shawnsbrat

I'll be there with the 84 brat again Prolly for Saturday only. Also, I was wondering if anyone that is going could help me out with a few parts.... I need an antenae mast and 2 door lock cylinders with a matching key. I have a ton of misc gen2 brat parts laying around if anyone needs anything let me know and I will bring them. I have a set of 4 ,6 lug wagon wheels I would like to unload as well. $20.00 takes em!

gonna try and make this one. brats been in storage for like 1.5 years but i think its time to blow the cob webs out..........

I bought a fuel tank on ebay off this guy last year and look at the project he had going on. http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2639&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= yes he did sacrifice a rust free brat from texas to do this but the talent this guy has washes away the sins. scroll thru the many pages for a lot of pics.

Right now I have 55 idle and 160 main jets. dont remember what air corrector is in there. kind of fought with a hesitation coming off the off idle circuit and entering the main circuit. got that just about perfect before I put it into hibranation in december. Im sure I will tweak it a few more times before Im satisfied. atleast its easy to work on and make jet changes.only takes a couple minutes. I dont have any experiece with the 32/36 dgev. ram performance reccomended using the 38. Give ron a call at ram hes wil be glad to answer any questions,very nice guy.

I have one buried under the snow somewhere around here,if your patient I can see if I can find it when the snow melts. awesome job on that home made bar man!

no,it was original a hard top,I made it a tee-top roof like most are anyway. Trust me you would never guess it was a hard top if you saw it in person.came out real nice. motor runs strong ben,weber is a bit of a pain to make happy with temp changes in our region. only put 500 miles on it and then took it off the road for the winter.will run the hell out of it this year and get it dialed in 100%

little eye candy for you guys This is about all the snow it will see after all the hard work. southern cali steel .you can literally eat off the undercarrage,cant seem to find it in me to run it down the salty roads or off road it like I originally planned on.

38mm DGAS weber . Mid range is totally flat,I gotta re-jet .went thru my settings yesterday. mixture screws are way out and according to weber that indicates to lean of a main jet. set the timing to 18 btdc and reaches 34 btdc just as ram specifies so I think it must be all in the carburation. Idles nice, off idle pulls hard(breaks the tires loose like crazy,top end may be holding back /too lean but is decent. running 215/70/14 and they were rubbing on turns until I cranked up the front struts. The rear side of the fenders I cut back before paint and now I regret cutting the front edge as well. These tires will work until I can figure out a better combo.

Well,its been a long drawn out project but its 98% complete and drivabable. Gotta find a rear bumper and a few misc items but here it is. This turned into a complete ground up resto. I am pleased with all the body fit after I changed the top over from a hard top to a fun top. everything lined up 100% Tomorrow it will go to my shop for alignment,Im sure I will battle with the camber for a while to get it right.

I got my ea81 apart with no speacial tools,2 wrist pins came out like butter,the other 2 took a little time working back and forth with heavy snap ring pliers and some penetrating oil to melt the carbon. Its actually a fun job if your use to inlines and V engines. The flat 4 is such a neat design. Sounds like you should just do the heads on yours,bottom ends on these subis seem to be almost bullet proof. Good luck!

Yes por is great stuff,simple to use.All of the suspension is por15 on my project brat. The engine and trans I did with por15 engine enamel. http://www.por15.com/

LIFT IT! fix the rust before it consumes the whole truck. The northeast is hell on these poor trucks, Ive watched my daily driver brat go from just a few rust spots to major holes in just 2 years.

Ya! just remember you cant compress a liquid, its possible to bend a rod if its hydro-locked,or just put an enormouuse strain on that little rod bearing and take it out all together. Good luck!

either distributer will work,they both have the same wiring and will hook up to your coil the same. The Nippo is a more reliable distrib.

Look inside the distributor at the module.If it sits vertical then its a nipi if it lays flat its a hitachi.The cap wont even fit on right if its wrong.

I suggest http://ramengines.com/ to do the machine work they speacialize in suburus.Email ron and he will give you a quick answer on anything you throw at him.

Theres always decal sets on e-bay,not sure how good they are.

The engine its going on is already modified and hasnt been driven yet so I really cant compare for ya.heres a pic of the engine...

System is in.Not really that loud,I think its just right.

Heres my sleeper next to my brat project. 91 gmc syclone awd 4.3 turbo with lots of goodies. 0-60mph in 3 seconds on a good boost launch. Nothing better than blowing the doors off a yuppie in a vette or porche.

Pic of where it was cut inside of the B-pillar

Yea motors in,runs good,needs the carb and timing adjusted yet.With no dash and column I just have to jump the ignition coil,jump the starter and then jump the choke after it starts.I think once I get the a-pillars all pretty Im going to put the dash and column in.

It was scary but I got it done. Its welded on,got a few hours of grinding before it looks presentable to the paint shop,looking like this thing may hit the streets this spring

30 inch equal length head pipes.passes thru stock location under sway bar .goes down along right side of prop shaft,crosses over in front of tank and then exits at the stock location.I used a resonator off a 2005 malibu for a muffler that I got out of the warrenty scrap heap at work.Sounds pretty cool.