AAA covered the tow.

Took my 88 gl wagon through deq this morning, it had sat 2 years since I had fixed the broken clutch fork (reason previous owner sold it) and resealed the motor. Car passed which was a relief, since today was the last day of my trip permit. They just did an idle exhaust test. Also got to Sherwood U-Pull-It and found some some good parts. There are at least 3 gl's there, 2 wagons and a 3-door.

If anyone else is interested, this web forum is a great source of information and deals for electric bikes and motorcycles: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/index.php There is an explosion of new motors, batteries, controllers and related components. I'm building my first e-bike and its been a lot of fun. Have done other electric vehicles over the past 20 years, but the performance was always lacking, now it is available at a reasonable cost.

Is your hub nut torqued to 150 ft lbs?

Had to replace my '88 gl front driver's side wheel bearings and it was a battle every step. Got everything back together except the roll pin. After several attempts, the old roll pin was too damaged, so I put in a large cotter pin as a temporary fix. Any major concerns running with this for a week? Probably no highway or off-road driving, just neighborhood / work commuting.

Somewhere in the Older generation archives is the advice to drill a small diameter hole through the top of the bell housing for manual trans vehicles in order to drop a phillips screwdriver into the flywheel rim holes. I've done this with all my ea82 vehicles and it works 100% of the time to allow loosening of the crank pulley.

There are two timing belts; pay attention to what GD says. What repair manual are you using? Pull all the plugs, then put your left index fiinger over plug #1 and rotate the crank shaft; the rotor should be pointing in the general direction of #1 when you feel pressure. If you are 180 degrees off, you need to reset your distributor. ................

Those oil pressures look good. Try Seafoam in your oil - it works great for allowing the lifters to be properly pressurized.

Soak those 17mm bolt threads with PB blaster first. Also, if I remember right, there are two smaller bolts - one on both bottom sides of the bumper going into the body sheet metal.

Take out your spark plugs and go through a few rotations of your crankshaft and check your cam positions with the center line matched up with the indicator. If that is correct, put a finger over the #1 plug hole while rotating the crankshaft and verify that you are getting compression when the distributor rotor points to #1 distribitor position at 20 d btdc. (Rotate engine in cw direction, when facing it.)

Another possibility is the air mass sensor located by your air filter.

Has anyone taken those donut spare tires off of the rims and mounted narrow 15" tires on the donut wheels? The spares that I have are 15"x4" wheels. If I remember right, the old vw's and volvo's used to have 165x15" tires.

It turned out that one of the bolts in the gearshift brackets was in backwards and the threaded end stuck out just enough to block the hi/lo shaft from moving very much. I did the auto to d/r transmission swap 2 years ago and haven't had the interference problem until this week. Will keep it in fwd now until I get the time to reverse the bolt.

I haven't had the need to use it lately; on Sunday, I used it to drive up my car ramps to change the Oxygen sensor. Backed off and then when I went to gp to work on Tuesday, I tried going into fwd and while trying to disengage got it stuck in 4wd lo - will also go into the neutral point between lo and hi.

My '87 3 door with a d/r is stuck in 4wd lo. I have tried going in reverse and then pushing the lever; also tried lifting and rotating wheels but no luck so far. Did a search and don't see any other tips.

Gary, you are ready to pounce quicker than I can read through and correct myself...

With the clutch job, I would replace the throw-out bearing clips and re-grease the pivot ball / fork interface and replace that clip.

Some scumbag put a long, wavy, deep key scratch on the drivers side of my white gl-3 door yesterday at the Barbur Transit Station parking lot; also left a door paint scrape on the passenger side. No security camera coverage in the lot, but I will be looking for a grey car with white paint scrapes on a drivers door at a certain height... What's the best way to handle the scratch?

88 F350 extended cab dually with a 460 74 Sebring Vangard Citicar (electric - 48V) 91 SunCoaster - 3 wheeled solar electric (built from scratch) 87 dl wagon 87 gl 3-door 88 gl wagon

Be careful in making sure you get the correct water pump - there are 2 choices, one for vehicles with ac and one for non ac cars. The difference is reflected in the stand off height of the drive pulley. The difference is a few mm. I have used the shorter pumps on cars that needed the taller pump by using small washers to gain the offset. So a search for more info. ... water pump on a 1991 Loyale?

Looks good - has it just had one previous owner? Original head gaskets?