Rallyru

It’s still macpherson strut

Well there doesn’t seem to be enough interest to part it out and I still haven’t gotten anybody who’s seriously interested so looks like I’m keeping it. Fine by me haha

The 5 speed dual range holds up just fine with a transfercase behind it. I almost never need to use the transmission low range anyways but it’s nice to have. An ej22 will do just fine. I have an ej25d and have never felt like I need more power. An EZ would probably break the samurai transfercase. They crack easily with high torque and/or high power. The Ford 8.8 is another rear diff option. Factory they are 59.5” but can be narrowed down to 56.5”ish with factory parts. Don’t really know what to do about the front.

Somebody buy this thing! $5000. There’s a hatch nearby that I want to go pickup. I’ve even been toying with the idea of parting it out if there is enough interest. -Samurai transfercase with 4.16 gears and parking brake. Less then 500miles since rebuild $750 -Ea82 5 speed dual range $250 -Subaru to samurai drivelines (3) $600 -Welded r160 diff $100 -Phantom grip LSD r160 $200 -8 inch lift $600 -Hybrid ea81 rear axles $100 -Ej25d $150 -Engine adapter and flywheel $200 -17 gal RCI fuel cell $100 -33x9.5x15 sx2 mounted with wheel adapters $1100 -9000lb winch on hitch receiver $200 -Gl10 rear disk brakes complete $300 -16inch Billistein coilovers, need charged $500 -14inch King 2.0 coilovers $800 -Toyota MR2 aluminum 3 row radiator with rewelded outlets $150

The best transfercase to use is the samurai as it has high range reduction and aftermarket support like gearing, shifters, driveline disconnects, and parking brakes. It also tucks up the highest. But the Nissan cases are easier to install as the outputs line up and the flanges are the same as Subarus.

I researched transfercase swaps for about 6 months before I did mine. It’s been done for over a year and I think I’m still the most recent person to do it in an old Subaru (There’s a Foz in Australia on solid axles that’s fairly recent). I’ve also taken the most pics (to my knowledge).

I used an old piece of mustache bar and welded it to the stock crossmember to support the front. For the rear I built a crossmember that bolts to the radious rod blocks and welded the stock mount to that. You can see the crossmember I built in the pic below before I welded the diff mount to it.

I built my own crossmember to hold the engine. It won’t fit with a 4 inch lift. 6 is minimum but 8 is better. I have a samurai transfercase but Nissan 720 is the most common to swap in.

The more I think about it, the more I want to build a rock crawler bug. I already have a ‘67... but that’s still a long ways away haha

In theory it’s really simple. Transmission in permanent 4wd to transfercase to diffs. Requires a minimum 6 inch lift and at that height you should already have the lift blocks connected so you build the mounts off of that. I put a transfercase in my ea81.

The pajero snorkel fits the MY with a little heat. I have one on mine.

Even though I’m trying to sell it, I still love this car. It might not look too bad as a hatch. Assuming I can get the windows right. Haha

The more I think about it, the more I want to build another lifted Subaru. I thought about using my Subaru to build it but I’d hate to strip out everything I’ve worked so hard to build just to start again. It’s actually easier to just start with a fresh car. So the build plans are: -GL hatchback -40-44 inch tires -Currie Fabricated Ford 9inch front and rear -LS with 400-600hp -Built 4L80e -Atlas 4 speed transfercase I know it sounds crazy and most wont like it because “It’s not Subaru” but that’s kinda the point. I just want to build it to be bulletproof. It’s only money, right? If nobody buys my car and I get tired of looking for a hatch I’ll use my wagon. I’ve even been playing with the idea of shortening my wagon into a hatch but it would take a lot of metal work to make it look decent. Either way it will be a lot of work. With that being said, anybody in the PNW have a Hatch for sale? The closer to St. Helens, OR the better haha.

So far I’ve only posted it on Facebook. I’m not trying very hard to sell it haha. Especially with the upcoming snowstorm the pnw is supposed to get next week https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216671349178027/ Hopefully that link works haha

Decided to list my Subaru for sale. It’s been fun but I need the money for my rx7 and upcoming bills. I’ll build another though.

I run the Cardone axles with 0 issues. They turn my 33’s just fine.

At the end of last year I went to the St Helens mud run and had a blast as usual but got myself into a little trouble haha flipped the Subaru playing around. Had it flopped back over in 10 min and spent the rest of the day wheeling it was a good day. Going back again on the 26th

Wow, it’s been a while. I made it to WCSS. Had a great time. Here are some random photos.

If you’re talking about the factory shock mount that’s a bad idea. It’s not designed to be load bearing, Subaru themselves say not to use air shocks for that very reason. The mounting brackets may sit the same but the lower links hang down really far compared to ea81 suspension.

The 1st gen EJ’s that you praise use the same hollow stub shafts, axle cups and diffs as ea82’s. No matter what setup you use it’s going to require you to cut up the unibody to mount coilovers in an ea81. What you gain in diff snout clearance you loose again by adding lower control arms that now hang down much lower at full suspension drop. Better brakes and wheel bearings are nice though.

Realistically the ea81 rear suspension is fine. Before I went to coilovers I had 14 inches of travel with only modified axles and an 8 inch lift. Use ea82 axle cups for more travel. I have 33’s and rarely break anything unless I’m being stupid

What thickness did you use for the strut body’s? I’m about to build a similar set