lrgvanman

June 17, 2025. After a while of being without my 1984 GL wagon because the clutch cable broke, I finally pieced her back together with new parts. It now operated the clutch cable wonderfully. I drove her to a friend's, whom I get my used parts from, to show him she was back on the road. He was happy as well. After I had left his place and headed home, I encountered a three-way involving a highway curve that I had to navigate. Traffic oscillating from one way, then traffic from the other way, and so on. I got excited and jumped at the chance to go. Shame on me. I burned off in first with a naughty burnout, followed by a speed shift slam into second, producing a chirp, followed with the same third, sans a chirp, rather, when a horrible sound I'd never heard before, sounding like a mega heavy gear grind! A memory flash suggested a reading I'd done where the author had engaged 4WD as a temporary bailout "fix". I did so and all appeared good for the time being. I babied the car home where she sat until today, the 18th of July. I got brave, and without much choice, I drove her back to my friend and discovered that I had apparently eaten a hub, I have a couple of spare hubs, so this will keep me occupied. A hard lesson as we are both are getting up in years. Her; Sept 1983 = almost 43 and me; 69 1/2. I've gotta knock off the hot rodding and give her more appreciation, have fun all and the best to ya!

Clutch is now much easier to disengage than the hydraulic one in my Chevy S10! After fixing this array, my right front axle went out, had to drive homr in 4wd. Yet another project. Thank you all for you kind suggestions and wishing you the best.

Cable broke at the tuning fork sort of thing at the end that hooks to the clutch pedal. Also, the clevis pin wore out and acquired two grooves, adding to the slop. Subaru no longer has this clevis pin part so I got one at Ace Hardware about half an inch longer than the other one and I'm pretty sure it will work. I tried to send a picture but this site will not take a picture of that size. I will try again later. UPDATE: There it is below. I went to ACE and got a 5/16d x 1/4l clevis pin and the internal washers they had were incompatible. Either mine works after flattening with a hammer or I go the route of 10 flat washers and a hitch pin. We'll see. I haven't lost my touch with improvising.

Here it is 2025. Link http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html no longer works. I am working on replacing the clutch cable in my 1984 GL wagon. Having a battle with the pedal e-clip. The screwdriver just jumps out and I was going to try to nudge it with a gasket scraper, but I stopped for now. Eyesight, lenses and lighting, now the heat, it'll take a while...

Anyone 3D printing these yet for a reasonable price as well? I need a left and a right for an '84 in tan. Fronts are sun cooked and rears have survived so far.

Hi, all. I am looking for a replacement corner light bulb socket with pigtail for my 1984 GL wagon. Anyone have a lead? Thanks in advance. - Larry

I never did get them loose and could not find the lever either. The seat covers already had the opening to slip the headrests through. Problem partially solved.

I'm trying to find at least two exterior door handles for a 1984 Subaru GL wagon. Thanks in advance.

Do you still have any door handles for an '84 GL wagon? Tweakers have broken two. Looking for RR.

Actually the speedo is okay and spot on with my Tom-Tom and the GPS black box is wrong. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I took the speed head out of the "new to me" cluster and put it into the original cluster and all is good now.

I dug into it. I took the original and carefully pulled the "glass" then pulled the black "separator". Next, I removed the two screws that secure the head and did the same with the donor, eventually replacing the drier head into the original assembly in reverse order. All works now but reads 5 mph slower against a GPS Speedo. Tomorrow's another day...

Well, to start off, I attempted screwing in the cable into the trans and had to carefully modify the end of the cable (shorten) by 1/8 inch because the seal was apparently thicker that the original and the cable would not mate. I finally got it into the trans and out of kicks, reassembled and the test drive showed my fear that the speedo is useless and still faulty. So, I put the replacement cluster in and its speedo works but I cannot get half the lights to work and the fuel and the voltmeter are useless. So, does anyone know, how does this cluster safely disassemble? I figure while I am wasting time with futility, I might get lucky at random by cleaning out the original speedo. I mean, what the hell, why not since these things are so scarce that I cannot find yet another replacement? Thanks in advance for any info.

22mm 1/2" drive socket on bolt with end of 3-foot breaker bar on driver's side ground (if right hand drive) then bump starter. Make sure to pull the coil wire FIRST! I foolishly misstated that. It should apply to LEFT hand and not RIGHT hand drive. Otherwise correct. Sorry.

I'm not positive but I believe it is 5/8 inch.

22mm 1/2" drive socket on bolt with end of 3-foot breaker bar on driver's side ground (if left hand drive) then bump starter. Make sure to pull the coil wire FIRST!