asavage

14.7 = atmospheric pressure at sea level 14.6 = stoichiometric ratio of gasoline to air I have been giving this considerable thought recently. In closed-loop mode, the ECU will generally attempt to keep the mixture close to its calibration. Changing the fuel pressure would be at least partly compensated by the O2 feedback. I've confirmed this empirically on my own SPFI system. However, if you fool the ECU into thinking the engine is not up to temp yet, but keep it above the open-loop/closed-loop breakover point, I think that you could convince the ECU to fatten up the mixture -- leaving aside whether this is desireable. This is all speculation on my part, of course. The coolant temp sensor operates over a range of about 6k to 100 ohms. The only stated reference points I'm aware of are two: [edited to reflect new info from Chilton's} 14°F = 7-11.5k 68°F = 2-3k 122°F = 700-1000 Want richer? Wire a linear-taper potentiometer in series with the coolant temp sensor, mount it on the dash, dial in (from zero to n) more resistance, and the ECU thinks the engine is colder than it actually is. Of course, this may affect the IAC setting the idle speed as well, but I'm thinking about doing it for diagnostic purposes only, so I don't really care about the idle speed. (I did this as a teenager to my Mom's early FI Volvo 145 -- Bosch K-Jetronic, I think it was. Worked pretty well. Idle speed was not under computer control on that system, though.) Want leaner? Wire a pot in parallel with the coolant temp sensor, dial out (from max toward zero) to lean. The ECU thinks the engine is real warm, and the air will be less dense, so it'll reduce the amount of fuel to compensate the mixture. I think. On measuring A/F: you have to measure before the cat(s). Hard to do. As I mentioned in another post, the O2 sensors that we have are not designed to output a relative A/F ratio: they monitor the oxygen level in the exhaust stream, and toggle their output to an OFF/ON state when the level of oxygen attains or falls below a certain threshold. The ECU takes that ON or OFF and (combined with other inputs) tailors the ignition timing and injector ON pulse width to try to keep the O2 sensor "crossing" that point a number of times per some unit of time. Think of a old-time points dwell meter (which is a tool that was actually used for working with early feedback carbs in systems that used the first automotive O2 sensors). Also, the stoichiometric ratio is a theoretical number only. At least on older, carbed rigs, they never ran that lean: couldn't get efficient enough atomization->vaporization of the liquid fuel to burn reliably at that ratio. Typical mix ratios in, say, the 60's were closer to 12.5:1, on up to maybe a bit over 13:1 (IIRC; it's been a long time since I needed to remember those numbers). Until about 1970, nobody was seriously trying to get 14.6 (stoichiometric for gasoline) because of technical problems getting the existing fuel delivery systems to meter that finely over the entire range of operating conditions. Stationary plants, that's a different story.) I don't know if this is still true of today's systems. The state of production FI systems is quite a bit beyond the stuff I learned way back when. Gaseous fuels such as LPG and CNG vehicles, for example, can run at up to and over stoichiometric in controlled situations, and work fine, but there is no issue of vaporization with a gas, as opposed to a liquid, fuel.

There is a reset procedure for that Service light on the 850 Volvo, that can be performed without any special tools. It's involved but not impossible. I've got it in a reference manual somewhere, but the procedure may be the same as Mr. Barron's post. It's similar, at least (I recall reading the procedure and shaking my head).

I've a '93 Loyale Wgn, 3AT and 4WD, and its front diff whines pretty loudly, but no extra vibs. Accel whine only, quiet on coast and decel. Also, the oil in the diff was the darkest I've ever seen in a Subaru, remarkably so. I've changed it twice in 1000 miles, and it looks good now. I assume that sometime in the future I'll have to replace the front diff., but it's only noise for now. [later] Oh, and I did the AT flush the day I bought it, ran 14 quarts through it, though the oil looked pretty decent. Had a devil of a time getting the correct pan gasket, took me three days -- the ATP pan chart has an incorrect aspect ratio shown for our ATs. Check the code(s)! I know, you have to pull the six or eight screws to get to the O2 sensor monitor LED, but that's the only way you're gonna know if it's a bad Purge Control Solenoid (relatively cheap), and O2 sensor fault (a little more money), or a MAF or TPS fault (a lot more money).

I'm not an expert, but I recall reading one Daniel Stern, of Stern Lighting (automotive lighting consultant) posted in a MB forum a couple years ago, on the trendy blue bulbs. Apparently, reflected blue light is one of the hardest wavelengths that humans can use to distinguish detail, and is also the most "glarey". Sorry I can't be more specific, I can't find the reference right now, and it was several years ago when I read this. The marketting trend has been to market what sells, and blue bulbs appeal to the high-end-wannabe crowd. Again, this is just my opinion. The OEM stuff is largely well engineered; the aftermarket is largely crafted to do one thing well: sell bulbs.

GD, IIRC, that light isn't to remind you to replace the EGR valve, it's to remind you to remove and clean it (but I can't recall for sure). And as much of the passage behind it as you can reach. I find a coathanger is sometimes handy. Helps to keep the pinging to a minimum.

I priced that hose for an '86 turbo, and it was something like $30 from the dealer. Not too bad. It's not the temperature that'll kill heater hose, it's the constant exposure to oil. Heater hose swells and rots quite quickly when oil is on the inside -- the exteriour jacket is oil-resistant, but the inner isn't. FI engines will usually read pretty close to zero pressure at WOT. Carb'd engines won't: they require a venturi diameter that is a lower ratio of venturi dia. to plenum dia. in order to get decent low-speed aspiration of fuel. I know of at least two diesel engines that utilize intake throttles, one of which absolutely requires manifold vacuum to operate: all MB diesels from the 220D series and older. Their injection pumps utilize an aneroid (bellows) connected to the intake manifold, to vary injection stroke. Your foot controls a throttle butterfly just as if it was a carb'd engine. Idles quietly, too (for the period). The other one I know about is the LD28 Nissan diesel, which uses an intake throttle plate under computer control, to enhance EGR operation and provide a quiet idle. Brian, I agree with everyone else: plumb the vac/boost gauge (an old fuel pump pressure tester?) to the engine side of throttle body. I don't recall the turbo plumbing arrangements, but generically the power brake booster line is a good place: plenty of cross-section area so the gauge can get a decent signal.

I bought Beck-Arnley ones for my (non-Turbo) '93 EA82 024-1008 ~$50 ($74 list) 024-1046 ~$48 ($69 list) The driver's side belt also has an idler, as well as a tensioner. I bought the bearing only and replaced it myself (using a couple of big sockets and a bench vise). I don't have the generic brg number here, but I bought a BCA brand brg, their No. 203SS, and it fit perfectly. BTW, the A/C idler bearing is a BCA 202FF

http://www.car-part.com/ Lists about nine of them, $75 to $125 But a dead ECU is pretty rare. Get it to tell you the codes, and it'll often send you right to the bad part. http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29dd8b7a4f46.89471656/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f53a13f7c7491.41102012.art

Did you receive my email last night?

Properly groomed, cats do not smell. Cat doors are your friend; no kitty litter (except for under your car) Rodents and rice-stealing critters are banished by hungry cats.

There are at least four broad classes of auto coolant. Of these, the "American" green stuff is using a silicate base for corrosion protection, and the "American" orange (Dex-Cool compatible) is using organic acids for corrosion protection -- is that non-intuitive, or what? Do not mix silicate and organic acids corrosion protection: the result is far less corrosion protection than either alone. Then there is the pink stuff spec'd for Chysler, and the Zerex G02(?) for '02-on Fords (yellow), that isn't compatible with the Prestone "Gold" stuff . . . and on and on. Oh, as an aside: I have a printout of an article from somewhere on the 'net here, that implies that it isn't a good idea to use organic acid based coolants in systems that are using a copper/brass radiator or heater core. Newer cars seem to all use aluminum radiators etc. so I guess that's what they mean. So, no Dex-cool for our old Soobs. Flushing the old stuff out every two years/30k miles is about the best thing you can do for it, regardless of what water you're using -- though I use plain old distilled water myself. If you ever do a draw test (syringe it from the radiator, put it into a glass jar), you know how crappy the stuff looks after three years, and the green stuff will be distinctly brown after two years. Brown = rust.

Something I haven't seen mentioned yet in this thread: oil is a hydrocarbon. You put enough of it down the exhaust, add some heat and oxygen, and kiss your cats goodbye. There's even a TSB on something I worked on recently that mentioned this -- Cadillac Northstar? Passat? Can't recall. IOW, after fixing the oil consumption problem, you'll want to evaluate your cats to see if they still flow OK.

I completely agree. Springs are 'way too dangerous to fool around with.

AllData is specific for my '93: the "Read mem" connector is under the dash. Bollocks. I read the wiring diagram color code, then found them right next to the green D-check connectors, next to the fuel filter. Snap-On's manual for their scantool is ambivalent, it shows both locations, but the Subaru section has about nine different location diagrams for various models and years.

Really? You've seen this happen on a street Soob?

Seems to me that I've been under the passenger side dash of a couple of old Brats and found some plastic protrusion broken off. Some kind of a pivot or cable clamp or lever clamp or something, looked impossible to fix. It's been about a decade since I saw that last one like that. I recall going to the Portland Foster Road U-Pull-It and going through every Brat in the yard (in about 1989) and not finding a single one that was in good condition. Trying to help out a friend (hello, Mark Overholser!) from school.

I have a '93 Loyale 4WD, and the pushbutton 4WD will engage fine when I've got it on a lift (all four wheels off the ground. I have no idea how the system works, though, never needed to figure it out. I push the red button, the dash ideogram lights, and the rear wheels begin to spin with the fronts. Never hear a thing, unless I've got the fronts spinning when I push the button (when up on the rack!).

Maybe it's just me, but I would not lay out cash for a rig that sounds as you describe, unless I knew for certain it was a minor thing, or priced like the engine is bad. Sound is a primary diagnostic tool, don't discount it.

I bought mine at WestBay Auto parts, a small (eight store) regional chain in Kitsap county and Olympic Peninsula areas. http://www.westbayautoparts.com/ But a lot of stores carry the Dorman products line. And, of course, a lot of different mfgrs offer metric studs. I couldn't find one of my old ones, I must have actually cleaned up after that job But 1.25" long is pretty close. You can look up that part number: http://208.233.99.171/randb/buyerbrowse.epc?reset=ALL&categories=%20&category1=Threaded%20Metric%20Fasteners That URL gets redirected to one with a cookie. Then, ignore the products listed, and from the red nav bar, choose "Part Number Search" and next page, type in "675-359". It'll tell you: Item Number: 675-359 Description: Double-Ended Studs Class 8.8 Brand: SHOULDER Application: 7mm Attributes: A : Thread Size M10-1.25 : A Thread Length : 21mm B : Thread Size M10-1.25 : B Thread Length : 13mm So, it'll tell you the thread lengths but not the overall length. Well, that's a computer for you.

Tubing wrench? You can cut a slot from an old box-end wrench in a pinch. But six-point is better.

Actually, changing that has been up for a vote a couple of times, and it's always been voted down (I lived there for a decade). I had two diesel rigs filled with unleaded, almost exactly a year apart. The first one, the station's insurance co. had it fixed (~$2,400). The second time, they bought the car.:madder: And don't even get me started about my motorcycles.

Well, that's one misteak I won't repeat. While dbl-checking the timing belts alignment on my '93 EA82, I found that I could take off the driver's side cam belt cover fairly easily, I couldn't get it back on until I removed the A/C belt idler. I've done it before, and it's a clever design. This time, however, I accidentally discovered how the moveable lower stud works -- because I inadvertantly had it fall out. If you swing the idler all the way loose (up), then take off the long 12mm hex nut, if you're not carefull, the moveable stud will fall out the back of the slotted bracket. And it's not fun to get back in. In any other position, the stud will not come out of the slot, through the use an ingenious necked stud.

http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29dd8b798ae3.96104436/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c61f742ce63.72352405.art and http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=35512#post35512 It's 10mm x 1.25 I didn't measure the length, because I took a sample in to the parts store. It's approx. 1.25" long overall. I may have one of the old ones in a box somewhere, if you need an exact measurement. My receipt says "DOR 675-359" which is a Dorman part number (the orange metal cabinets you see in many parts stores are Dorman). My parts store only had two in stock, and had to order the third one I needed. The helicoil set I had available, as well as the drill bit. Both are odd sizes. I disagree with something in the USRM article: I did not need two inserts per hole, but then I was doing an EA82, not an EA81, so that may be the difference. Or, it may be that the author was using shorter inserts: they are available in many different lengths. Also, a gotcha: you can't leave ANY of an insert above flush when you're done: that's a big no-no. Running a too-short insert in below flush is OK, though, but there's no advantage (unless you're ganging up inserts, like the USRM article's author). I had only one length of inserts available to me. In the past, I've carefully shortened inserts before inserting them. This time, I drilled the holes a tad deeper (about 1/8"), thinking that would be enough to run in the longer inserts, and then I ran the Helicoil tap to the very bottom (top? ) of the holes, and on two of the inserts, they still hung out of the holes about 1/2 turn. I used a Dremel tool to carefully cut into the side of the remaining insert, just below flush, then grabbed that last half-coil with needlenose and bent in back and forth a half-dozen times, breaking it off. Works fine. It's OK if the Dremel stone notches the head a little, it's not a sealing surface. Alternatively, you could buy shorter inserts, or pre-cut them one coil shorter, which is what I would probably do, now that I know how close they are to (not quite) fitting in length. I can get the size of the inserts I used, if you want. They're the default size in the kit, but our kit is probably several years old, and Helicoil may have changed the default size they supply. The Helicoil kits do not come with the drill bit that you need. You will also want to use a drill angle adapter to keep the drill motor perpendicular to the head, or be very very careful when drilling the hole, to do it by sight and feel (which is what I did, because I couldn't put my hands on my drill angle adapter, it's in storage somewhere, I don't use it much). And one of my studs isn't quite square, but the holes in the exhaust flanges are generous, fortunately.

If you can drive "through" the noise, and it goes away above 3500, it's probably something like the exhaust hitting the body or a loose heat shield or broken bits in one of the catalytic converters rattling. If it continues to rattle/knock all the way up, I think that's bad.

Yup, meter doesn't move = "infinite" resistance = open circuit = bad, for a coil -- which is what is in a solenoid of this sort. No, zero = no resistance. This means that the electrical path you are testing is has too low resistance. For a coil, this usually means that the coil has shorted (overheated and melted) or been physically damaged (squished or run over). Just guessing, but I think you should try measuring that one again. Does your ohmmeter have various ohm scales? You might have it set to the "1k" or "1M" scale, both of which are too high, and both would give a reading very very close to zero. If you have a choice, use a lower scale. ====================== I disassembled my bad PCS solenoid today -- broke it, of course, but also learned how to take it apart differently next time. Both the EGR and PCS solenoids are normally open to vacuum, and the ECU sends juice to them to close them off. I'm going to check this tomorrow, when the EA82 is cold, but this implies that the true function of these solenoids is to inhibit EGR and PCS function when inappropriate, like before the engine is warmed up, or if it overheats or other abnormal conditions. My AllData reference states this exactly the opposite of reality. Figgurs.