shawnsbrat

I too am looking for that gasket for my resto. Maybe this is a stupid question but do they make a gasket that eliminates the small channel for the crome insert strips?These are so hard to find in good shape. How bout the rear slider gasket is that available?

Hey Guys. I have a 84 brat with a 4/3 lift and 6 lug conversion. Im looking for the best possible wheel tire combo to install with out having to cut the fenderwells and that wont give me rub issues when Im wheeling. Im looking at a set of 14 by 6 with 3.5 back spacing then maybe 205/70/15's ??? (they should be 25" tall) Thanks for any help.will be selling the 15/8 that I originally bought once I figure this out.

Im beating myself up over wheels and tires.I purchaced a set of 15 by 8's before my 4/3 lift and 6 lug conversion was even done. I dont know what I was thinking with the 8 inch wide wheels,It kind of limits me to what tires I can use.Plus I dont have the heart to cut the fenders cause its such a perfect rust free body.Im looking at a set of 14 by 6's with 3.5 offset.What do you guys think? and would anyone be interested in my 15 by 8's ? I can let them go with a set of 235/75/15 too (heres a pic with the 15's w/235)

Stop poking and hoping and do a simple leak down test to atleast see where its going.Pop your dist cap and point the rotor to the cylinder you want to check.Pull the plug,peek in and make sure that piston is perfectly at tdc. Make sure you prevent the crank from turning when you apply air pressure to the cylinder.Listen for air escaping from the throttle,listen at the tail pipe and remove the oil cap and listen for air getting past the piston. Good luck!

Ya,maf does get confused,Some cars are more sensitive than others.For example the chevy cobalt will set a check engine light (lean dtc) if the oil cap is off or dip stick isnt seated. And Ive seen some german cars hunt and stall when the cap is removed.Some cars you dont even see a change,Ok this topic is definately beat into the ground now!LOL

Crankcase is under a vacuum from the pcv system,You create a vacuum leak when you remove the cap.Probably normal? Can a subi tech verify this? Im just a gm tech,lol

140 hp Very expensive to do one of these but I love the look of the old ea81,starting to look antique-ish. Around $5000 complete and thats with me doing all the assembly.You can by an identical long block from Ram for I think $6995 and you have to pay shipping and still need a carb.

Engine is Done and running... Block Decked ,dowel pins added,Bored .030" over,high comp pistons.Heads ram dual ported,shaved,stiffer springs,Higher lift camshaft,Custom intake and weber Dgas carb. Brat lifted 4/3 inch... Done Converted from Automatic to stick...Done Converted from manual Steering to power... Done Hubs converted to 6 lug... Done Converted from hard top to fun top,body and paint,Not Done. I think Im just going to make the rest of the exhaust.Will run it down the right side of prop shaft,cross over in front of the fuel tank and exit at the stock position with a muffler.Or maybe just go thru a cherry bomb and exit in front of the right rear tire,What do you think?

Got it running tonight,House has the beautiful smell of fresh engine braking in.Good oil psi,lifters quieted right up and cooling fan cycles,what more could a guy ask for.Not sure about the cam but ram engines gave me one that is set up to use with the higher compression and dual port heads.I built everything to their specs since they know these engines better than anyone. tomorrow its time to gut the interior including the whole dash to repair a rusted out windshield frame (the only rust on the brat) and cut the roof off so I can install a T-Top roof.

Sounds good man!

Im up to making the exhaust on my dual port EA81. I made the head pipe equal lengths 30" to a collector with 1 7/8 ID pipe. Started it for a few seconds just to wake my neighbor up. It would save me time if I could just use the factory intermediate pipe but does anyone know the diameter off hand? I guess the best diameter for performance is 1 7/8 ID?? I will have to get updates pictures posted tonight of my progress. Thanks

Possibly a restricted/clogged core.Pull hose and run your garden hose thru it to test flow.If restricted,try some muratic acid from the plumbing store and pump thru. flush real good with fresh water after that. Good luck and let us know the outcome

In that picture I had the strut lift blocks on backwards.I have corrected this since.Im sure once the rest of the engine and trans is in it will compress the susp giving me less pos. camber. I reversed the blocks but now there is another problem,the top of the strut coil spring seat is rubbing the inner fender well.I guess I will just hammer out some clearance,kind of sucks cause everything is painted up nice in the well.

ya! Ram did the machine shop work.The block is punched .030 over and dowel pins were added to the case halves.They did the heads as well and made the intake.I assembled and painted everything (por-15 engine enamel) I will post more pics of the engine in its early stages. Thanks for all the nice comments fellas!

i agree,should be fine to drive as long as the axle isnt swinging around and binding up your steering or anything. maybe rip off whats left of it.

Real nice job! Did you buy the 2 head pipes or bend them yourself ?

WARNING LONG READ! Since we are on the tough engine subject,heres one. Im big into atv'ing and use my brat to transport and ride all over the place.One time last year heading out to hazleton,pa to ride I noticed my temp gauge pinned in the red. I pulled over popped the hood and everything appeared normal,thought it was a sending unit problem. Back on the road for another 50 miles to my riding destination (gauge still pinned) Rode my Quad all day,packed up around 5:00 pm and headed home,gauge went right up to red again.Pulled over for gas,went in and paid,and when I went back out to the brat there was a sea of coolant under my brat,UH OH,guess it wasnt a sender problem.It boiled over. So I filled the coolant and headed home which was 100 miles away. Now Im going exit to exit with my brat boiling over.Another 25 miles of this I made it to a walmart in wilkes-barre pa.At this point the boiling coolant thru the heater core was making the whole dash shake.Bought a flashlite and a tube of silicone in walmart. Removed my t-stat in the parking lot and used the silicone to make a gasket,filled it and drove home with no further problems.Put a new stat in the next day and its been fine since,gets me to work every day. I have been a wrench for 13 years and never seen an engine withstand that much overheating without blowing a head gasket or just out right cooking the whole engine. Long live the EA-81!

small world isnt it. Some day I would like to get a gen 1 brat,they are so cool looking.

I live at the very most northwest corner of nj (wantage) Im using pk davis's 4/3" lift. Ram engines did the machine shop work on the block and heads and I assembled everything. Feel free to stop be one night or weekend

What up guys,been away from my subi project almost a year,so darn busy.started to make progress again,put some photos up,whats everyone think? Shooting to complete it by spring time LOL! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?ppuser=9704&cat=500

yea ,your probably right, was just wondering if someone found a bullet proof sealant to prevent this.Im going to cry when I see oil seeping onto the shiney little block

Got my ea81 block back from ram performance,looks sweet. time to assemble.looking for the best possible sealer I can use between the engine case halves. I dont want to see a drop of oil anywhere once this thing is done. ram engines installed extra dowel pins in the case so It probably has a better chance of not leaking but was looking for first hand advice on a good sealer.thanks

Sounds good but this ones already apart in the garage.This ones from southern california via ebay. You can flip it over and have dinner on the floor pans its so clean.thanks for the offer.

My brat project has a hard top,probably why I picked it up so cheap.have a parts car with the t-tops.has anyone done this conversion?wheres the best place to cut.the base of the front a pillars looks good but the rear doesnt leave you any easy spot to cut. Update... engine block on its way to ram to get bored .020 over and case pinned.should have 4/3 lift in 2 weeks

got in touch with PK finally,thanks to this message board ,Lift is on the way.